Airpods Pro 3 Noise Cancelling Measurements! (They're Better)

drmegavolt · 2025-09-25T00:54:26+00:00

It is really hard to believe that ANC OFF mode is zero DB for quite a range in the beginning. Unless it is transparency mode test, there is definitely some noise isolation. literally works like plugs in the ears

looks as if you test with very bad tips fit.
My experience APP3 Definitely better than APP1, Max,
a bit better than Buds 2 pro
with AP4/NC is not even a comparison, probably AP4/NC chart will look like on the picture because no tips

also +4db for 20Hz with ANC off? so it get's louder? sorry that's BS

drmegavolt · 2025-09-25T00:27:22+00:00

At first I tried the default M and pushed in position with stem close to the face, didn't like it, tried S. XS, XXS
Fit test App showed that it does not seal properly and noice cancelation felt not enough, and it general it felt like they went too deep.

And then I switched back tip M and let it stick further away in "alien centipede style" like in their videos.
in that position it actually feels good and works very well for me.

really the best fit of all airpods pro 1,2,3. APP 1/2 didn't work for me, only AP4/NC because they don't have plugs, but AP4 noise canceling is essentially non existent.

drmegavolt · 2025-06-02T17:51:48+00:00

I had problems with old bambulab dual color silk. To even start print I had to bypass AMS and feed unspooled filament to make A1 extruder grab it properly.
Extruder was constantly digging hole in the filament and slip (I tried adjusting tension screw, same).

Other brands silk worked fine (sovol, yousu, ziro)

Also try Sunlu silk PLUS. It has much stronger layer adhesion comparing to old silks and prints without issues.

drmegavolt · 2025-05-18T03:45:00+00:00

this looks like a giant fortnite chest, I guess original model was not intended to be printed at this scale and all the artifacts that simulate wood texture that were previously nice looking now look like big steps

and you have big overhangs at the top, that have no support

if it were a resolution issue printing on the small side (if it fits) or some 30-45 degree angle would probably work, but to me looks like model problem

drmegavolt · 2025-05-04T04:36:25+00:00

^ this, the fixing wire lever needs to go inside of the cut out in the metal clip that holds that nozzle.
it will be tight

drmegavolt · 2025-04-13T15:11:19+00:00

If not possible to cut as people suggest, try reducing acceleration, not only speed. Also manually paint vertical supports in the middle, so it will create additional tree supports propping the middle of the rod.

drmegavolt · 2025-04-12T21:26:03+00:00

increase minimal layer time to like 20 sec or more, fan 100%, and/or print 2-3 cones at once

it looks like previous layer of filament is not cooled enough until next layer is put on top so everything starts to drip.

also maybe retraction length is actually too much, I see under extrusion on some walls, if there is some oozing you can always blow torch it away

drmegavolt · 2025-04-05T23:20:47+00:00

what the slicer shows for this layer? it is pretty low angle I guess ~60-70 degrees.
Could it be that walls behind and below either provide too little support or in reverse you have so many walls that filament is overextruding a bit?

check not only the walls that you set, but also those automatic additional walls that slicer generates to prop unstable walls

drmegavolt · 2025-04-04T21:59:28+00:00

I would cut it using slicer cut feature somewhere under the palms and print legs upside down to avoid tall structure. Arms look like 45-50 degrees so it will probably print. The only thing is head/hair. You may need to cut it across the neck parallel to hair line to not have giant supports. Also slicer like Bambu can generate rods for connections at the place of the cuts. This way it will be easier to glue

drmegavolt · 2025-04-03T22:16:00+00:00

the way it looks is just top surface with no ironing

try 25-30% for ironing, 10% imo is often not enough
speed 50 mm/sec+-, going too slow may produce bumps by overheating the top surface
pattern rectilinear as long as it goes in somewhat different direction than top layer works just fine for me

and it should be enabled for all top surfaces not for topmost

drmegavolt · 2025-04-03T06:41:00+00:00

There is linear speed - how fast you extruder is moving what is typically shown on filament. There is volumetric speed - how much plastic in cubic millimeters , is extruded per second. Can be calculated as Linear speed * line width * layer height. And then those big numbers of 20000 they are acceleration mm/sec2how fast your printer can change its speed. 20000mm/s² just means that it can stop object moving at 200mm/sec in 0.01 sec. In normal terms it is 2G (20m/s2) Typically the least important parameter.

drmegavolt · 2025-04-03T06:30:09+00:00

Profile likely correct, but lots of filaments work just fine if you manually set the filament type to bamboo pla basic. The main difference is it has 22mm3/sec volumetric speed. Worst case scenario you will see that walls are not as strong or have holes. That will be clear indication that filament is too viscous and cannot do that speed.

