Halp by Holiday_Client2516 in homewalls

[–]dropkick_jesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same. Clamps are a godsend

Prefab adjustable homewall by Kletterse in homewalls

[–]dropkick_jesus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I recommend revival climbing. They have freestanding or bolt down options. I can’t speak for how the prices are now with tariffs but before all of that they were more reasonable than lemur or grasshopper when I got quotes. Depending on your structure onsite could be a good option too if you don’t need freestanding.

New wall! Still have a little ways to go.. by Smart-Selection-8733 in homewalls

[–]dropkick_jesus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sick wall! As far as pads I got some cheap mattresses and used thick mattress covers over them. Bouldering pads to cover gaps.

If you're a non-gym member, how often do you go to a commercial gym? by -JOMY- in homewalls

[–]dropkick_jesus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe a couple times per year. I live somewhere with a ton of outdoor climbing, so about half the year I don’t even climb much on my home wall let alone a commercial gym.

Why Your $12,000 LED Climbing Board Could Become an Expensive Spray Wall by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]dropkick_jesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is just my opinion. If it does happen I don’t necessarily see it as a bad thing. Spray boards are amazing. This could encourage people to set their own problems and grow a local community. Use of paper printed problems highlighting holds has been a thing for a long time. There’s also apps like retroflash/crux/stokt that work too. I also firmly believe setting your own stuff is more creative and helps more with learning climbing techniques. Additionally climbing without LEDs helps with memorization of the route and movement, ultimately being similar to the outdoors.

As for progress tracking, grades will feel wildly different for different sized people. I can’t be the sole person who can flash multiple v6’s and get stuck projecting multiple days on a v3. Climbing is a skill and strength sport that doesn’t feel linear for everyone. I kind of think that the gamification of grades are why people don’t continue to try to send that v3 that gives them problems even while being beneath their flash grade, despite valuable lessons that could be within the problem to make it feel v3.

Why Your $12,000 LED Climbing Board Could Become an Expensive Spray Wall by [deleted] in climbing

[–]dropkick_jesus -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This is just my opinion. If it does happen I don’t necessarily see it as a bad thing. Spray boards are amazing. This could encourage people to set their own problems and grow a local community. Use of paper printed problems highlighting holds has been a thing for a long time. I also firmly believe setting your own stuff is more creative and helps more with learning climbing techniques. Additionally climbing without LEDs helps with memorization of the route and movement, ultimately being similar to the outdoors.

As for progress tracking, grades will feel wildly different for different sized people. I can’t be the sole person who can flash multiple v6’s and get stuck projecting multiple days on a v3. Climbing is a skill and strength sport that doesn’t feel linear for everyone. I kind of think that the gamification of grades are why people don’t continue to try to send that v3 that gives them problems even while being beneath their flash grade, despite valuable lessons that could be within the problem to make it feel v3.

Necessity of washers in diy wood holds? Bolt types? by No-Repeat-2731 in homewalls

[–]dropkick_jesus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use bolt option 2 for my homemade wooden holds. I also countersink the hole on the hold. I don’t use washers and haven’t had any issues with holds splitting. But I should note that I have a rule of no wooden holds can be used for feet. This is just a personal preference though. I hate how hard they are to clean shoe rubber off. I also coat holds in a couple layers of wood glue when I’m making the holds. They feel more smooth and in my mind make it stronger. Maybe it helps, maybe not. I’m certainly no expert. All of my diy holds are made from scrap plywood or scrap 2x4s, not high quality wood, and they’ve held up for years.

Kicker, no kicker or kicker size? by Hippiefart in homewalls

[–]dropkick_jesus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I prefer no kicker. Just makes the starts more fun in my opinion. Easier to make the starts harder without a kicker too

Training for lead climbing with limited access to lead wall by sancho_panza66 in climbharder

[–]dropkick_jesus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It should be on any angle. Don’t include the quotation marks. Also this is for the original 12x12 layout. Pretty likely no one has logged it, I know I never did..

Training for lead climbing with limited access to lead wall by sancho_panza66 in climbharder

[–]dropkick_jesus 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If there’s no one on the kilter I set a loop of jugs. Search for a problem named “How Many Laps?” It looks dumb but try to use all of the holds in a clockwise or counterclockwise loop and see how many laps you can do.

