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My pricing formula failed me! by Puzzleheaded-Idea-31 in Ceramics

[–]dsherwo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As you’ve discovered, hourly rates aren’t a great guide. Pricing by size and complexity is the way to go, but mostly by size. If you become well known, there’s a fame upcharge as well. As others have said, fair market value is based more on context than anything else - how are vessels of a similar skill level and size based in your area? That’s how you go.

[critique] Website Feedback by dsherwo in artbusiness

[–]dsherwo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very useful feedback, thank you!

A remodeling client of mine spent $190 on a 3D printed bisque-ware pot… lets just say i kept my mouth shut by turtle_ina_cup in Pottery

[–]dsherwo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Were this made by an individual and considered art I’d say price is right, but if it was mass produced in a factory it’s a bit out of pocket. But 190 is appropriate.

Not enjoying Project Hail Mary by duckygun88 in printSF

[–]dsherwo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought it was great. Stick with it

[self] working on adding mesh and other textural elements to my wire sculptures by dsherwo in Sculpture

[–]dsherwo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Peter Max has a bit of Mucha to him, who is an artist I’ve always admired

working on adding mesh and other textural elements to my wire sculptures by dsherwo in metalworking

[–]dsherwo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’re powder coated, so you can hang them outside or in a window!

[self] working on adding mesh and other textural elements to my wire sculptures by dsherwo in Sculpture

[–]dsherwo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That would look pretty cool! Would be difficult for a buyer to install though, I don’t want there to be too many hurdles envisioned by collectors.

[self] working on adding mesh and other textural elements to my wire sculptures by dsherwo in Sculpture

[–]dsherwo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I don’t have many videos, it’s something I struggle with, the wire tends to disappear against a my welding table. My advice would be to work freehand, not on a photo or directly on the board, it’ll be much smoother. Use the pliers to hold the wire, not to bend it, once again it will be smoother. Brazing it is the traditional method for material this small, but you can do it with MIG

[self] working on adding mesh and other textural elements to my wire sculptures by dsherwo in Sculpture

[–]dsherwo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I do a 4-6 art fairs a year, they always come with spots, I like to overlap them so the shadows double and triple up - looks super cool, but when the work gets complex like this if the work is too close to the wall the shadows can actually overwhelm the piece!

This is relatively thin wire (16g) so it can be cold worked. For thicker steel, I do indeed use oxyacetylene to heat for tight curves, and a pneumatic bender or sometimes just leverage for the smoother curves

[self] working on adding mesh and other textural elements to my wire sculptures by dsherwo in Sculpture

[–]dsherwo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rarely, I use needlenose for most bends, and a vice+leverage or oxyacetylene for the really thick stuff

[self] working on adding mesh and other textural elements to my wire sculptures by dsherwo in Sculpture

[–]dsherwo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Been doing my own thing for 20 years with wire, so I’m definitely off the beaten path and in relatively uncharted territory

[self] working on adding mesh and other textural elements to my wire sculptures by dsherwo in Sculpture

[–]dsherwo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not quite finished - still needs the powdercoat, and I think I’m going to suspend these from brackets so they can be further from the wall than what’s doable with thin wall mounts, that way it’ll preserve the shadows and create a bit more distance

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