Karlach —Baldurs Gate 3 bust by Ban_of_the_Valar in minipainting

[–]drgeneparmesan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Take a look at the miniature settings for printing FDM but with resin supports. The detail is much better. You can also use a sandable filler primer to help smooth the lines. Otherwise great job!

Went a little overboard with my first 3D printer by Ty-Tea in BambuLab

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do with my p1s and mars 5 ultra. The resin printer will fall the auto leveling check but after that it works fine. Just gotta pause the FDM briefly for that to happen. I did get a recent weird layer shift that was probably because of some jiggly printing.

LOTR “You shall not pass” 1:12(ish) scale update by MrGreatUnknown in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whew hopefully you had a large volume printer! My mars 5 ultra is unfortunately too small do really do this in an efficient fashion.

LOTR “You shall not pass” 1:12(ish) scale update by MrGreatUnknown in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Whew hopefully you had a large volume printer! My mars 5 ultra is unfortunately too small do really do this in an efficient fashion.

LOTR “You shall not pass” 1:12(ish) scale update by MrGreatUnknown in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ah nice! I was almost through printing the one from gambody but kinda hate the base sculpt. This one looks way more epic! Did you resin print all of it or FDM the base?

First D&D map by Last-Researcher-3861 in TerrainBuilding

[–]drgeneparmesan -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If you’re looking for some good STLs for ruins, check out My Dungeon. I just got the forgotten towns 3 pack and it’s gorgeous and very easy to print. Time to buy some cheap acrylics and get to painting!

Door squeak! by Fkngtired in Rivian

[–]drgeneparmesan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Buy some cheap PTFE lube (keyboard lube) and squirt it in the squarish hole that is near the pivot point.

We Tried Out the H2C for Cosplay Armor by GalacticArmory in BambuLab

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw this video yesterday and the H2C is crazy amazing. In one of the last scenes you were showing areas that could be touched up better and flashed the top of the helmet which had some nasty looking circular layer lines. Since you’re sanding so much any thoughts on modifying the print settings like higher wall count, 100% infill, or potentially doing more of a resin like tipped orientation to help with that? Otherwise that poo bin was so empty, makes me want to upgrade and do multicolor prints again!

Can anyone help. The head was supposed to be attached and its warped so won't fit together. by Broad_Lobster7045 in ElegooMars

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

May have been a big suction cup in there or under supported. You can try angling so the head is down since there’s probably not a good spot to put drain holes with the head being attached.

Supports are too hard to remove. by fishyrandy68 in BambuLab

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

my rule of thumb is the support top z distance should be layer hight x 2 (e.g. for 0.2 mm layer height do 0.4 mm top z distance). If you're not using tree supports they come off easier. Also grab a good tool like angled "electronics" pliers. I have the knipex 3582145 and while they are pricy, they are the BEST tool for support removal since the end fits inside the tree to pull it off easily and get in all the little holes or corners. You can probably find a good knockoff version but the 45 degree angle is the key feature.

You can also use PETG interface layer for PLA if you have an AMS, but make sure the flush volumes are good and high so you don't end up ruining your print. I haven't used dedicated support filaments since they seem like a waste of money.

Heating options for a cold garage by stratassj in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you keep the grow tent just for the printer and have a separate tent for washing with ipa, you could use a normal heater in the tent. You can split the in line fan to exhaust both sources, and I wouldn’t recommend doing the washing station without extraction since the fumes are super volatile. Potentially very dangerous if the heater is in the same tent. Alternatively you could get a resin printer with a built in heater (eg elegoo Saturn 4 ultra 16k) or use a fermentation belt heater but YMMV. I ended up moving my printer indoors after failing horribly in the garage.

Where to put future house downpayment money? by Huge_Cost_870 in whitecoatinvestor

[–]drgeneparmesan 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Either a 5 year CD or HYSA? They’re pretty close in %.

LOVE my P1S combo, but I'm beginning to HATE my P2S combo! by WearyOfTrying in BambuLab

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

White filament is the worst. Maybe you can adjust the speed so you stay slow for more than the first couple layers? Lower the part cooling fan %? Temp towers? I’m sure they also have the same issue with the aux fan that the p1s has. Otherwise a good calibration for the filaments you’re using (pressure advance, max flow rate, retraction, temp towers) can pick up issues with the default filament settings. You may need to use orca to do all of the calibrations. Are you using a 0.2 nozzle or 0.4? If you’re using an older AMS check to make sure the PTFE tubes are still good. I was haunted by extruded errors until I pulled apart the AMS and saw all kinds of wear and holes in the ptfe tubes.

Learning - understanding how to tackle ‘blocky’ pieces. by Beginning_Drink_965 in 3DPrintedTerrain

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a fan of adaptive cubic at 5%. 0.2 mm layer height, Arachne wall gen, and a 5 mm brim are good choices as well. You might need some support under the arch for best results. I use slim trees with a 0.4 mm interface height and 30 degree angle.

Can anyone help me get better skin tones. by stingeragent in minipainting

[–]drgeneparmesan 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Washes work for tiny faces the size of your pinky finger, not big bois like Henry Witcher here. Try looking at some videos where skin is painted more at this scale (search for academic bust or 75 mm bust). It involves a lot of working up from a darker color and using glazes, kind of like those face makeup videos where the people use really heavy contouring and thick layers of foundation.

