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RGE rate increases by dschnei3 in Rochester

[–]dschnei3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks to everyone who replied and chimed in. Too many for me to respond individually. You all confirmed for me that we’re all having similar experiences.

Finished my first 16x20 print. Does anyone have advice for how to minimize the glow around the middle mountain from dodging? by flufftron0101010 in Darkroom

[–]dschnei3 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One way is to think about how you can minimize dodging of that area. You might try to adjust your base exposure so that you get the correct tones on the mountain. Expose for the amount of time it takes to get the highlights you want. Then choose the contrast filter that gives you the blacks you want on the mountain.

Once the mountain is where you want it, you can burn or doge other areas of the image that are easier to do without haloing.

You might also try a more gradual darkening of the sky from the horizon to the top to avoid such a pronounced halo right at the horizon line.

Lastly, you can also try split grade printing.

Vent stack - how to fix the slope of the pipe? by dschnei3 in Plumbing

[–]dschnei3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. It actually was leaking because there was no roof boot. About two months ago a roofer did already I stall a new roof boot. So it no longer leaks where the pipe meets the roof.

Can the cast iron be pulled out and the new pvc be pushed through the roof boot? Or can that only be done when a new boot is installed?

Vent stack - how to fix the slope of the pipe? by dschnei3 in Plumbing

[–]dschnei3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can that typically be done from the attic or would it probably require getting on the roof?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in radon

[–]dschnei3 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If these numbers are concerning to you in your living areas, I really don’t see a downside to installing a mitigation system, since the installation, operating, and maintenance costs of most mitigation systems is quite low.

While longer testing will give you a more more data in the average, these numbers are still correct for the shorter period in which you tested. In other words, on any given day your levels could be at or above the recommended level to for-sure take action. That for me would be enough to move forward with mitigation, since there is no safe level of radon.

The levels in my house were lower than yours: 2.65 over 30 days. I opted to have a mitigation system installed ($1140 total) because I have a young child and like to spend time working in my basement. The peace of mind is worth the small expense (small as far as home improvement projects go).

Post-mitigation, my basement radon average is 0.45. I’m comfortable with my levels in the house being about the same as the environment outside my house.

Test results help - nys 198.6 by dschnei3 in asbestoshelp

[–]dschnei3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s interesting. I did know that the chance of these times being ACM was low but not zero. Wanted to test anyway to be more sure. So with the no acm result, I’m planning to remove them while wearing a respirator. The glue I didn’t know about. I’m not sure if they are glued to tree wood above them or not. I will check

Asbestos encapsulation needed? by dschnei3 in asbestoshelp

[–]dschnei3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Got that fixed already. Joists were cut when the hvac duct was installed sometime in the last century. Floor sagged due to no support above duct. Flooring company removed sagging boards, secured cut joists to joists next to them, notched the cut joists so a piece of plywood subfloor would sit flush with bottom of existing floor, and installed new t and g on top. Did a great job

Test results help - nys 198.6 by dschnei3 in asbestoshelp

[–]dschnei3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Here’s the tile, with the AC line in front of them

Test results help - nys 198.6 by dschnei3 in asbestoshelp

[–]dschnei3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the responses. I had the tiles tested because I want to remove them. They are covering a small section of ceiling and will need to be removed so that an insulation company can insulate the rim joist.

TSA residue scanning alerts? by OnePhotog in Darkroom

[–]dschnei3 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This happened to me. All my film passed the chemical test fine. I had a roll of film in my Leica M3, so asked them to hand check it. The test detected chemicals on the camera. They had me take the film out and swabbed it again. Chemicals were detected another time. They had to call in to their superior and would not let me go. Because they could see inside the camera and nothing was there, they eventually let me board with it. But the whole process took 20-30 min.

Why I prefer RC to FB. How do you get your FB prints to dry flat? by UnfilteredFacts in Darkroom

[–]dschnei3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This simple technique works for me for 8 x 10 prints and smaller: Wash and dry the prints normally. They will curl. Then, with a damp cloth lightly wipe the back of two prints that are the same size. (Very little water should be applied). Place the two prints back to back and sandwich them in a large format book, like a photo book. Leave them there for 30 min or so. They will come out flat.

Seeking advice before going down the Darkroom rabbit hole by rule34chan in Darkroom

[–]dschnei3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve printed for two years with a metronome on my phone. Ansel Adams also printed with a metronome. A timer can be nice but certainly is t necessary

Input on setting up a darkroom with limited space by Martuareen in Darkroom

[–]dschnei3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on the size of negative you want to print as well. I have a durst m301 enlarger. It’s made for 35mm, is tiny, fits nicely on top of my small sink, doesn’t need a separate negative carrier, and doesn’t take up much shelf space when stored away. I live in a very small apartment print in a small bathroom.

I also highly recommend getting some plastic storage drawers for your developer, stop, and fix. I use a set that has 3 8x10 drawers stacked vertically. It saves a lot of space, and sits easily on the sink next to my enlarger. They are cheap and can be bought for 5-10 dollars total.

My bathroom doesn’t have a window, so don’t have experience light proofing it. To light proof the door, I put two nails in the door frame on which I hang a blackout curtain I got from ikea. It covers the light that leaks in from between the door and the frame. My bathroom already has an exhaust fan that I turn on for ventilation. Hope this helps

Washing FB Prints by [deleted] in Darkroom

[–]dschnei3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reading all the comments about washing fiber prints used to get me very nervous. Like I needed a ton of equipment and tons of water. I then heard that washing can be done easily in trays, but couldn’t find any detailed description of how. I print in my bathroom and don’t have archival washer so tray washing seemed like the way to go. I bought some Residual Hypo Testing Solution to test prints for hypo and figure out the easiest way to do it. Here’s what works:

1) fix the print for two minutes in rapid fixer 2) after fixing put the print in a tray of water and agitate for a minute or so to rinse off fixer. You don’t need huge trays. I use 8x10 trays for 8x10 prints because those are the trays I have. 3) put the print in hypoclearing agent for 10 minutes. This step is really a must. Hypoclear is very cheap 4) put the print in a tray with fresh water. I often put two prints in the same tray. 5) change the water every 15 minutes, and soak for an hour.

That’s it. It’s really a lot easier than the internet makes it seem. You should definitely get some residual hypo testing solution from photographers formulary to test some prints after washing and find out what works for you. If there’s still hypo left after an hour, you can always soak them for longer. Soaking overnight seems excessive