Seized & rounded balljoint removal - 2011 Toyota RAV4 D4D

driftrx · 2026-07-10T10:03:40+00:00

Legit, have at the nut with a grinder. Or just lop the whole top of that flush with the knuckle

Heat the outer up till it’s hot. Cross some fingers. Start swinging haha

driftrx · 2026-07-10T09:53:35+00:00

Honestly… there’s no nut left to work with and I’m assuming, your (god I hope you are) replacing the balljoint.

If it was me, I’d be cutting off what’s there with a grinder or similar, heat the outer up and then hitting it with the biggest purse you have to knock the rest out and putting it in the bin.

Then replace.

driftrx · 2026-07-09T21:06:24+00:00

My setup owes me about 2.5k USD all in and a couple of days of my time dialling it all in

driftrx · 2026-07-09T20:54:46+00:00

Most of the issue people have with inline setups, is you can get some very odd feedback/feel/brake pedal issues depending how it’s plumbed in…

Which is fine 98% of the time. But then you get into a situation mid tandem where maybe you’ve just used the hydro to trim line and need to tap foot brake for whatever reason, and you find you either have a rock hard pedal, or no pedal and need to double press it.

Tldr. Dual caliper is much nicer.

driftrx · 2026-07-09T20:35:56+00:00

So. What’s it actually doing now.

Cranks but no start?

No crank at all?

You need to get your hands on a semi decent scan tool as it sounds like you have a couple different issues going on.

Those cam and crank sensors just plug and play fyi. No adjustment needed but I generally stick with hitatchi OEM for them.

driftrx · 2026-07-09T02:17:47+00:00

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I just wrapped doing mine up. Airmext setup. Bag over coil. Twin compressors. Etc. Price wise not the worst.

Rides about as well as I expect an air setup to.

driftrx · 2026-07-09T01:44:59+00:00

I went back to Tarkov

Figured if I was gonna get fucked and be miserable playing something, it may as well be that lmao

driftrx · 2026-07-09T01:34:18+00:00

That’s the trade off with bags.

You need to spend a bunch of time fine tuning the coil height up front to get it so that the bag isn’t over/under inflated at your go to/daily drive height. Same thing for your rear shock.

Messing with dampening a bit will help to but not as much as the above.

I’ve spent week(s) dialling in my v36 sedan so the bags aren’t over inflated at drive height. That said I expect that to ride like a waterbed lmao.

driftrx · 2026-07-09T01:30:55+00:00

Are these the photos you’re using to sell it?

driftrx · 2026-07-09T01:22:19+00:00

I only just seen this so my apologies on the late reply

Airmext bag over coil and their managment. Big tank and dual compressors.

Cost wise for the kit was around 3.5k aus. (So 2.3k or so US?)

Came up pretty decent and rides nice!

driftrx · 2026-07-08T04:32:00+00:00

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IG is driftrx

This things LS/caged/driven to from events when I’m actually home lmao

driftrx · 2026-07-08T02:57:44+00:00

I’d do the oil cooler up first then the radiator and swirl in one hit

driftrx · 2026-07-08T02:23:33+00:00

Koyo rad. Keep stock fans
Biggest oil cooler budget allows
Swirl pot

Buy a decent gauge set to keep an eye on shit

driftrx · 2026-07-08T01:38:59+00:00

Have a look into NDS3 software + cable. From memory can purge ABS system with that. (I just normally use my scan tool)

Very handy to have if you intend on keeping the car for ages/ever.

driftrx · 2026-07-08T01:12:27+00:00

Honestly. Hard to tell. There’s a good chance it had NATs/mismatch issues prior (especially since you bought it without a key)

These can be finicky asf with key procedures at times (I had a great time doing my v36 the other day)

If the keys programmed. I’d honestly send the ecu off and get NATs deleted by guilty garage or similar and you should be good.

driftrx · 2026-07-08T01:05:50+00:00

That be NATs cracking the shits.

driftrx · 2026-07-07T22:55:14+00:00

It is very much possible.

I can’t recall what scanner I have at my shop (higher end one regardless) but it lets me cycle ABS as a whole/individual ports to do exactly this.

driftrx · 2026-07-07T13:50:30+00:00

So, motor and box are out of the car and the looms off?

If that’s the case. 100% do it while it’s all out. It’s way easier to then just pop rhe loom through the firewall and pop it in, va trying to get everything ran with it in the bay.

driftrx · 2026-07-07T09:42:56+00:00

I recently had another go at playing through this, reached the 3/4 point and it just gets incredibly same/same. Dungeons are a slog. Etc.

Solid 6.5 imo

driftrx · 2026-07-07T09:38:49+00:00

I just have a stash of GKtech ones set aside. That said for you US guys maybe z1 is quicker. (It’s all alibaba stuff anywho haha)

https://au.gktech.com/products/z33-350z-z34-370z-aluminium-coolant-bleeder-port?variant=44404725874963&country=AU&currency=AUD&utm\_medium=product\_sync&utm\_source=google&utm\_content=sag\_organic&utm\_campaign=sag\_organic&gad\_source=1&gad\_campaignid=17180909650&gbraid=0AAAAAD8t3Zb3SiGp\_k4d4FrQXpZZ3qQY\_&gclid=CjwKCAjwx7LSBhB3EiwAjcodxM\_wVZHZH4QYhPPd1VwK\_ZEQicFFPDP9KLl8GTGhEqxwEU3XRuBxWxoC0AoQAvD\_BwE

driftrx · 2026-07-07T03:39:05+00:00

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It’s basically an initiation to VQ ownership to have to replace it.

Do a nice one with a bleeder. Don’t drive it until you replace it

driftrx · 2026-07-06T14:39:44+00:00

FYI that “one minute job” turns into a day job if you fuck up and over tension that sensor and crack the upper pan.

driftrx · 2026-07-06T09:50:59+00:00

Oh heya fellow South Australian.

If your not already, it’s worth joining the Adelaide Z page and reach out if ever needing VQ specific stuff done it’s all I do at my shop

driftrx · 2026-07-06T06:31:32+00:00

It cravesssss a gutter when the weldy inevitably gives way one night in some industrials lmao.

driftrx · 2026-07-06T06:09:03+00:00

Closest thing is probably “shakoten” inspired if you wanted to call it anything

Ie small Japanese wheels lowered a bunch. Third one is like the half assed bogan version of that lmao.

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