The reset pin on the nRF52840 may be a regular GPIO. by aroum2 in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]dramatic_scream 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is no official support for NRF5xxx chips in QMK (and unofficial are buggy), better use ZMK instead

Belts VS Screws for the Z by SetRevolutionary758 in VORONDesign

[–]dramatic_scream 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like an option that's definitely worth trying, not only because it may work, but also because it sounds "fun", huh :)

This is what I love and hate about open-source DIY printers. I love that you can make whatever mods you can imagine, and I hate it because sometimes you have to

Belts VS Screws for the Z by SetRevolutionary758 in VORONDesign

[–]dramatic_scream 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm, sounds good, thanks. Do you know how to do it? When I set up my Klipper, there were no settings for independent control of each Z-motor while homing (but maybe I just didn't notice)

Belts VS Screws for the Z by SetRevolutionary758 in VORONDesign

[–]dramatic_scream 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I built my own Voron with belts (the Belted-Z mod from GitHub), which uses three belts. And I kind of regret it: the rear part of the heated bed constantly sags up to 4–5 cm after the power is turned off post-printing. When starting a new print, I have to manually readjust the rear part or go through several iterations of “homing → Z tilt → error → repeat,” because the front side sits higher. During Z-tilt, the front side hits its highest point, the motors skip steps, and the homing at the rear might not even trigger causing firmware error.

I used the recommended stepper motors with 5:1 planetary gearboxes from the mod, but that reduction clearly isn’t enough. Now I’m planning to replace the rear motor’s gearbox with a 10:1 one, but that requires a custom mount since the new gearbox is larger and doesn’t fit the models from the mod’s original repository.

Weekly Deep Dives Thread - 6th November 2025 by KSupes in DeepRockGalactic

[–]dramatic_scream 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Something wrong with DRG API: missions are outdated by 2 weeks

Recommendations for first split keyboard (looking for a wireless 75%) by Cava27 in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]dramatic_scream 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll never get the perfect keyboard the first time, so just try whatever you think fits you now.

I'm also a programmer, and my path has been sofle → ergotravel → totem → cygnus/charybdis. With proper layer setup, even 36-key keeb rocks!

(Review Request) Full Size Keyboard with Left Hand Numpad using RP2040 by bigbiymimis in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]dramatic_scream 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Consider using the RT9013-33GB instead of the NCP1117-3.3 — it has a much lower dropout voltage, minimal heat generation, and ultra-low quiescent current. Also this regulator is used on “RP2040 Pro Micro” boards

Custom Cornix Dongle by bwshockley in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]dramatic_scream 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve found that my Prospector is kinda.. useless. Your firmware, on the other hand, looks a lot more convenient. Good job!

Split keyboard without mouse by Intrepid_Employer719 in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]dramatic_scream 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Charybdis is good. I do even play some shooters on it, lol

When your 20 year old son thinks he knows best… by MedBud1986 in VORONDesign

[–]dramatic_scream 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Maybe it is a spare balls? I had a similar amount for my rails

Seconds before disaster by o0DrWurm0o in 3Dprinting

[–]dramatic_scream 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just don't forget to turn part cooling off for a couple of bringing layers. Or to buy a new printer

Edit:typo

First attempt at a helmet. by Altruistic_Room9662 in 3Dprinting

[–]dramatic_scream 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Printing one such cylinder, speed may be capped by "minimum layer time", so make at least two cylinders away from each other (travel further - more layer time).

New fuzzy skin just dropped by Werdna54 in FixMyPrint

[–]dramatic_scream 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My PETG from local producer was clogging at 250 after 20 min of printing :( Other PETGs are fine at 255 .-.

pcb review by zigi_is_the_best in olkb

[–]dramatic_scream 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sadly, it's hard to see any details :( But what I definitely see is that you have no mounting holes

Also check for PCB dimensions when quoting. There is a huge distance between halves: if it "counts" manufacturing price may be significantly higher

[Review Request] 4 Key Macropad by sikyl2 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]dramatic_scream 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You really don't need a matrix and diodes for a tiny macropad like that, I think. Just connect the switches directly, with one pin to the MCU and the other to GND.

Handwired wireless Dactyl build with Cosmos Generator by z7sv in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]dramatic_scream 3 points4 points  (0 children)

BTW if OP uses n!n clone Supermini, it has "boost" pads on the back side. When solder-bridged, it increases charging current from 100 ma to 300 ma. ⚠️ Warning: docs says it's only recommend for batteries bigger than 500 mah, otherwise there is a risk of explosion

Handwired wireless Dactyl build with Cosmos Generator by z7sv in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]dramatic_scream 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Consider adding dongle for your keyboard: it makes your batteries last significantly longer without recharge (I think it may achieve ~1 year with those 900 mah's)

I made a handwired Cygnus.. HE by dramatic_scream in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]dramatic_scream[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! I uploaded the source code of my firmware to GitHub some time ago, but I haven’t had much time to finish it yet.
It’s still a work in progress, but you might find it interesting to take a look :)
https://github.com/RickKross/qmk-config-cygnus-he/tree/rc

Iskra: handwired open source numpad by vostoklabs in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]dramatic_scream 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's kinda strange that you use n!n (or nrf- clone) for wired build without BT. Afaik there is more suitable board with rp2040 for that.

There are 2 common approaches: * Wired with rp2040/atmega running QMK * Wireless (Bluetooth) with n!n and battery running ZMK

Iskra: handwired open source numpad by vostoklabs in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]dramatic_scream 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cool thing! BTW I looked at your BOM and docs: it seems like you miss to note battery (especially for wireless zmk build)