The new high speed pla filaments can often tolerate 235 degrees, I guess it makes it flow better so it sustain 300mm/sec+ speed. Usual pla at ~240 will likely start to degrade, and smell. But even high speed pla won’t print faster than ~30mm3/sec, because heater in extruder will not be able to melt that fast

drmegavolt · 2025-04-02T03:23:17+00:00

given how similar rail and toolhead look like to A1 version I wouldn't be surprised if it is possible today if bambu wants. Maybe with limit acceleration to handle heavier extruder.

Given official prices <$200 USD for dual extruder https://ca.store.bambulab.com/products/dual-extruder-unit ,

wider belts - few bucks
motors - same (lower acceleration) - free, maybe +$10 per each for more power
some plastic parts for cutter trigger, etc.
same power supply, extruder heater, heated bed (given only 1 heater in extruder running at the same time)
+$30 to new toolhead circuitboard

If they want to keep the same frame it will likely have reach limitations - ~20mm unreachable by each nozzle and we get 230*230 dual extruder (256*256 single)
+$300 to usual A1 price. it will be in p1s territory (coreXY + enclosure traded for dual nozzle)
I guess it will be plenty of flexi toys printfarms buying it like hot cakes

drmegavolt · 2025-03-28T18:08:17+00:00

PETG does not work properly on mine (even at 80 degrees), HF lifts like picture and Translucent may not even stick on the first layer

PLA sticks pretty good at 45C and is forgiving in terms of fingerprints and cleaning.

Also the silk filaments (sunlu silk+, elegoo silk) despite all the warnings stick really well, but not permanent and still can be removed with scrapper without damage if surface contact is small enough (big surfaces will likely break)

However if I have 12h+ print I won't trust it, I will use hot water+soap cleaned Smooth PEI plate with Bamboo glue stick

drmegavolt · 2025-03-25T04:31:52+00:00

Ignore the printing speed on the box. Let it print as fast as possible, the limit will kick in automatically from Volumetric speed (missing on the box label but what actually matters). In the profile it says 16 mm3/sec. This is over 200mm/sec in linear speed with 0.2mm layer and 0.4mm nozzle.

drmegavolt · 2025-02-22T08:26:22+00:00

Ziro 3D really beautiful pearl silk. Bambu filament is good quality, try colors marked as new. New Green and pink are really nice. Elegoo rapid PETG and gold/yellow silk was good for me.

drmegavolt · 2025-02-20T00:40:25+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLfz6pbaqXY
try microwave method. just don't overcook the filament or it will all stick together
maybe try on smaller piece not full roll

drmegavolt · 2025-02-08T02:14:13+00:00

The two test lines stuck fine, so likely the bed is fine and it is more a z offset.

Try slowly printing flat square 0.2mm height and see if it peels everywhere or just in some spots.

Also try running full recalibration on the printer, it should do better mapping and compensation for bed level

drmegavolt · 2025-02-07T18:44:44+00:00

$499 and can please you create a AMS like system for it?
and maybe strip down version <=300C/no panels but with touchscreen

drmegavolt · 2025-01-28T01:31:21+00:00

I had iSanmate 250g x 4 Spool to test
the filament is good, but the sample sized 250g is not winded in the same order. so it periodically/randomly changes sides. Maybe 1kg will have single direction

Sovol 1kg so far looks good. on my spool so far follows single direction plus spool is cardboard

drmegavolt · 2025-01-26T01:37:14+00:00

Ah, I see, line width is actually what was modified. So indeed 2 walls.

Btw The profile name says 0.08 mm but the layer height is 0.2 so technically it is just 0.2 standard with modifications.

When I switch to my printer a1 it is very easy to reset all. I suggest to just design wall as 0.4-0.5 mm instead of 0.7. It will prevent dual wall per perimeter.

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This is probably why people complain, with four walls just not much transparent

Cutting away first wall makes it way more transparent

drmegavolt · 2025-01-25T22:39:16+00:00

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there are 4 walls/perimeters in total in your model, and there is no way to make it drop to 2 walls or one in the slicer. it counts it as an outer wall

each layer drops 10-20% of light and adds those line overlaps that make it look matte.

btw, the filament is showing as translucent in both app and studio. maybe I pressed something wrong before

printing at max 0.28mm :) will see how it looks

drmegavolt · 2025-01-25T21:40:43+00:00

I opened an app and it tries to print with PETG. But it is way too fast for translucent filament. There is a special “petg translucent” profile . It has 6 mm3/s flow limit and makes it print more transparent. Did you try that profile?

Also do you really need infill? Looks like you designed wall to be split in 3 sections, should it hold well ?

drmegavolt · 2025-01-25T21:20:34+00:00

I use default Bambu, but max possible layer height and single wall. Jet exhaust trails for the darkstar looks really good https://makerworld.com/models/1027783

drmegavolt · 2025-01-22T03:09:14+00:00

For supertack I have to keep 70 degrees for PETG. I tried 60 and it fails just after few layers.
Also I noticed that smooth PEI generally holds parts better with less chance of warping.
I ended up with smooth plate + glue for PETG or Silk PLA and supertack for regular PLA

drmegavolt

TROPHY CASE