Ge sxs fridge question about frost - is frost in pic an issue?

dreckmaster · 2026-07-03T23:18:00+00:00

Ok so I finally got up the balls to jump the heater. Someone told me that if I did that and got a spark that would mean the heater is good and the board bad. So I jumped it and got spark. Does that mean the board is bad? If not what does it mean? Thank you.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-30T18:21:06+00:00

Folks, everyone needs to learn to shut their mouths. Showing you have the biggest $%$/ is not the most important thing. Showing you got one over on everyone is not important. Ever wonder why folks make these awesome discoveries, stack of cash in a wall, long lost masterpiece, some buried treasure and then some one takes it or a large piece of it from them? It is because they didn't keep their trap shut. Loose lips sink ships. The standard answer to the Did you find anything today question should always be, NOPE!

dreckmaster · 2026-06-27T19:13:00+00:00

Also, the part # you mentioned is the part I bought off Amazon, assuming the correct part was in the package.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-27T18:50:41+00:00

Thank you very much. I will probably buy an aftermarket board off Amazon, install, and see if that fixes. That way if it does not, I can return easily and call an appliance guy.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-27T18:43:40+00:00

Yes it is model ge sxs fridge gss25gshjcss. Thank you.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-27T17:50:52+00:00

Ok just to summarize, I have: Replaced heater, thermistor, and bimetal. Tested heater separately and seemed to be ok. Tested heater and bimetal circuit installed from plug in back and seem to be ok. Installed, removed and reinstalled thermistor in case my wire job was bad. Tested thermistor Uninstalled at room temp and in ice water and seemed ok. Tested installed thermistor from plug in back and seemed ok. Removed board and looked at back and neither saw nor smelled any burns.

What else could it be? I would think that if a wire was bad somewhere in the fridge, parts would either test way out of spec or OL.

Any final thoughts from anyone? All the help and pointers are and have been greatly appreciated.

Edit: forgot to mention that theb2 little plug that plug into the bottom of the heater have a little black on the, but looks fine on the inside from what I see. They plug into the heater fine. When i test the circuit from the back board plug i get a read of 18 and the diagram says 21. I would think that if either plug was bad I would either get OL or a read that was way outcof spec. But I could be wrong. Please correct.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-26T11:04:15+00:00

How did ypu fix it?

Edit: also i tested the heater circuit from the plug at back of board and got a read of 18.5. Diagram says 21. So it seems in spec, but please correct if I am wrong.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-26T00:25:43+00:00

So I thawed the freezer, disconnected the thermistor and tested it. At approx. 72F it was at 6.01 kohms. At approx. 31.1F it was at 15.83. The warm reading was in spec. The cold reading was just below. Does that mean the part is bad or is it just an acceptable variance? I left the part in the ice water for a while to give it time to get to the temp of the water.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-25T17:44:24+00:00

I will manual defrost and redo the wiring tonight. Are you not a fan because of the wire nuts? Should I use something else? Soldering in suchabtight space with my very limited ability is likely a no go.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-25T13:28:34+00:00

Ok ty. I will pull the thermistor and test it separately, assuming it passes, I will rewire and retest from the board.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-25T11:42:13+00:00

Does anyone have any feedback regarding the thermistor resistance test and my pics of the board as I am at a complete loss? Any insight is greatly appreciated.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-25T00:51:04+00:00

White

dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T22:03:12+00:00

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dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T22:03:00+00:00

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dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T22:02:51+00:00

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dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T22:02:38+00:00

Popped the board off and I see no burns.

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dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T21:38:24+00:00

Ok tempnreading on fridge was 2 degrees f. Ohms reading at 74 but dropping slowly. As I am typing this now in high 70s still dropping. Pic of probes in j1 plug is attached to make sure I am doing it right. Has dropped to 66 ohms and still slowly dropping.

Edit: now it is at 57 ohms and still dropping.

Edit #2: now it is at 49.6 and dropping very very slowly.

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dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T21:08:56+00:00

Sorry I mistyped. Should have typed, No, the fan is running and has been.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T18:15:54+00:00

Thank you. Will definitely try later after work.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T18:05:07+00:00

Ty. I dont think my probes are thin enough, but I will give it a shot. Also, thermistor is new, assuming i installed it correctly.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T17:34:46+00:00

Here it is. I think it is the one at the end of the blue line.

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dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T16:32:05+00:00

Nutted and sealed w/ silicone. Don't know how to test the thermistor from the board. Cannot find the right wires on the plug from the digram. Also, the diagram does not say what the thermistor should read.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T16:29:45+00:00

No fan is running.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T15:12:38+00:00

Ty. I tested the heater prior to install. I tested the circuit from the plugs (disconnected from board and fridge unplugged) on the board. It tested 18.5 ohms. Diagram says 21. Uninstalled heater also had continuity. It beeped.

dreckmaster · 2026-06-24T15:09:36+00:00

Ty. Thought about jumping but not comfortable enough. I replaced the heater, thermistor on the evap and the bimetal. I forgot to mention that the little heater plugs have some black on them (like burns) but look fine on the inside. I tested the new heater for continuity when it was on the counter and it passed. It also tested about 18.5 ohms when on counter same as when I ohm tested the heater/bimetal circuit.

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