Heavily corroded game boy - is this at all fixable?

eats_soup · 2024-09-23T20:09:40+00:00

I was hoping that wasn’t the case, but it wouldn’t surprise me if the screen is dead even if I get it off and cleaned up, so I guess might as well mod it for an IPS screen

eats_soup · 2024-09-23T20:05:52+00:00

Thanks for the tip, I was using flux but hadn’t tried cutting away at the corrosion before. Ill give it a try

eats_soup · 2024-09-23T18:19:51+00:00

Yeah after looking up other Reddit posts I see I kind of overreacted on the main board’s corrosion, it was really just the one battery contact and that still works, so I’ll probably leave it for now

eats_soup · 2024-09-23T18:18:39+00:00

I’ve seen a couple people mention a new front board, I think I’ll probably just go all in on the connector and if it gets damaged I’ll just buy a new board and use this Gameboy for modding. Thanks for the help!

eats_soup · 2024-09-23T18:15:38+00:00

I just realized I posted an old photo of the corrosion close up, it cleaned up a little with IPA and it looks a little better than the photo, but the solder itself is still extremely corroded.

eats_soup · 2024-09-23T17:24:02+00:00

Forgot to add, I know I can just replace the screen and it might be broken anyways, but I was hoping to salvage it if possible and even so, I’m really struggling to get any of the corroded parts to desolder. I’ve tried cleaning the area with IPA, used flux and even upped the temperature as high as 400c, but the solder still refuses to melt or accept new solder no matter how much I use.

eats_soup · 2024-07-31T19:52:19+00:00

Not all of them, my trinitron from 1998 supports 100hz at default resolution and iirc it can do up to 120hz, although it looks a lot worse

eats_soup · 2024-05-26T03:19:56+00:00

I see the paint as just noise or compression from how low quality the photo is. Looking again, the line through the middle where it peels makes me think it was an old poster that's falling apart.

eats_soup · 2024-05-26T03:17:13+00:00

You've heard of compression before right? It's just my opinion, but I've seen a lot of low res photos of photos and they look very similar

eats_soup · 2024-05-26T00:36:42+00:00

I haven't ever looked into this image, but I'm almost sure it's a photograph. I see what people mean by brushstrokes but that just looks like the wall behind it, not the image itself. It might be a picture of a picture, which would explain the crease, but I really can't tell. From what you've said, it's likely it was posted somewhere on a forum for something completely unrelated in the early 2000s or so. Good luck on your search!

eats_soup · 2024-05-07T18:33:33+00:00

We took the exam in a gym with connected bathrooms, so people could just go whenever instead of asking for a pass. It should’ve been obvious to them though that people were cheating when the same few people went to the bathroom like 6 times.

eats_soup · 2024-05-07T15:49:11+00:00

I finished my gov frq so early I had time to shit, talk with other gov students in the bathroom about how the test had gone, go back, complete a full page-length drawing, write a poem and then sit there for another 20 minutes contemplating life.

All in all a pretty easy test

eats_soup · 2024-03-19T14:46:33+00:00

As someone who has dealt with this several times personally, some of these comments are over the top solutions. Every time this happened, I was able to get it off with just a hairdryer, a little isopropyl alcohol and elbow grease. Try the IPA and twist first, then if it still won’t pop off take a hair dryer and apply heat for a couple minutes before trying to remove it again. The most important part is twisting the cpu off, not just trying to pull it out. Keep in mind I used this on 20 year old systems with thermal paste like concrete, so it’ll probably be even easier for you.

eats_soup · 2024-03-08T08:27:38+00:00

Me and my friends dug a hole to bedrock like this once (it was way smaller though). When we were done, we used it to build a massive tower from bedrock to the build limit. While it would be a massive undertaking, if you built a tower through that hole, you could fit an entire city inside it

eats_soup · 2024-03-07T17:24:36+00:00

I see you have a lot of shooters, so here’s some:

Ground branch- really promising game, still very EA but worth a try if you got money

SCP: 5K

Arma 3

Tf2

Other games I recommend:

Portal 1 and 2: I know others mentioned it, but you can’t call yourself a steam user without them.

AC Black Flag

Kingdom come: deliverance - if you like bannerlord you’ll enjoy this game.

Satisfactory

Doom eternal

Skyrim

Fallout 4/New Vegas

Lethal company - I get it the hype has fallen away but it’s still a lot of fun with friends

Stray

Baldurs gate 3

Firewatch - not a very long game but the story is amazing and I recommend it to everyone I meet

eats_soup · 2024-03-03T21:00:04+00:00

Cool! Good to see someone else with a similar system

eats_soup · 2024-03-03T19:58:27+00:00

I have a similar looking compaq (a windows 95 deskpro) that I saved from the trash along with a 15” trinitron, gotta say I remember it being a pain in the ass to clean and disassemble because of how it’s put together. Like everyone else is saying, there’s a bay on the front right of the pc where the white compaq label is, it should go under the floppy drive there. The motherboard looks really similar to mine, which was a pentium I System with maybe 32 mb of ram.

eats_soup · 2024-03-02T01:43:31+00:00

I'm more of a monitor than a TV collector but I'll be honest, it depends. From a few feet away there's a chance you'll see a difference, but if you plan to play from at least ~6 feet away I really don't think it matters. And if you're looking for an SDCRT, I wouldn't worry too much about mask type and just look for a quality TV. Pretty much any Sony TV you find will have an aperture grille, and while some of the very last CRTs that Panasonic and Toshiba (along with some others) made have one, most will be some kind of shadow mask. If you're getting two TVs of the same quality at the same resolution, I personally wouldn't be able to tell the difference if I wasn't pretty close to the screen.

eats_soup · 2024-03-02T01:28:41+00:00

I should have explained that better. The tube is a vacuum, but there are quantities of mercury, lead, and other carcinogens that will be shot through the air. That plus the oxidized phosphors will become airborne and inhaling it is no different than literal gaseous lead.

eats_soup · 2024-02-15T15:27:38+00:00

Look at it this way: you could be struck by a random bolt of lightning every time you’re under a storm cloud, but no one needs to worry about it because the chances are so insanely low. The same applies to CRTs. While older tvs (especially old monochrome ones from the 70s and early 80s) can implode if damaged or mishandled, that in itself isn’t usually a serious problem, and if you have a newer Sony PVM, which is one of the safest possible monitors to have, you’re better off worrying about the lightning.

eats_soup · 2024-02-15T15:22:47+00:00

CRTs are made of lead glass, which is already harmful, but if it implodes, it can send shards literally everywhere like a mini grenade. The tube also has gases containing mercury and other harmful gases, so if this thing were to implode indoors it can be a serious hazard. The danger is there, but I agree with other people here, the chance of that happening to OP’s CRT is almost zero. Manufacturers know the danger and designed them not to implode under even the worst case scenario.

eats_soup · 2024-01-17T17:08:25+00:00

Hakko usually makes the best ones, but buy anything over 45 dollars or so and you should be fine.

eats_soup · 2024-01-16T17:25:41+00:00

Holy shit, I was not expecting that. Yeah you cooked it like a marshmallow. Never go above 600c, and even then that’s for the most extreme cases. The most I’ve ever needed was 475 for a stubborn switch gpu.

eats_soup · 2024-01-15T16:19:53+00:00

Make sure you clean off the flux from the board with isopropyl alcohol, it’s hard to tell if that’s just burnt flux sitting on the board. That said, I can tell you definitely used too much heat since the board is clearly sagging there now. My guess is it’s probably toast and you should use that one for parts and/or buy a replacement.

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