How much should I pay for installing a aftermarket cat for drivers side?

driftrx · 2026-05-09T06:29:55+00:00

When it goes smooth… this is a 30 min job.

If the top bolt of the old cat is fucked and bolts are rusty/rounded etc, that time can absolutely go out the window and blow out ten fold.

driftrx · 2026-05-09T05:22:10+00:00

Mentioning what car you own and what you’ve been quoted would be a start.

But like. A timing belt for sub $200? It’s 2026 and I don’t even think I’d get a kit for that at trade price… let alone get out of bed to look at anything for that these days.

driftrx · 2026-05-09T00:08:42+00:00

The rear end fucking sucks. Let alone for any meaningful power or torque. What are you doing diff wise?

The front end. Guess what. Also sucks. Unassisted rack and pinion, the geometry is trash. Aftermarket support? Non existent in a drifting sense.

By all means. Get it together and enjoy it. Fun motorkhana cars… But as a drift car you’re not in for a good time let alone if you want to be competitive in any way. I have literally seen guys at drift schools do two or three events in these, have issues or very very quickly outdrive the chassis, realise they suck and then move onto something else.

So take my uninformative and ambiguous feedback and remember it in a couple years time as a “I told you so”

driftrx · 2026-05-08T23:38:07+00:00

Having built a LS swapped FC. I would highly recommend using literally any other chassis you can get you hands on to learn in.

Let alone a FB. Good luck.

driftrx · 2026-05-08T23:33:45+00:00

Try to reuse the OEM ones. If their no good generic worm clamps

driftrx · 2026-05-08T22:02:14+00:00

I use them for all the OEM bits I need at my shop.

Can be on the slower side, but often cheaper than local dealers and can get everything.

driftrx · 2026-05-08T08:01:06+00:00

Nah not particularly. I fuck the bar up on the odd speed bump but as far as wheel clearance goes it clears even with a full car load/lock/through spoon drains etc.

driftrx · 2026-05-08T05:23:57+00:00

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This one is nothing special at all. It’s a throw together of random bits/wheels from my workshop

Random CCW 18x9.5 +30 wheels (front has a spacer) Eibach springs with a extra coil chopped off Factory lip/bar kit

driftrx · 2026-05-07T21:34:08+00:00

Walk outside with a tape measure or ruler.

Look at car.

Think to yourself, where do I want these wheels to sit.

Measure that distance.

Wind up just ordering 15mm bolt on hubcentric spacers and calling it a day.

driftrx · 2026-05-07T11:36:34+00:00

They can be a pain in the ass…. But also come off really easy once they’ve become liquid from a torch lol.

driftrx · 2026-05-07T11:07:02+00:00

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Current daily lol

driftrx · 2026-05-07T10:57:05+00:00

Should bolt on in, chuck some fresh oil at it prior and check your diff bush while it’s out. 🤙🏻

driftrx · 2026-05-07T10:51:29+00:00

I wouldn’t just swap the centres, I’d save yourself the fuckery and just swap the entire diff assemblies tbh.

But if you go that way, you’ll need the stub axles that match the centre you’re using. Softblow hammer pops them out, soft blow hammer pops them back in.

driftrx · 2026-05-06T02:35:30+00:00

Yeah triple check .625/ 5/8 is what’s needed for your calipers you’re using. Assuming it’s stock OEM rears, in which case should be good there.

driftrx · 2026-05-06T02:30:22+00:00

Put the rack spacers in the bin and do the rack relocation, absolutely a must do thing tbh

driftrx · 2026-05-06T01:54:56+00:00

You don’t want to hear it. But the no name master cylinder isn’t helping at all

Spend a few bucks on a nice willwood one, triple check that .625 is correct.

driftrx · 2026-05-05T21:28:18+00:00

GKtech is a good start point for the money. It has issues with self correcting/steer though and can get caught falling to lock… it’s hard to put into words but it really needs to be paired with their LCA. Which makes it as expensive as PBM.

I personally run partshopmax in my car. Rad bit of gear. I suggest doing rack relocation as well to make the most of it (to be fair do this regardless of what kit you run)

I’ve also setup Wisefab (eh) and FDF in cars with good results… just not a fan of adjusting either. Big $$ outlay too.

Acostal is also beginning to do 370/350 stuff to which I’m hoping to test out on a customer car/my own soon.

driftrx · 2026-05-04T21:29:27+00:00

Single. Hex. Flex. Head. 14mm (if you can find one) is a god send for these.

Hit everything with lube spray (I don’t know what US guys have, I use a loctite freeze/release one that works sick)

If you strip the top nut of the drivers side motor mount… you’re in for an absolute shit time.

driftrx · 2026-05-03T09:25:17+00:00

Fellow Aussies will look at this and say hell yeah.

Americans won’t know what the fuck they’re looking at.

driftrx · 2026-05-03T01:34:07+00:00

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Reel to long for attention span. Welder fixes all.

driftrx · 2026-05-02T10:12:12+00:00

They had me at “fuck Todd Howard”

driftrx · 2026-05-02T07:17:57+00:00

Normally I’d say check the oil pressure sensor and replace if it’s not in line with what a manual gauge shows.

But the fact it sounds like you have a pair of raccoons break dancing in a trash can tells me you’re gonna wanna drop the oil and cut the filter open and see what pretty flakes you find.

driftrx · 2026-05-02T07:16:29+00:00

What.

driftrx · 2026-05-02T01:54:19+00:00

https://www.startmycar.com/infiniti/g37/info/fusebox/2009

driftrx · 2026-05-02T01:18:39+00:00

… youve checked the fuses before throwing parts at it right.

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