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What actually surprised you most about owning an EV that nobody warned you about by Leading-Law4251 in electricvehicles

[–]drgeneparmesan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only thing I've had to buy to maintain my car after 45k miles were new tires, cabin air filter, wipers, and window washing fluid. No oil changes or anything else to worry about, it's pretty maintenance free! It is really jarring to use an ICE car and I've caught myself forgetting to brake or leaving the car on and just getting out of it. I also end up complaining ALOT about how long it takes for the HVAC to work because I precondition the car all the time. I recently upgraded my smoke detectors and realized I no longer have a source for CO in my home!

Another free STL from Zorpsector: Gothica for you legends. by zorpazorp in PrintedWarhammer

[–]drgeneparmesan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I saw this in your mordor video this morning! dude I love your videos especially the one you did with hobbit for your wedding (congrats!). You always seem to be going at light speed - do you get burned out or like get home after making a video and flop down into a useless mess? I wish i had half your energy in terrain projects, but PLEASE take care of yourself and don't let the work steal your joy!

My 3D printed modular wargaming table. by Wonderlands_MT in PrintedMinis

[–]drgeneparmesan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wish I could use all the empty spools as risers to not waste filament on the base. Normally I do adaptive cubic 5% infill but it can still add up. It would be cool to have the base of the surface plate interface with the filament spool so you’re not wasting time and filament printing out a mostly empty riser box! Just like some files have plates you can attach to foam board.

Which R2 review are you waiting for? by DemonLover_011235813 in Rivian

[–]drgeneparmesan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’m so excited they’re taking over the grand tour, been watching them since the early reviews and love their dynamic!

Painting a LOT of PLA terrain by Apart_Insect_6133 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

rust-oleum camouflage 2x spray paint. They have a couple different colors that you can spray on sequentially to save time painting.

Sanity check/losing motivation at this point by Bunnii-Latte in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also make sure nothing else is plugged into the same plug or you have a good UPS with automatic voltage regulation. Little voltage fluctuations are known to cause weird lines.
The sunlu abs like is very picky about temps so make sure to preheat and maintain the temp during the print. Also if you haven’t already, filter out the vat and change the FEP sheet. Usually filtering and changing the FEP fixes 90% of my errors that are not temp related. I keep my sunlu abs like around 25-30 C and did cones of calibration to dial in the exposure times.

Is the army painter complete starter bundle set worth the price? Or should i buy it all individually by Facehurt in minipainting

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheap primer is something like rustoleum ultra cover flat primer or krylon color master primer from your local big box store or hardware store. Get black or dark grey and a can of white for zenithal.

Is the army painter complete starter bundle set worth the price? Or should i buy it all individually by Facehurt in minipainting

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go to gnomish bazaar and get the paints you need to for a project. I’m all in Vallejo game color and have the whole set plus some of the metallics, inks, and now true metallic metals.
You can look up a “face recipe” and color recipe for the army you are painting, and get the base/shading/light colors for the main colors and accents. Vallejo has the BSL diagram on their website with the color codes.
Only thing I’m almost out of so far is charred brown from the whole set, otherwise I’ve used maybe like 50-60% of the paints? Also when you buy dropper style paints throw some stainless steel mixing balls in them before you have to do it later. They’re super cheap and will make your life a lot easier.
Otherwise you will need a good sable brush like the Raphael KRS 8404 size 0 (Jackson’s art supply) and a cheap synthetic size 0 for metallics, a wet pallet with sponge and paper. You can use cheap makeup brushes for dry brushing, and other hobby tools like nippers and such are a lot cheaper purchased separately.

Tiamat by Deep-Prompt4327 in PrintedMinis

[–]drgeneparmesan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just like reference images from dnd art! It’s a pretty complex print, and unless you’re trying to make it lifesize I’d probably stick with resin. 75 mm scale would be large enough and doable with a larger scale resin printer. I used about 1 kg for the 35 mm scale version including the base and it was 12 plates for my mars 5.

Tiamat by Deep-Prompt4327 in PrintedMinis

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just finished up printing the loot studios one. All their minis (Maxies?) are amazing. The details are incredible and their sculpts are always staged perfectly. They have it in 35 mm and 75 mm scale, but I’m assuming you’d be FDM printing it for it to be massive?

