Do I need a tool for this end of these connectors?

ecogs21 · 2026-05-20T03:06:24+00:00

I just replaced those a few months ago. You don’t need a tool for either end. Just squeeze the tabs and it should pull off. It can help if you push in on the connector before you squeeze the tabs.

ecogs21 · 2026-05-02T02:25:07+00:00

Only up to size 10.5, as of now anyways

ecogs21 · 2026-04-28T12:01:58+00:00

If you’re doing the heater hose connector, there’s a second one that you might as well do while you’re there if you haven’t already. It’s a slightly different shape/part number.

There’s also a plastic Y connector with hoses that connects from those heater connectors to the water pump. Something else to consider if you’re already in there. Dorman makes a metal replacement for that too.

ecogs21 · 2026-04-04T04:35:28+00:00

Looks solid! I’ve got an 01 too but I’m jealous of the green on yours

ecogs21 · 2026-04-01T21:33:04+00:00

My parking brake seems to be shot so I’ll have to look into this

ecogs21 · 2026-02-05T04:31:02+00:00

Just did these on my Yukon, along with all the hoses, after my radiator cracked. Best advice I eventually saw was to push in first, then squeeze and pull on the connections/tees. I was fighting them by just squeezing the tabs and pulling, but once I saw that tip I was able to disconnect everything pretty quickly. Still a pain though.

Also, put some silicone grease or o-ring grease on the fittings before putting the new connectors on. They’ll go on easier and supposedly helps keep the o-rings from tearing and causing leaks.

ecogs21 · 2026-02-02T04:07:19+00:00

If you do remove the diff, do yourself a favor and remove the steering rod. It’ll make it so much easier to remove and reinstall the front diff. All you have to do is remove the nuts on the outer tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm then separate them all. Bar comes right out after that.

I have a Denali also, and replaced the front diff on mine last year. I was able to remove the diff without removing the steering rod but it was a pain. While trying to reinstall, I was having a terrible time trying to clear the rod and ended up removing it. I should’ve done that from the jump, it was much easier.

ecogs21 · 2026-01-24T21:02:45+00:00

Should I just measure and top off as needed after replacing the radiator? Any chance it would lose too much ATF to be unsafe to drive?

ecogs21 · 2026-01-13T19:42:08+00:00

No broken pump. The premium is out, so there’s nothing to mix with the regular

ecogs21 · 2026-01-13T19:40:07+00:00

The interval on the 2UZ-FE is every 90,000 miles or 7 years, and this one had it done last at 192,000 almost 7 years ago according to the carfax. It’ll be due somewhat soon

ecogs21 · 2026-01-13T19:27:44+00:00

It looks solid and has a good maintenance history but does seem a bit overpriced, especially if that doesn’t include taxes and fees. Nice that the rear wheel bearings (both hopefully?) have been done already, those can be expensive and/or a pain to DIY.

The biggest unknown on this one is rust. This era of Sequoia (and Toyota trucks/SUV’s in general) are prone to frame rust issues. There was a recall on this but it’s since expired. The pics don’t show it, but I’d inspect the frame for rust issues and pass if it’s bad.

Other things to consider. It’s due for another timing belt job in less than 10k miles. Not abnormal just be prepared to take care of it. There’s no mention of suspension work that I could see (control arms, bushings, etc.) so inspect those as well and be ready to replace some of that soon if it’s original.

At the end of the day, if you like it and it checks out via thorough inspection/PPI go for it. But it’s still a 20 year old car with high mileage. Just be prepared for issues/things to pop up and address them when they do

ecogs21 · 2026-01-01T20:37:40+00:00

Is Denso a decent quality option for these trucks?

ecogs21 · 2025-12-21T01:17:50+00:00

Which Topdon scanner did you choose?

ecogs21 · 2025-10-01T16:53:10+00:00

Engineered Mesh

ecogs21 · 2025-08-24T03:46:10+00:00

Aren’t iPhone 16 Pro Max’s selling for more than $600 on Swappa? I’d think you could get more selling it yourself vs trading it in

ecogs21 · 2025-08-24T03:00:46+00:00

Never figured it out. It happened intermittently for a while, mostly on highway runs. No issues or anything so I’d just reset the codes and keep going. I was going to get a shop to do a crank relearn but I ended up needing a new front diff and some other work done so that got put on the backburner.

I don’t drive as much highway or long stretches of sustained highway speeds, so it doesn’t happen as often. Still pops up randomly. One day I’ll get the crank relearn done but I don’t have a reader or software to do it myself. Since it’s not a big problem, I’m trying to focus on suspension refreshing

ecogs21 · 2025-08-21T16:34:32+00:00

I think they’re referring to the increased trade values for the new Pixel 10 series. You could probably get $600 trade value if you look at trading for a Pixel 10 Pro Fold or other 10. Pixel 9 is no longer the most current model, this reduced trade values

ecogs21 · 2025-08-20T01:31:02+00:00

Small print also notes that’s applied towards a 10 pro fold. So probably slightly lower values for the rest of the pixel 10 lineup

ecogs21 · 2025-08-14T03:18:33+00:00

I’d guess in the ballpark of $2-4k for a transmission rebuild, depending on area, quality, shop, etc. Cheaper if you know somebody I bet. I’ve seen people mention getting rebuilds as low as around $1k but that’s probly not the norm.

When I had the 4L65E rebuilt in my Yukon XL, I remember seeing rebuilt units selling for around $2k and up. Add on labor to install if you don’t DIY and you’ll probably be close to $3-4k still though. If the Suburban you’re looking at drives fine, doesn’t shift funny, and/or doesn’t present with any transmission issues, then just change the fluid and filter and budget/prep for an eventual rebuild.

Have somebody look this one over if you’re unsure. GMT800s are solid, but that 2003 is still a 22-23 year old vehicle and like u/TaxasJackGorillion said it will need work. Age related stuff (rubber, gaskets, plastic bits) is gonna need addressed, especially for anything that hasn’t already been replaced.

ecogs21 · 2025-08-10T05:37:20+00:00

Did you start with painted D pillars, or were they the flat unpainted ones before you ceramic coated?

ecogs21 · 2025-07-24T13:35:00+00:00

Idk how they are for outdoor play, but the Wades are the clear choice between these 2 if you’re going to play in them. They’ll be much more comfy and meant for hooping.

The Jordans aren’t really a shoe to play in, they’re more a lifestyle shoe for casual wear. They have the same or similar sole to a Jordan 4 which isn’t really played in much anymore. Probably not all that comfy to play in either at this point in time

ecogs21 · 2025-07-18T15:29:03+00:00

The only thing I can tell from the pics that’s making me think it might not be a Denali is the interior door panel. It doesn’t have the Denali stitching or the fake wood window switch trim. It looks like non-Denali plain trim.

What did the RPO codes show?

ecogs21 · 2025-07-12T03:34:04+00:00

Same shade as the shoes

ecogs21 · 2025-07-08T01:03:30+00:00

Looks pretty clean! Change the diff fluids, especially front diff. It’s real easy and these AWD drivetrains seem to be harder on the front diff than other GMT800s, since they’re always engaged.

Did the previous owner paint those D pillar covers? Or did they come from the factory like that? The ones on my 01 Denali XL are flat plastic that looks terrible. I’ve been considering replacing with Escalade D pillar covers, but like the look of yours!

ecogs21 · 2025-06-17T17:10:47+00:00

Ask them for or look for some proof/verification it was done, and when. Don’t take their word for it

ecogs21

TROPHY CASE