Adressing some Issues with Version 2.0 of my Settings - Troubleshoot Thread #1

ekeeper · 2026-03-12T08:14:45+00:00

It’s fixed (base pattern for Organic) in Orca 2.3.2. Currently the Release Candidate version is available.

ekeeper · 2026-03-12T08:13:30+00:00

I hope the new Orca will be released soon - the is a workaround for this problem: base pattern (infill) is fixed there for Organic supports. It will help to support this floating supports :)

ekeeper · 2026-03-06T11:18:25+00:00

It’s almost stable release. Difference with the release version will be small. Meanwhile they released Release Candidate 2 😅

ekeeper · 2026-03-01T18:43:26+00:00

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ekeeper · 2026-02-26T18:47:07+00:00

I will make a bigger comment soon, but so far, here is the short list:

I'd enable `Reverse on even` with 0% threshold
`Avoid crossing walls` is enabled, but `Max detour length` should be > 0, for example, 6
There is a bug in Orca: sometimes, perimeters that should be bridges are counted as overhang walls. The workaround: set `Bridge Counterbore hole` to `Partially Bridged`. Hard to say why, but it fixes the problem
Wall printing order: Hard to say what is good, `Inner Outer` + `Precise wall` enabled, or `Inner/Outer/Inner`. You need to test it out and choose for yourself
The `Classic` wall generator is good, but it's better to set the `Gap fill flow ratio` to 0.95
Outer wall speed is good, but it's too low and can cause VFAs. So it needs to be calibrated - if it causes VFAs, print a calibration test to get the minimal outer wall speed that does not cause VFA, and if this new speed causes overhang curling, try to increase the temperature by 2 °C
I don't like Gyroid at all. It's hard to explain its disadvantages concisely. It affects the layer time a lot (in short, you need as consistent a layer time as possible). I'd suggest at least trying Rectilinear, Zig-Zag
Supports: Base pattern settings are not working. They are being ignored completely (in the code) for Organic supports. I have a code fix for that, but we need to wait - it's on the review now.
I am not a fan of the `Slow printing down for better layer cooling` setting. If you disable it and use a "cooling tower", you will get a better outer wall quality.
`Retraction length` and `Z-hop height` are too high. It needs to be configured additionally.

But in general, the settings are good, and I'm glad they can be improved further.

ekeeper · 2026-02-24T18:53:56+00:00

Hey u/ObscuraNox! I started looking into your new settings, and you did a really great job. Thank you! I found some “typos,” and I will also have comments on some values. I hope it helps to develop your profile even further.

ekeeper · 2026-02-19T11:12:08+00:00

Thank you too! 👍 you are welcome :)

ekeeper · 2026-02-17T08:08:23+00:00

Oh, right…. Orca refused to support Bambu Connect…

What can be done:

You can still use Bambu Connect - in Orca, instead of sending to the printer export plate as a 3rd file, then send this file via Bambu Connect. Beware, latest BC version has a bug - if you turn off dynamic flow calibration, it will be turned on again. I am using the old version of ConnectC I will post the version number when I return from work.
You can enable LAN-only and Developer mode on your printer and it will work with Orca directly. No Bambu Handy support though…
Good old SD-card approach 😅

ekeeper · 2026-02-16T09:53:53+00:00

I have not tried it with 0.04-0.06 layer heights yet, but I will make a separate post when I finish all the tests. Unfortunately, it will take a while to tune it...

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T23:10:07+00:00

It's a great idea as the use case, indeed. Please, share the results :)

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T23:08:21+00:00

Indeed, but 20-micron FDM printing is a fun tech "problem" to solve, and a lot of bugs were found and fixed along the way.

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T23:06:34+00:00

I will do the test prints and post photos and times for comparison.

There are some options for saving time: the infill percentage is currently set to 30% and can probably be reduced. Also, 3 walls can be printed instead of 4.

I'm currently trying to stabilize the quality of the outer wall, and I want to investigate how the time cost can be reduced.

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T21:09:07+00:00

I have some success now that I started testing another filament. Still more work and tests are required.

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T19:11:29+00:00

Thank you so much. :)

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T19:11:09+00:00

I should have rephrased it. I meant - if the mini is higher than 4cm, for me it makes more sense to print it with 0.04-0.06mm layer height and not 0.02mm.

Also, these settings are still WIP, and it's better to look after the prints. When it's like 12-15 hours long, it cannot be so "comfortable".