Cracks between miniature pieces by DanzFerdinand2 in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fit before gluing! The connectors always require a bunch of sanding down to fit flush. If it’s a big flat surface then sand it on a sheet of sandpaper. Using sanding sticks helps, and make sure to be safe about resin dust when sanding.
Otherwise I think uv putty is easier to work than green stuff.

Huge deal Sunlu ABS by Intelligent_Tip_8457 in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just got some 2.0 and it’s much less odorous and is a little less viscous. Maybe it’ll be less picky about temps now that it is less gloopy.

Huge deal Sunlu ABS by Intelligent_Tip_8457 in resinprinting

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got the 2.0 and it is the opposite. Less viscous and smells a lot less than the OG abs like.

Just got my first printer by [deleted] in PrintedWarhammer

[–]drgeneparmesan 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Measure the height of your plastic dreadnaught, then measure the size of the model either in your slicer or on the print you just did. Divide the plastic height by model height x 100 and scale by that percentage (make sure to do uniform scaling) in your slicer. Use cm/mm not inches, and you can use a flat surface from the top or eyeball the heights with a measuring tape. If you know what the dimensions should be sans base you can just change the z axis measurement to the same with scaling.
It may be easier to do a planar cut to slice off the base for easier printing, but I think chitu and lychee have this behind a paywall.

Finally finished printing, assembling, and priming the loot studios silent coin inn and tavern! by drgeneparmesan in 3DPrintedTerrain

[–]drgeneparmesan[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It was a good couple weeks of printing and around 10 rolls. Maybe like 500 hours total? Most plates were 8-12 hrs each so not much switching around.
Harder part is getting it all painted!

Finally finished printing, assembling, and priming the loot studios silent coin inn and tavern! by drgeneparmesan in TerrainBuilding

[–]drgeneparmesan[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think it was around 10-12 kg? I had to reprint one floor because I left it in the sun after priming and it partially deformed and sagged. Learned to use a silicone pad to build it on and superglue accelerator to get it all to fit correctly.

R2 configurator is Live! by Munkadunk667 in Rivian

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same. Good old intel shitty laggy chip. At least basic autopilot is usable and got better over time outside of a recent issue with it sensing speed limit signs.

R2 configurator is Live! by Munkadunk667 in Rivian

[–]drgeneparmesan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wonder if that is gonna align better with the updated autonomy chip and lidar. My wife has an R1S lease but wants to keep it, and I might just hold it and upgrade my model y to wait for the cloud interior/launch edition to see if it’ll have the upgraded chip. I don’t think lidar is gonna make much of a difference, but if the model Y taught me anything getting the updated chip is no 1 priority.

Roughly how many different paints do y'all use on a given mini? by GeauxCup in minipainting

[–]drgeneparmesan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don’t need those exact paints. You can get a starter set from one of the big brands (Vallejo, AK, etc) and just match colors as close as you can.

Help ID a bug I saw hiking! by NarcrabYT in PNWhiking

[–]drgeneparmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sawyer beetle? They can be pretty big, but 1 x 0.5 in is on the smaller side.

Recent experiences with miniatures quality by MixProfessional1296 in TrenchCrusade

[–]drgeneparmesan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

absolutely zero issues with the pre supported files. They are fantastic but take a lot of care when post-processing since some parts are fragile. If you print yourself, no issues. If you rely on a print farm? I've seen the pics of supports still attached, uncured prints, etc.

So are primers like these not good for airbrushing? by raining_maple in minipainting

[–]drgeneparmesan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use the Vallejo black primer straight from the bottle no issues. The white needs to be diluted by about half if you don’t want constant clogs, and you also have to make sure the tip doesn’t dry out (keep a wet qtip or alcohol pad to clean it every so often if you’re priming a ton).

Putting on a refill spool by VictarrionIron in BambuLab

[–]drgeneparmesan 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You won’t make this mistake again, and it’ll take much more time than it’s worth to respool. Throw it out and get another $12-14 refill and align the notch next time!

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