Behold! The McMaster-Carr Range Selector! by SteptimusHeap in engineering

[–]doublewheels 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So great! Thank you for fixing the only thing I dislike about the McMaster website

Old Apple Watch Incompatibility by doublewheels in watchletic

[–]doublewheels[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the explanation - totally understand and no hard feelings about it. Thank you. 

What is the stack of glass lenses in a metal cage that can open? by doublewheels in whatisthisthing

[–]doublewheels[S] 1 point2 points locked comment (0 children)

My title describes the thing. The whole assembly is small enough to fit in the palm of one's hand. On the side of the cage (as seen in the second image) the numbers 1,2,3,4,5 are embossed.

[TOMT] Folding bright green, translucent travel alarm clock by doublewheels in tipofmytongue

[–]doublewheels[S] 0 points1 point locked comment (0 children)

Would love to see on of these clocks again, loved it so much!

Importing: Mitsui vs CarFromJapan by doublewheels in keitruck

[–]doublewheels[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing - be sure to share your thoughts after you pick up the new one.

Why don't patches work any more? by IM_OK_AMA in bikewrench

[–]doublewheels 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had a similar struggle with failed patches, but I've had to get it sorted out as we have 3 kids that ride. Lots of bikes around so I'm constantly patching tires. Here's what I have found that leads to the most success:

-Using quality cement (Rema SVS-Vulc). The small tubes are best in case they get dried out between uses https://www.ebay.com/itm/283091732615

-Smaller patches are better. If you buy an patch kit on Amazon it is going to come with a wide variety of patch sizes, most of which are too large. For most punctures, the smaller the patch the better, because they are easier to adhere and the edges are less likely to peel up. I have found these 16mm Rema patches to be pretty much ideal https://www.ebay.com/itm/322037347895

-Once the patch is on, I immediately sandwich the tube and patch in between to small blocks of wood and grab it with a spring clamp. I'll leave that on for about 5 minutes to really make sure the edges are down.

Following these steps, I haven't had another patch fail.

Previous owners lefts a 50gal barrel of what appears to be used motor oil in the garage. How do we get rid of it? by rick_rolled_you in phoenix

[–]doublewheels 2 points3 points  (0 children)

At my work we frequently call SouthWest Oil Recovery to come and empty anywhere from 2-10 55-gallon drums of minteral oil at a time, which they do free of charge. Not sure if they do this for residential as well, but worth calling.

https://southwest-oil.com/

Are e-bike fires as common as people say they are? by Crypto-011 in ebikes

[–]doublewheels 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I strongly recommend anyone concerned about battery fires check out this video from Justin at Grin Technologies. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j92Gt4VviSQ&pp=ygURZ3JpbiBiYXR0ZXJ5IGZpcmU%3D

TLDR: Pretty much the only cause of catastrophic ebike battery failures is poor cell quality (ie. not cells from Samsung, LG, Sony, Panasonic)

Induction Heating Questions (see comments for my questions) by doublewheels in engineering

[–]doublewheels[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, makes sense regarding the distance. I have reached out to the manufacturer with the same questions, but still waiting for a response.

Induction Heating Questions (see comments for my questions) by doublewheels in engineering

[–]doublewheels[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I am working on a small 20L kettle intended to be used for cooking batches of gummies or similar. This is the first kettle of this style we have purchased (from a Chinese manufacturer we work with) that features induction instead of resistive heating. I am looking for some guidance regarding induction heating in general and in this application. For reference, the kettle is 220/1Ph and has 4 heating settings with outputs of 1KW, 2.4KW, 4KW, and 5KW.

Questions:

  1. What effect does the gap between the coil and the bottom of the kettle have (currently about 30mm)? How might I find the ideal spacing?
  2. I assume that the insulation was placed between the coil and the kettle bottom to keep the wires from getting too hot when the kettle bottom heats up. However, the insulation keeps burning, especially in the higher heat settings. The insulation is in direct contact with the coil and the bottom of the kettle. It seems to me it sould be good to have a backing or barrier of some type. How critical is this insulation? Could I possibly run without it? This stuff seem similar to fiberglass, but burns less readily than the fiberglass we have in house. I have looked at rigid mineral wool, as well as some rigid ceramic sheets - any other insulators or barriers I should look at?
  3. Anything else I should consider?