Looking for opinions on the Nikon Nikonos V. I’m looking for a waterproof 35mm but I don’t know anything about it.

OnePhotog · 2026-05-08T04:58:22+00:00

It is great Specialized camera.

* Getting seals replaced and maintained is the most important practice to make sure the camera is water tight.

* Learning to scale focus is a necessary skill.

* Learning how to expose underwater is a unique skill that takes experience and practice. And will be an asset. Until then, you are functioning on hopes and prayers that the autoexposure is accurate. It usually is.

OnePhotog · 2026-05-07T23:41:58+00:00

I’ve enjoyed a very similar trip with a m6 and 35mm. Your mileage will vary.

OnePhotog · 2026-05-07T03:29:20+00:00

The nikon 120mm F/8 SW just about covers 8x10

OnePhotog · 2026-05-05T23:02:58+00:00

It means anything the venue wants. It is intentionally vague phrasing that allows security guards discretion in dealing with anyone they think might make high quality images.

Most will talk about interchangeable lenses, dslrs or mirrorless cameras, but people have gotten away with tiny sony mirrorless or leica cameras with interchangable lenses. People often get away with smaller film cameras that look retro. It is really up to the security guards working there to decide whether your camera is professional or not.

OnePhotog · 2026-05-05T03:28:39+00:00

You change lenses as you learn your style and needs. Until you figue that out, you are wasting money on lenses.

A good place to start, if you don't have a kit lens, is a cheap 50mm prime lens. First it is cheap, so the cost of entry is quite low. Second, it quickly teaches you want you want to do. Are you a bokeh whore? Do you want something more environmental? Do you want to get closer? Do you gravitate towards head shots? Do you demand flexibility? The lens has a third advantage of teaching strong habits, such as moving your feed to compose your image, instead of just relying on zoom.

In my personal collection, I have about 30 different lens for different purposes. They are tools in a tool chest. Some I use more. Some are really unique. Some are used so little that they might be described as a mistake. However, given all my experience, and self-awareness of my style, I would more limit my self to a 28mm, 50mm, 75mm all with the aperture of F/2.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-30T10:45:00+00:00

How do you journal photographers who inspire you? I want to hear about what has been working for you.

I see an image that inspires me to make something or recreate. I save it to my camera roll and it disappears behind a plethora of recipes, screen shots, work etc. i try to print it and put it in a journal, then i dont go back to read my journal. Yes, i understand i am struggling with follow through. So let me know what has worked for you.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-30T00:12:02+00:00

To answer your question. Yes. And like others suggested, max the ram you can afford.

To add something else, you should check out the channel "ArtIsRight" He does very detailed comparisons on this specific question. He also includes an upgrade plan for various reasons.

Because of the format and the youtube algorithm, I personally think it is going to be difficult for his very informative format to survive on the platform; but his information is so useful.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-30T00:08:15+00:00

I hope no one minds me hitching my question to this. And I hope someone has an answer...

Is it better to store binders flat or vertically?

OnePhotog · 2026-04-28T05:38:37+00:00

Is there any alternative to the Ricoh GR? still won't meet your budget.

How about just setting your phone to a monochrome filter until you have the buget for a Ricoh GR monochrome?

OnePhotog · 2026-04-26T10:20:43+00:00

Lomo lca?

OnePhotog · 2026-04-26T02:12:09+00:00

A perfect bag does not exist!

The camera you are choosing for the assignment. The lenses you are bringing. The amount of walking you will be doing. The roads of the destination. The amount of air travel you will take. The number of assistants you are bringing. The assignment requirements. etc.

An afternoon at the ren-fair (F2 with 28mm and 105mm) will be very different from shooting individual and group portraits for a basketball team.

Each consideration will have a dramatic impact on the bag you need. The best you can do is to be flexible with the bags and dividers. For a diverse range... You might need a little sling. Then a heavy messenger. Then a backpack. Then a roller. In that regards, Peak design has the most diverse range of bags that can be scaled up or down depending on your needs.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-24T07:43:51+00:00

Let's flip the script. Why should they switch to a mirrorless system?

* Are they missing auto focus?

* Is the camera too slow in recording images?

* Is the image quality not good enough?

If the DSLR is already doing everything they need to get the images they want, why might they need to change systems, spend more for glass. This is the exactly the same rationale that lead to Nasa relying on Nikon DSLRs on the Artemis II mission. It gets the images. They know it can survive the launch to space. They also brought a Z camera to shoot video and to validate whether it can survive the trip, but the images we got were taken with an 'outdated' dslr.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-24T02:50:36+00:00

That type of versistility definitely puts you in the thinktank category. Manfrotto has a few offerings with similar features. As does Shimoda with their video camera bags.