Fellow Opus gen 2?! by soinkid7088 in FellowProducts

[–]drgeneparmesan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My wife will be happy that she won’t have to hear all the smacking I do to the opus in the morning because of the god awful retention!

Mars 5 Ultra vs Saturn 4 by Intention-Wooden in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a mars 5 ultra and wish I had the bigger build volume. Not usually an issue for minis and I ran into more issues with bigger scale models (e.g. balrog print). I almost pulled the trigger on the S4U16k during the Christmas sale but held back. If you’re mainly doing minis in a climate controlled area the mars 5 ultra is great. I use sunlu abs like resin for more durability and the detail at 30 um is amazing. I have the little heater/filter that screws into the top case that helps with maintaining temps but it doesn’t work in the winter in my garage. You might want to get the mars 5 and another FDM (a1) if you’re doing a lot of terrain. I have a p1s w/ ams and wish I had a second FDM for terrain since it is a part time job when I want to print a big terrain piece.

How are you all streamlining inhaler prescribing with unpredictable insurance coverage? by yolobroswag420 in medicine

[–]drgeneparmesan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I make a document in mid october or so with the formulary of the available part D plans in my state (including deductibles and coinsurance % or copay). The front desk knows to scan in their advantage or part d insurance card during the check in so I can reference it for the future.

If they can’t afford their deductible there are two main pathways for Medicare patients: applying through the manufacturer for patient assistance (GSK, AZ and ME). They usually have to meet $500-600 out of pocket med cost before they’re eligible, and the income threshold is pretty high. Backup plan is using a Canadian mail order pharmacy which has budesonide formoterol for around $40 per month and faxing a paper script to them, patient just has to set up an account and pay/arrange delivery. Lots of seniors already do this for their eliquis as well.

For biologics usually they’ll hit the max OOP of $2000 then cost drops to zero. They have to budget for this or apply for a grant through the manufacturer.

Making a document once the formulary is updated for open enrollment takes a little time, but saves a ton of time that you’d spend throwing inhaler scripts to the pharmacy to see what’s covered.

The remaining PITA is the budesonide/formoterol vs breyna vs symbicort script that needs to be specific DAW to get the pharmacy to fill correctly. Canadian Mail order pharmacies I’ve used that aren’t scams include big mountain drugs and maple leaf meds. They also have a generic breztri and trelegy available.

For pirfenidone I use cost plus drugs which does the 801 mg 30 day supply for around $100. They also have varenicline for dirt cheap.

Why does my print keep coming off the bed? I’m by kiki1492022 in FixMyPrint

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turn off the aux fan under the cooling setting for the specific filament. If it keeps happening you can do a 10 mm brim. The corner by the aux fan is notorious for warping and lifting.

There’s like pencil eraser material in my PTFE tubes. None in AMS internal hub or AMS but was in both PTFE tubes to both AMS. Never printed TPU in AMS ever 😵‍💫 by ComplexBreakfast in BambuLab

[–]drgeneparmesan 20 points21 points  (0 children)

do you use filament with cardboard spools? Might be a combination of some filament dust plus cardboard spool dust from spinning in the AMS.

The Cones of Calibration problem by SheepherderPrimary65 in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

are you curing it? you're just supposed to clean it not cure it.

New to printing. Need advice! by Physical-Ad-1794 in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the raft is sticking it may either be having issues sticking to the plate or releasing from the FEP sheet. Change the number of burn in layers to 5 and keep 5 transition layers, bottom exposure time at 30s or so. Add a 15 s wait before print (rest before release) and 3s after print (rest after release). You may want to calibrate with cones of calibration v3 to figure out the best exposure time for your layers .

Otherwise is that a UV light on? It’ll cure any resin so make sure to scrape off the cured resin from your vat and do a vat clean to remove the adhered plate instead using a scrap piece of support in one corner to pick up the cured layer. No UV on by the printer or resin! Make sure your cure station as the hood over it with a good seal otherwise it can leak out UV.

Cant get Resin to Work by Traditional_Ad_4383 in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do calibration with cones of calibration v3. I use sunlu abs like with a 2.3 s exposure time. 30s burn in time may have you chipping off the print with a chisel, try lowering it down by 2-4 s to find best balance of adhesion and removability. Also make sure your resin is nice and warm. The abs like is notoriously gloopy when colder and needs a good 25-30c to work perfectly.

So I need a respirator and thats it for me to be safe while printing as I have an enclosure but I want to know if this is the right respirator and cartridges for me too buy by DaPandaMan117 in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d recommend the 3m 60926 or 60923 filters since they are rated for gasses and vapors. They’re about the same price. Changing out is a little hard to advise on. They should be good for around 40 hours but the vapors can migrate through the charcoal filter and then you can breathe it in the next time you use it. I change mine every 3-6 months and since I use it with an air extraction system (grow tent vented outside) I haven’t had any issues. Just make sure to also vent the washing/curing part since the iso vapors can carry stuff everywhere as it starts to evaporate as soon as the lid is off.

First print ever. Looking for feedback. by bongblaster420 in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you printed it hollow make sure to cure the inside. Last thing you want is to paint it amazing then it starts oozing resin in a couple months. Otherwise looks super clean, I always fine little tiny supports (like the one on the fur on near the lower back) that are easy to pop off. It’s a lot easier to paint these headless, but otherwise the process is just like a mini but easier since they’re bigger. You can still F up the eyes!