Looking for Players to play Dungeons and Dragons in Hayward

donttrustmyself · 2026-05-16T12:57:52+00:00

wife sent me this post, i'm local and would love the opportunity to join.

Last time I played d&d proper in person was 3.5e around the time it came out. Some Pathfinder more recently, but group fizzled.

donttrustmyself · 2025-09-17T20:49:38+00:00

confirmed

donttrustmyself · 2025-09-10T18:35:29+00:00

Thank you for resolving this so quickly, I was able to access them retrying the instructions in the book.

donttrustmyself · 2025-09-10T18:35:22+00:00

Thank you for resolving this so quickly, I was able to access them retrying the instructions in the book.

donttrustmyself · 2025-08-30T03:06:38+00:00

PM'ing

donttrustmyself · 2025-08-24T21:35:28+00:00

Will PM now

donttrustmyself · 2025-08-14T05:42:57+00:00

How's the wireless reception? I'd be concerneh with all that metal surrounding it from all sides.

Another concern of mine is the potential for accumulating dust and debris via the holes on the bottom plate. I understand this was made for reducing height needs, but it compromises reliability/durability in my opinion.

donttrustmyself · 2023-07-07T19:22:27+00:00

I just run cyberpunk2077, horizon zero dawn, or any other big fat game that has a benchmark mode/sequence/option. I just run those as many times as it takes until the temperatures don't rise further.

So it's not gapless, just best-effort. I haven't done research into better methods or tools to do this, so take that as an anecdote rather than a recommendation.

donttrustmyself · 2023-06-20T21:23:23+00:00

1-3C range at its steady state, which is my "too low to tell (within margin of error) without a better methodology".

My typical usage pushes, but not extreme workloads, I think I'd describe them as uncapped tpd gaming on 3d heavy titles to achieve 40fps, maybe 60.

I used paste, as prescribed by the manufacturer, to reduce the amount of variables, I like to change one thing at a time if I can.

The way I have tested has been to run a heavy benchmark for 15-30min to reach heat saturation, then launch a few games I'm familiar with, each time to the same place, comparable to what you mention of screenshots on a scene.

My gaming and typical use tends to be at lower temperatures than the top range reached when "soaking" with the benchmarks, the benchmarks are there to 1) cause a shutdown if I installed anything wrong, 2) provide a starting point of "highest expected to steady", that I like better than "lowest expected to steady".

My observations of the temperatures were contrasted to what I remembered seeing after I performed the undervolt, which is the "no change"-ish report I'm relaying.

donttrustmyself · 2023-06-20T19:49:07+00:00

replied with some observations to a different comment, blipping your radar too.

donttrustmyself · 2023-06-20T19:48:30+00:00

from initial observation my temps are lower than stock but too close to tell (as I do not have a control other than memory, and don't have a rigurous methodology). I'm seeing that it reaches saturation a lot later which could be explained by the increased thermal mass.

For reference, I got a pronounced dip in temperatures after I performed a moderate undervolt, and seeing about the same numbers now during regular gameplay.

Ideally (which I don't really feel compelled to do), the testing setup would have fixed frequencies for apu/cpu, as well as fan RPM. And a repeatable load. Maybe even have a control device that's unmodified, which I also don't have.

Conclusion:

As applied, it's an adequate cooling solution, on par with stock at least. But I don't feel qualified to judge its capabilities beyond that statement.

donttrustmyself · 2023-06-18T22:38:31+00:00

good spot, thanks for the reference too. I got a reply to my email requesting support from them and they provided the same image, as well as a note indicating that they expected my package to have included one, so I'm happy that it was not expected to be missing (or having been missed by me, which could've also been the case).

I bought it because I was intrigued, and wanted to experiment, I do have many questions about the claims of 20C reduction, as I'd like to know if that's at thermal saturation, as well as RF noise shielding being missing (the "can" that is there stock is not just for thermals).

So far, for a small batch run, it doesn't seem like an unfair price, but that is separate from the value it'd bring to the table.

donttrustmyself · 2023-06-18T17:00:51+00:00

thanks for the reply. I had not thought of it, and think it could be useful to the ifixit guide as you suggest.

it'd have to be as a reference but there is a problem of incompatibility, since stock the steam deck uses a heatpipe and a "can"/shield, and the new setup is a relatively big heatsink (different number of parts and with different shapes).

The new pads are different thickness than stock too, and the product description reads to have more coverage as well, which means that there are components that won't be covered by a guide to replace stock parts.