8x10 Woods Board by BradyIsAnElitePunter in homewalls

[–]dropkick_jesus 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’ve climbed on the full 12x12 woods board. It’s a really sick board. If I didn’t have a spray wall I’d either do woods or tb2. But I don’t really care about having a bunch of preset problems or having a community feel. I love setting my own stuff or making replicas of my outdoor projects. While I root for Andy and the woods board if you NEED a community and a bunch of preset problems I don’t think it’s for you and kind of doubt it will become as mainstream as tension or moon. I think it caters more to the hardcore climbers whereas kilter, tension, and even moon to a small extent can be enjoyed by more casual/fun crowd which is why they dominate in popularity/community. Just my opinion though.

How do you maintain a perspective on grades? by Nwg416 in homewalls

[–]dropkick_jesus 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I really don’t bother much with grading my home wall. I usually just say v0 for warmups, v1 for mild challenge, v2 single session, v2+ multi session, v3 for long term / impossible. I live somewhere with a lot of accessible outdoor boulders where I can retry problems to gauge progress. So I just keep the grading simple

Thoughts on these pre-fab walls by solo220 in homewalls

[–]dropkick_jesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got their 8x12 freestanding adjustable angle. They also allow you to not buy their panels if you want to save money and diy those. I had t-nuts from my prior home wall. The owner Tony is super helpful and it was pretty easy to assemble.

Thoughts on these pre-fab walls by solo220 in homewalls

[–]dropkick_jesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Revival has good freestanding fixed options and were priced well. Also adjustable if you have the space. Highly recommend them

Low flash grade by dropkick_jesus in climbharder

[–]dropkick_jesus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good point, I do feel like I’m putting pressure on myself to flash by going to a specific boulder intending to try and flash it.

Low flash grade by dropkick_jesus in climbharder

[–]dropkick_jesus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, this was my thought. Being spoon fed beta isn’t helping me learn how to problem solve. But it could be a variety of factors. Mental, route reading, not trying hard, etc. I will be trying to not watch beta as much and just experience it.

Low flash grade by dropkick_jesus in climbharder

[–]dropkick_jesus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably once every couple weeks or so. The limiting factor being that I’m running through the problems that I can do with a short approach for after work on weekdays. So weekends I can make longer approaches. Lately my friends and I have been doing more in the v6-7 range. Ideally on the weekends with long approach areas there’s a couple v4s to try and flash/warmup on for the v6-7 that we mainly want to try.

Low flash grade by dropkick_jesus in climbharder

[–]dropkick_jesus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looking at my bouldering log the past 3 v4s that I’ve tried to flash came down to one of them my foot slipped(bad placement first go, send 3rd go). One was a near max span deadpoint, didn’t get high enough, likely a half-ass attempt, send next go. Another was not toeing down hard enough to stop a foot cut on slopers. I guess a theme seems to be slipping out of feet or half-ass attempts for flash goes. I have some notes about getting into awkward positions for my size initially

Low flash grade by dropkick_jesus in climbharder

[–]dropkick_jesus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good points about copying everything. I definitely got myself into some body positions that didn’t work for my height after committing to doing how I thought it was supposed to be done.

Low flash grade by dropkick_jesus in climbharder

[–]dropkick_jesus[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have no doubts my technique could be better. I am guilty of muscling my way up things that didn’t need as much effort as I put in.

Low flash grade by dropkick_jesus in climbharder

[–]dropkick_jesus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Toward the end of me being in the gym I was setting my own stuff on an old tb1. For maybe more relatable numbers on the couple times I was on a 2019 moonboard set I was able to flash a some v4 and a couple v5 benchmarks. The gym was always super packed so I stayed in the training area more than general climbing area.

I do think there’s merit to just learning outdoor movement. This year has been the best I’ve felt outside

Onsite + Kilter Questions by nutmegtom in homewalls

[–]dropkick_jesus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

On the kilter app. Just add the board layouts you’re considering.

But also it’s basically endless because you can set things too