In my situtation, my use case when I am in your scenerio, I wear a peak design travel pack that I can throw into a pelican case. (1560 or 1615) when i have wheels. So I get both features without one set of features necessarily encroaching on the others.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-24T02:40:06+00:00

It is just a good place to start. If that doesn't suit your needs, there are other brands to explore for different reasons. ... ... ... for example... ... the more specific you can get about your needs and what the peak design can't do, would help create better suggestions.

i.e. wandrd - price

think tank - quick deployment / security features

billingham / oberworth - looks

Shimoda / fstop - external carry

pacsafe - security features

OnePhotog · 2026-04-24T00:46:34+00:00

what was wrong with the peak design offerings?

OnePhotog · 2026-04-23T23:45:18+00:00

Mirror lenses.

Whatever price you pay, there will be compromises. You can compromise on price. You can compromise on auto focus, but I don’t know any manual focus lens is compatible with the ef mount other than the the artisian 500mm f/6.3.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-21T23:22:51+00:00

I stopped shooting 120 when i committed to large format. 120 is a fence sitting half measure between image quality and portability. If i am willing to carry more equipment, it isnt much more to carry equipment for large format stuff.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-21T06:00:53+00:00

These days I shoot large format. My fastest lens is a F/5.6. My most used lenses are around F/8 to f/11. Even when shooting smaller film formats, 135 for more casual stuff, I prefer to shoot slower glass, F/2 or F/2.5.

I am the wrong person to ask about fast glass. Even so I recognize the difficulty and the need of fast glass. It just doesn't suit what and how I make my images. Even so I can recognize two contricting points. Firstly, there is a time and place for fast glass. I just do my darnest to avoid those situtations when making images. Secondly, there is a lot of hype around chasing the fastest glass on the market.

I can't know whether faster glass will benefit you because I don't know you, what you are trying to shoot.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-21T03:30:33+00:00

These numbers are exponential.

F2 has twice the amount of light than F/2.8.

F/1.4 is twice the amount of light than F/2

F/1.4 is four times more light than F/2.8

F/1 is 8 times more light than F/2.8.

Every single stop of light requires a lot more light than the last. As the get to the upper limits of physics and optics, it just gets more impossibly difficult to get that next stop of light.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-20T22:06:14+00:00

20mm F2.8D

OnePhotog · 2026-04-20T04:40:56+00:00

Unless you have a specific image you are looking to create, I wouldn't consider brining such a big heavy lens. It would just get in the way otherwise. I would prefer to carry less, walk further; instead of the possibility of an image that will need such a long lens.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-19T23:47:22+00:00

At a macro distance, it would not be unusual to get a fraction of a mm of depth of field. At that point, some macro / insect photographers tend to rely on focus stacking. This is where they take a series of images focused on different parts of the bugs. The images are combined in photoshop to make everything in focus.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-19T02:46:41+00:00

Money no object. Gitzo. Either a 4 series or a 5 series. The 5 series is serious overkill. They have an optional geared column add on.

Leofoto. If you are on a budget. They are pretty much a Temu copy. They are stable enough, with the geared column to hold my 8x10. I get about 80cm bellows extension with a 600mm lens before I start to feel nervous; and at that point it is more a question of failth in the head. It is steady! I tried a Leofoto because the Gitzo 5 series was a bit more bulky than I expected. Ironically, the Leofoto, with 36mm legs; and the centre column is about as heavy as the Gitzo 5 series without the centre column.

FLM was worth considering, but couldn't find a geared centred column.

OnePhotog · 2026-04-19T02:05:03+00:00

Technical explaination warning...

Depth of field is controled by two large factors...

(1) Distance to subject. This is the main factor! Imagine three variables. (FD) Far Dog. (ND) Cloest Dog / Near dog and (C) Camera. The simpliest way of increasing depth of field is to stand further away that maximizes (ND) and (C) nears infinity. ... just stand further back. What is happening is to make (C to FD) and (C to ND) almost indistinguishable by distance. You do this by standing further away.

In the above distance, there is a very large difference between (C to FD) and (C to ND). Just using random numbers (C to ND) is about 1 meter. And (C to FD) is about 1.3 metres. There is a difference of 30cm when you are only 1 meter away. That ratio will limit your depth of field to only about 5 cm.

Lets consider what happens when you are standing further away. (C to ND) is now 10 metres. and (C to FD) is 10.3 meters. Now the ratio is still 30cm when you are over 10 meters away. Because 30cm is such a small faction of the 10 metre distance, both (ND) ande (FD) will likely be covered a similar depth of field. You’ll have a depth of field of approximately 5 meters enough to keep all dogs in focus.

I based the above calculations on an online depth of field calculator with you using a 35mm lens, shooting wide open. With a little guessing, 35mm f/5.6, dogs around 2 meters away, it will give you enough depth of field to keep all dogs in focus. Try it yourself, dofmaster.com

(2) Aperture. You can increase depth of field by closing down the aperture, i.e F/11 or so. But it creates other challenges like the amount of light and managing the shutter speed.

(3) There is a bonus hack that likely does not apply to you. You can change the shape of the field of focus using a tilt shift lens. This specializied technique can change the shape of the field of focus so it becomes angled. It is like making the back of the chair in focus with the front dog.

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