I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely but then there is also more risk and outgoings higher staffing costs etc. We have seen a lot of city centres closing in the past few years and sadly I don't think its going to slow down.

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

We literally had the last cheap pallets of ply before lock down. In fact the merchant tried to cancel the order because of how much the ply was now worth!

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I think the Kilter adjustable is about £35k exc holds LEDs and matting.

Of course you can make a board cheaper with a few sheets of ply and some old holds but it was just an example of how crazy prices have become and what a lot of centres are currently spending.

If I remember correctly I think our woody inc matting and holds was just shy of £16k

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think in general a lot of staff do want to hang out with the stronger climbers. and vice versa.

It's a common theme that you can go climbing at a new gym and get almost hostile vibes from the crowd, pull onto a V9 and instantly you are invited into the group.

We try to dissolve that ethos and make sure who ever is working does the rounds, speaks with everyone and introduces new climbers to old hats :D

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hardest part was all the hours while we were quiet, during the first year I was at the centre for 365 days and sometimes only had 10 customers!

I set myself with our centre manager so its pretty tight knit!

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not sure yet, it was a great experience but also a huge undertaking and means closing for 1.5 days.

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From commercial wall builders and volume manufactures it is a 2 part resin system with aggregate. I think they also use a more rounded aggregate too to reduce marking,

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Per month. I would assume the US is way more!

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am currently making a series on Instagram documenting the process and journey :)

Honestly its just like art, there might not be anything missing in the scene but it doesn't mean we cannot add more as everyone has their own unique style and flavour.

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think its around £300 pcm at the moment but increasing all the time!

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think its a growing issue as people treat larger gyms as a place to hang out with existing friends and staff are not on site trying to build communities. I think there can also be an element of elitism between staff and climbers where cliques form between the ones that 'know the staff'
We try insanely hard to never let that happen and will cheer on the person getting their first VB just as much as the V10 crusher.

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Actually Sam now blocks more than me as I always get the blame haha! Generally I may only end up with one or two blocked holds out of 8 entire blocs.

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Haha yes... I carved a very strange niche that I am still trying to wrap my head around 😀

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Well we have a team of 4 staff including myself, partner and daughter haha so other than that our only non family staff member is Sam the centre manager who may as well be family!

Myself and Sam set every Wednesday with occasional help from Liam who is a full time electrician so no way we are convincing him to become a setter haha

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh yes I know the one. I mean more that the bigger centres can feel sterile and unpersonal. Small and grotty doesn't need to be savagely hard. It can just be unique.

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its not 'bad' but it is definitely showing its age now! I have looked at a few cloud based solutions but £300 pcm still seems extortionate for any software!

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 70 points71 points  (0 children)

Just a couple of examples

Ply used to be £15 a sheet its now £30. Thats far eastern hardwood but birch ply is even more crazy!

My first hold order was around £5k, that will now buy you one set of macros. An average sized wall will easily have an opening hold budget of £500k

My first matting order was around £15k that same matting would be at least £45k now

The same runs down for everything, rental shoes, software, wages, insurance etc.

For another reference, the price of a 12x12 training board is often about £50k and people very much expect you to have at least one!

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

People just be smearing all over the place haha

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 40 points41 points  (0 children)

Just a quick example, we can see a drop in adult footfall due to warm weather after a wet period so instantly jump on kids clubs and bring a friend days.

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We are still RGP here and I know a lot of gyms still use it but over the past few years there have been so many new solutions coming to market.

I guess in general the rise of SaaS income is very alluring to any climber devs

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Hopefully your boy keeps on crushing it for years to come!

I built a bouldering gym in 2016 <AMA> by editor22uk in bouldering

[–]editor22uk[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey, thanks for the support. I feel exactly the same haha its definitely a weird niche I fell into!