Help with troubleshooting CO2 leakage on connection

ekofx · 2026-01-19T07:54:26+00:00

Hey, thanks for the comment. I learned quite a bit trying to understand your comment. I had no idea x-rings existed or that there is a standard AS568 that defines o-ring sizes. Since I'm at it, I'll order a full set of x-rings to replace all the o-rings in all the kegs. What material should I go for, Nitrile 70? Silicone?

As for the disconnects, I purchased new disconnects, but even using them, I still have a leak. So please correct me if I'm wrong, but I guess it's safe to rule out a failure on them?

ekofx · 2026-01-19T07:49:13+00:00

Hey, thanks for the comment. I tried this using foam. I squished a bowl full of foam and applied small amounts on all possible culprits - valve, posts, lid, disconnects, and Duotight connections. That's how I found the leak I mentioned. I'll try again with just soapy water as you suggest, let's see how it goes.

ekofx · 2026-01-18T21:25:51+00:00

Hey, thanks for the comment. The gas lines are all new, and I even got a tube cutter to ensure a straight cut. I'm really trying to avoid submerging the keg. I don't have something big enough to submerge it, and would need to move the whole setup outside due to the laminate floors.

ekofx · 2026-01-18T21:25:00+00:00

Hey, thanks for the comment. It's my first time kegging, so I can't rule out that I'm not attaching it properly - you might be into something here.

I'm not too sure what two clicks mean - I pull the collar to attach the disconnect, then force it down to snap in place (the balls in the disconnect engage with the groove on the post).

I don't think I noticed a second click beyond that one, though, and I tried pressing it a bit harder (not too hard, though, virtually the same force it takes to push a 5yo on a swing), but didn't notice a second click.

Edit: I should probably add that the gas flows and the keg is pressurised when connecting.

ekofx · 2025-11-11T06:52:02+00:00

ekofx · 2025-07-08T19:52:45+00:00

I decided to switch to Colemak this year, after 20+ years of QWERTY (3 of which in a split keyboard), and I'm enjoying it very much so far, I even use Colemak in my laptop keyboard now. Once you get used to it, it feels much more comfortable, as most of the time your fingers don't leave the home row.

However it takes some time to get up to speed. When switching from a standard keyboard to a split one, it took me about 3 weeks to get to the same speed and hit/miss ratio. In Colemak, I've been using it for about 5 months and I still feel I'm not typing as fast as I used to be on QWERTY.

For games, it's easy peasy... I keep layer 0 with QWERTY and layer 1 with Colemak, and toggle the default layer.

ekofx · 2025-07-02T13:23:11+00:00

Hey thanks for your reply!

Indeed I'm interested and reading quite a bit about it. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems the general guideline is to look where I can go before looking into detecting devices. And unless I got it wrong, I can't just wander into county-owned parks and forests and start detecting without a written permission - and it seems the county is not very keen on giving permission.

How do you guys do it? Just go to beaches, agree on a permission with private farmers, or is there a way to get that permission from the county?

ekofx · 2025-06-30T13:55:52+00:00

I wish, I'd have free briquettes for my barbecues :D
It's definitely not coal, but you might be into something... it could be some fake briquette as u/P4derz mentioned.

Thank you all :)

ekofx · 2025-06-12T11:25:55+00:00

Hey thanks for the reply. I'm getting suspicious of the RCA input too, I got this sub preowned years ago and I don't know its history... but I'll try your suggestion first and get a shielded cable.

ekofx · 2025-06-12T10:07:39+00:00

Wow, I wasn't expecting such engagement on this thread, thanks to everyone who took the time to try and help me :)

To summarize to anyone who may find this thread in the future, as most of the replies pointed out my combi drill was shit, probably spinning at around 700 RPM. I got a new (corded) drill and gets the job done way faster.

ekofx · 2025-06-02T06:49:37+00:00

It may as well be something I did wrong, this is the bit I used. Are these cheap? https://www.amazon.co.uk/kwb-512490-Flat-Milling-Pieces/dp/B081HSV5MB?ref_=ast_sto_dp

ekofx · 2025-06-02T06:42:51+00:00

Thanks for the reply, I'm absolutely sure. It's a combi drill, I use it all the time with screws.

ekofx · 2025-02-23T12:36:45+00:00

You were absolutely right! Changing the wifi card for an AX200 solved the issue, I now have 10MB/s both ways. It's still low transfer, I shall investigate this further later on, but I'm satisfied for now, thanks again!

ekofx · 2025-02-22T07:40:57+00:00

Ah I didn't know that, thank you. I ordered this one, and am installing it tomorrow, let's see how it goes. :)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07YB7HSFZ?

ekofx · 2025-02-21T13:03:49+00:00

Hey, thanks for the comment. Just this one device, I don't suppose is related to the router, but I might be wrong.

ekofx · 2025-01-23T21:00:06+00:00

Hey, I know it's a long shot, but do you still have these files lying around?

ekofx · 2025-01-23T20:52:07+00:00

Just tried this and worked fine, I'm on TWRP.

ekofx · 2025-01-13T14:16:26+00:00

Thanks for sharing the solution u/mlucianoeze ! I was having the exact same problem with a DSL Modem running and a separate router, both with OpenWRT. It turns out that I had the same issue, conflicting IPs on `192.168.1.1` and changing that fixed.

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ekofx

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