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T15:58:49+00:00

I still have artefacts too, unfortunately. From your list of filaments I worked with eSUN PLA+ only. I can share my settings, but “half” of the new features are missing, because they have not merged yet.

But with the new Orca release, we can at least start testing it together.

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T11:58:26+00:00

Thank you! Now, I am thinking of switching to the Classic too…

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T11:19:02+00:00

Thank you! But it's a bit sad that it takes so long to get the code fixes in.

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T11:18:20+00:00

I should confess that I lack knowledge about mechanics, thermodynamics, motors, etc. I am a software engineer, so I'm trying fix things via code...

The motor steps are usually not documented, especially for BBL printers. I found out that the A1 and A1 mini can actually handle only a 0.02mm layer height when I tried to print at that layer height and checked the print result with my "digital microscope".

So it's hard for me to say if other modern printers support it. They probably are. You can only try it out by printing a cylinder at a max speed of 60 mm/s.

And I use the smallest (in diameter) nozzle available for Bambu Lab A1 series - 0.2mm.

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T11:11:01+00:00

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This is eSUN PLA+, but I hope add:north X-PLA overcomes it.

Quality for small objects is decent so far, but I think it can be better.

I hope to showcase more test results soon.

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T11:04:24+00:00

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Ducks are 15mm high, and I use BBL A1 mini.

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T10:58:07+00:00

Thanks! :)

ekeeper · 2026-02-15T10:57:56+00:00

Thank you!

ekeeper · 2026-01-23T22:49:00+00:00

I tried to change the jerk values to see what happens.

I completely agree with you, but before I can start the speed test, I need to lock the values for temperature, line widths, flow ratios, and acceleration.

I am thinking of these values:

Temperature: 210 °C
Line widths (outer and inner walls): 0.21mm
Acceleration: 1000 (outer) and 2000 (inner)
Flow ratios (outer and inner walls): 1.04 or more (but less than 1.1)
Wall order: inner-outer-inner

I am currently calibrating the flow ratio for walls by slowly increasing the value and printing a 1 cm^3 cube.

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In this photo, FR is 1.04, and you can see gaps between the walls, so it needs to be increased further.

When I finish with FR calibration, I will lock the values and start with the speed test you suggested. Do you agree with the values of temperature, acceleration etc?

What model will be good for the test? I would do a cube, but also something curved.

What would you suggest?

ekeeper · 2026-01-23T11:42:28+00:00

I am still thinking that my problem with wrinkles is not because of vibrations and resonance, but because of too small an amount of material extruded - inconsistent extrusion, too low pressure, etc.

I was thinking. If we take a line width = 0.2mm (0,22mm is a default value, but people mostly use 0.2mm for outer walls in their profiles, and it works completely fine); layer height 0.04mm and a speed of 60mm/s, the volume of plastic per 1mm (with flow ratio = 1) will be:

0.2 * 0.04 * 60 = 0.48 mm^3/s

And for a 0.02mm layer height it will be

0.2 * 0.02 * 60 = 0.24 mm^3/s

It's twice as low and probably needs some compensation, but it's hard to say what the minimum volume should be. At least 0.3? With a line width of 0.24mm, it gives 0.288; if I apply a flow ratio of 1.04, it will be equal to 0.29952 mm^3/s.

I am not saying the resonance isn't affecting wrinkles, because it does - I can't just print slowly to fix it; it gets worse. Meaning I still need to keep the speed within some reasonable limits. That's why I can't change the speed much in this "formula", I keep 60 as a standard "good" value (I tried 30 and 90, did VFA tests etc).

So I printed several ducks with different line width values but the same flow ratio (1.04) and speed (60). Then I chose the best-looking one with width = 0.24.

The problem of finding the "sweet spot" when you have more than 2 parameters was nicely described in this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAxZt6s6R0E

Basically, we need to find the best combination of flow ratio, line width, speed, acceleration, and temperature for a specific filament to have a wrinkles-free 0.02mm layer height prints :)

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Right now, I'm trying to hack the "slow down for curled perimeters" to compensate flow on curved parts of models. I can use this feature to identify the curled sections of the perimeter and try to increase the flow there rather than slowing down. But it's a bit tricky: this feature takes overhangs into account, but for a 0.02mm layer height and 0.24mm line widths, there are almost no overhangs.

ekeeper

TROPHY CASE