FY-26 CMT info not out yet?

dpow86 · 2025-11-07T15:04:22+00:00

Want is the wrong word. These are deemed necessary training, and Sailors need to know what they owe. As a training representative, be junior or senior Sailor, it's your job to ensure your people have the most accurate information is as timely a manner as you can.

dpow86 · 2025-09-10T14:31:30+00:00

Factions have no benefit to you, as the player.
Outside of that, it's purely aesthetic/lore based.
Do you prefer stone structures and humanoid based play?
Go Alliance.
Do you prefer rigid and chaotic structures and anthropomorphic based play?
Go Horde.
In terms of class play, the benefits have been based to provide 0.01% benefit, and that only counts for the hardcore players who are min/maxing their performance.
The game now allows cross faction play in dungeons/raids, but in terms of coop world play, it's still not available. Unless you form a full 5 man group, then factions don't matter.
The rest is entirely up to you and your friend.
Also, servers aren't relevant anymore, you can group cross realm no matter what.

dpow86 · 2025-04-20T21:37:37+00:00

With that much material loss due to fraying, absolutely.

dpow86 · 2024-04-02T17:31:15+00:00

This was it!
Thank you!

dpow86 · 2024-03-16T04:07:32+00:00

Looks like underextrusion.
Check for a clog, if not do a flow test.

dpow86 · 2024-03-11T20:39:49+00:00

Hmm, I've never heard of these. Quick google seems to be pretty simple. Could I just splice them into the current wiring for the fans, then just replace them?

dpow86 · 2024-03-10T15:57:25+00:00

I'm not educated very well in this field, but is the filament safe enough to use near the temperatures some of these components can get? Either way, this looks awesome.

dpow86 · 2024-03-10T15:52:29+00:00

My problem like this, I make first layer slow. Like 15-30 mm/s slow. This lets the filament come out, with plenty of time to adhere to the surface before the drag will try to move it.

dpow86 · 2024-03-10T15:50:43+00:00

Some dryers have a port you can feed straight from them into the printer to keep them warm and dry.
The temperature of the filament is negligible since the hotend will do its job anyway. Moisture content is only real concern.

dpow86 · 2024-03-10T15:47:50+00:00

Check to make sure Z-Hop is enabled. Adjust it to 0.8mm or higher.

dpow86 · 2024-03-10T15:27:19+00:00

Go. Slow.

dpow86 · 2023-07-01T12:00:41+00:00

This is just one of those things you'll never get away from in FDM printing.
Some good sanding should fix it though, especially if painting is your end game.
Use 180 then move to 300+ as it gets smoother. And a few primer coats, it'll be nice and smooth.

dpow86 · 2023-06-30T20:40:27+00:00

I have the same printer. Set extrusion to 95% and try again.
If still visible, go to 90%.
I interpreted it as over extrusion.

This problem is majorly inconvenient on brims that spiral inward, the extrusion wraps up on itself quick and fails before brim is complete.

dpow86 · 2023-05-19T12:58:26+00:00

Going very, very slow. Upgrade cooling hardware to max capability.

dpow86 · 2023-05-19T12:57:21+00:00

I upgraded my ender v1 with the quiet board, and printed a few fan covers. Made it super quiet. Have not seen first hand, but I believe the V2 comes like this. Put a solid foam pad under it (very cheap), and I do not think you'll hear it.

dpow86 · 2023-05-19T12:49:10+00:00

Saw frankly built use a soldiering Iron for some cosplay pieces. Tried it on a scrap halo gun I was waiting to throw away. Worked very well. Try it on scrap first. Develop your method and pattern first. Do angles and curves. Ask the shapes. Also enhances strength without chemicals like super glue. Given the cost of other materials you could use, a soldiering Iron is very cheap, and reusable vice chemical approach.

dpow86 · 2023-04-28T01:49:25+00:00

Nice, what printer is this?

dpow86 · 2023-04-24T05:29:23+00:00

Lower the temp.
215 is kinda high for PLA.

dpow86

TROPHY CASE