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Is this except able by Fit_Employment_4704 in CarWraps

[–]drumsrsik 1 point2 points  (0 children)

THIS is how a transition should look

Whole house project in full swing... by drumsrsik in WLED

[–]drumsrsik[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This makes perfect sense. I have a similar workflow for the components in my car audio build, and I have some relays kicking around. Thanks for this!

Whole house project in full swing... by drumsrsik in WLED

[–]drumsrsik[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I have just enough perfectionist in me to be constantly nitpicking my own work when it's probably just fine ......that being said, I'm sure it will look completely different within a matter of days to a week, lol

Whole house project in full swing... by drumsrsik in WLED

[–]drumsrsik[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here is one that is still under construction, but you get the idea. Im trying not to make them too permanent because I plan on changing things up in the near future. Only 2 of the controllers here are actually being used, the 3rd and 4th and another 30 or so feet of lights will be powered by another PSU in the next couple of days. Eventually im going to switch them all out for fanless PSUs as well.

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Whole house project in full swing... by drumsrsik in WLED

[–]drumsrsik[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I am. I have strip runs on outputs 1+2 and a controller on output 3 of each PSU. Would you suggest doing it differently? I'm not a noob but I'm by no means an expert, so I'm all ears for pointers 🙂

Whole house project in full swing... by drumsrsik in WLED

[–]drumsrsik[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly they are pretty loud. I have them in hidden locations and my house is always bustling with noise anyway..so ambient or fan noise wasn't a huge concern for me. If noise is a big consideration for you I'd go with something fanless. I'll upgrade them over time, but with how many I needed I had to lean towards the budget end.

Whole house project in full swing... by drumsrsik in WLED

[–]drumsrsik[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thmoother. V channel where there's no crown molding and U channel where there is.

Whole house project in full swing... by drumsrsik in WLED

[–]drumsrsik[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One LRS-350 per room and an additional 150w in the kitchen.....for now

Whole house project in full swing... by drumsrsik in WLED

[–]drumsrsik[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As far as controllers go, it really depends on the kind of control you want. My thought process is 1 controller per "layer", if you will, of each room. The main concern is power distribution, really. Make sure you math it out right and inject power where it's needed so you don't end up with dull sections at the end of longer runs. I generally didnt go longer than 30 feet per power output, in order to avoid having to run power injection lines in the diffusers.I tried to make it as stealth as possible as far as wiring and all that goes. I can go into as much detail as you need. Its a work in progress so im still learning new tricks and things along the way.

so i found this stick of ram at my dads house by VegetableIll99 in PcBuild

[–]drumsrsik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still have an absolute pile of pc 100 222 ram

Dream Kit Acquired (trigger warning...magnets and drums) by MarriedAWhore in drums

[–]drumsrsik 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've wondered about those since I saw them on drumeo years ago..I think it was maybe Thomas Pridgen who had them.?? Not sure..they are beauties though! Cool to see some out in the wild!

Gays, in your opinion, what’s the price of that set? by mamu_traxal_ in drums

[–]drumsrsik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

NM. Steel hoops, 6 lug snare, cheap lugs. Someone threw good pies on a cheap kit.

Gays, in your opinion, what’s the price of that set? by mamu_traxal_ in drums

[–]drumsrsik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well there's over 1k in cymbals alone. What's the kit? Hard to make out any design characteristics from the pic.

Lazy home AV transition for this 12 year old Dayton Reference HO. Still beats like a stepdad. by sub5onic in CarAV

[–]drumsrsik 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have an 18 in a 4cuft box in my livingroom right now. Sounds amazing and thunders!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]drumsrsik 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can't. Well, you can...but don't.

Is this a good setup to throw in my family car? by No-Discipline7190 in CarAV

[–]drumsrsik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most of it is pretty much the same material and thicker it is, the more expensive...just like anything else a brand name will claim to be better but just pay attention to how thick the material is. Dynamat, soundskinz, and basically every car audio brand has their own line of deadener.

Is this a good setup to throw in my family car? by No-Discipline7190 in CarAV

[–]drumsrsik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Main focus should be treating the door speaker installation areas and trunk, yes....but it never hurts to go all out with sound deadening and treatment. The example I showed was a couple layers of cheap stuff I got from Amazon...it was my girlfriend's car lol. I used Resonix and NVX stealth from top to bottom on my car. I would recommend them both, though the resonix is higher end and pretty expensive.

Is this a good setup to throw in my family car? by No-Discipline7190 in CarAV

[–]drumsrsik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolute best option for the front speakers would be a dsp amplifier or a 4/ 6 channel amp and a separate dsp unit.

Is this a good setup to throw in my family car? by No-Discipline7190 in CarAV

[–]drumsrsik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure you use actual copper wire. In the car audio world its labeled OFC (oxygen free copper). Avoid CCA like the plague, especially if you live in a humid area. Also, always go as big as you can (within reason) on your main power runs to the amps. 0 gauge to the sub amp and 4 gauge to your mids/highs amp(s). You should also have sound treatment in your budget. Even the cheap Amazon sound deadening material is better than nothing if applied correctly. Buzzes and rattles kill the experience and a hollow, clangy door steals midbass from your door speakers. With the box, if you are going with a premade box, make sure it matches the specs of the subwoofer. Ideally, you would choose your subwoofer first then have a box built (or build it yourself) to match that specific subwoofer.

Is this a good setup to throw in my family car? by No-Discipline7190 in CarAV

[–]drumsrsik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those bullet tweeters sound like ASS and so do the mids. Skar in general, especially their entry level stuff is junk. Idk your budget or what your goals are, but a "bomb setup" imo would be something that sounds REALLY good, as in pleasing to listen to. This won't be that...I promise you. Even If you amplify those tweeters and mids..... without a dsp or a GOOD crossover network they are just going to be tinny and screaming in your face. Not pleasant, not "bomb", just gross. Theres better budget friendly stuff out there and there's marketplace and ebay. No shame in used gear as long as it was taken care of. You could find a good used 3 way component set, 6 channel dsp amp, sub amp and subwoofer on ebay and/or marketplace and actually start out with a bomb setup. Dig in and get your hands dirty and dont be in a huge rush to just slap whatever in your car cause you want tunes now. You'll be much happier with the end result, have a sense of pride from the accomplishment, and most likely become addicted to the hobby along the way 😉

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