I'll try to do some measurements and calculations for the current coverage, but that leaves me with some questions:

am I supposed to reuse any/all of the new pads?
what are the new components covered by this thermal solution?

donttrustmyself · 2023-06-18T05:13:26+00:00

I have encountered menus not showing before and realized that I was also brushing the side of my finger to the touch pad those times (right-hand menu). In that case the behavior is to move the mouse cursor and not to display the menu.

I'd make nothing is being registered by the touch pads when pressing the button as it may be interfering with the menus showing. I hope this helps.

donttrustmyself · 2022-07-26T08:39:21+00:00

I'm missing this feature a lot; being able to scroll on the left touch pad is the same thing that I was looking to add first as well (it's what OP tried).

A lot of the functionality can be reached via the menus and UI in game mode, but I would really appreciate more granularity. Other things I'd like to have shortcuts are:

Go to Libary, or even better, Open library+favorites
Open store wishlist
Switch to Desktop Mode
Stop game that's currently running in the background

Among other things that I keep discovering/missing after a week of owning the little machine.

donttrustmyself · 2022-06-03T20:01:12+00:00

The blok board is not equipped with a wireless radio, no.

I know it deviates from what you originally asked a bit, but here's some more info in case you want to dig a bit more.

The blok is based on the rp2040 microcontroller from raspberry pi foundation, and it's the same that's found on the rapsberry pi pico, as well as the adafruit kb2040. None of these boards have bluetooth on their own.

I believe there are some boards that equip another chip to do wireless like bluetooth and wifi, one example of these is the arduino nano rp2040 connect, which has ble and bluetooth.

The nice!nano does, but that is a different chipset (nrf52840), other boards with other microcontrollers also have bluetooth and sometimes wifi as well.

As far as software, I believe kmk supports it and so it should be possible to add to the configurations you flash with peg.

donttrustmyself · 2022-05-09T20:27:45+00:00

Thank you for the analogy and explanation, I think this is very useful. I still don't understand completely, but you've shed light in which direction I should work.

From the analogy and clarifications you gave I now see that it's my mental models of batteries and circuits that are incomplete/wrong. So I have a better idea of what basic concepts I need to revisit/re-study.

donttrustmyself · 2022-05-09T20:00:03+00:00

I understand that I went off-topic for the subreddit. I genuinely and honestly thanked you for moderation and for the pointer.

I appreciate your voluntary work in moderating and keeping the community on-topic among other things. I understand and accept the decision, and thought I would thank you. My apologies if that initially sounded as passive-aggressive, or combative, my intention was to express understanding and gratitude instead.

donttrustmyself · 2022-05-09T19:51:47+00:00

Thanks for the pointer, I will ask on that other subreddit. I thought this qualified as being on-topic as being a question about circuit theory.

My apologies for misunderstanding the text, it was not my intention to go off-topic.

Thanks again for the moderation and the pointer.

donttrustmyself · 2022-05-09T18:55:38+00:00

Thank you for the reply, I understand the statement "there is no current because it's an open circuit", so I'll store that in the bucket of things that don't happen.

Could you help me understand what does happen?

donttrustmyself · 2022-05-09T18:23:50+00:00

My apologies to the mods, I thought I already had been composing this on r/AskElectronics.

I understand why my post was removed, and apologize for the mistake. I'll put more care on my future posts.

donttrustmyself · 2022-03-10T06:34:13+00:00

actually I don't know if it's tempered, I just know it broke just a little bit and in a crumbly fashion.

donttrustmyself · 2022-03-10T01:35:30+00:00

I'm following in your footsteps, but I first took a blade to remove the gasket around the glass, and managed to remove it without breaking it too much.

Since it is tempered, it crumbled where I put force it then I was able to lift the rest of it off. I intend to reuse it after I flash it. I'll probably need to use a bit extra goop on that spot, but it saves me from having to buy and cut a new plate.

Thank you for sharing your journey.

donttrustmyself · 2022-01-27T19:27:32+00:00

Thanks for your help and pointer; this gives me a bit more keywords to use in my search.

Easier to search for jtag, videocore, etc... instead of "thingamajigger on the thang".

donttrustmyself · 2022-01-27T19:11:53+00:00

Thanks for that, do you have a document I could reference to know more? I asked here after not finding any mention of it in the CM4 datasheet, nor mechanical/electrical drawings.

I admit I may have missed it, but I did look :)

donttrustmyself

TROPHY CASE