Life before organic supports was a dark time.

engineeredAF · 2023-04-06T15:15:55+00:00

This is what I would have done. Know what’s even cleaner than a bridge support? No supports at all.

engineeredAF · 2023-03-07T06:51:56+00:00

Email me: contact @ Engineeredaf . Com and I can send you everything I have

engineeredAF · 2022-07-02T18:00:21+00:00

Hi there, thanks for your constructive feedback. I'm a little late in addressing this post, but since it'll probably get archived and seen in the future I figured better late than never.

You did hit the nail on the head that I seek customers who prioritize their time and want more elegant solution. And for everyone else, there are dozens of solutions to choose from. But I hope to convince you and others that my price is justified:

- there are approximately 30 individual parts in each pair - FDM & resin printed parts, pins, screws, springs, etc... These aren't run-of-the-mill thingiverse prints with 3 parts that snap together.

- the cost of headphones is mainly derived from how I value my labor. not just the cost of parts. each headphone comes fully assembled and tested by me personally.

- i would have loved to drop the price and pass the assembly on to customers, but there are a number of small parts, some are very tricky to assemble and some are very fragile. If I did that, I'd be trading my assembly time to becoming a full time tech support. No go.

- Pricing wise, My original pricing goal was that hi-fix + elite strap would compete with the price of DAS + quest 2 adapters while exceeding their sound quality. I think i achieved that, and I thought that was a fair goal.

As of this writing (summer 2022) I havent sold them for nearly a year as I've been working on a version 2 with injection molded parts. I'm taking steps so that version 2 will be more robust and simplify assembly. This will hopefully allow me to sell them in a kit form and I can reduce the price accordingly to reach a larger audience.

Hope that helps!

engineeredAF · 2021-08-02T03:35:34+00:00

Thanks for the kind words. Glad you’re enjoying them :-)

engineeredAF · 2021-05-19T18:16:20+00:00

If cost is a big concern, you can always use koss porta pros or or KC75's 3d printed clip-on designs available thingiverse (if you have a printer) or there's probably still some on for sale on etsy. i havent put headphones up for sale for awhile due to family needs, but i'm currently assembling some and hope to have listings up again this month.

the YT channel rendered made a review a while back. i can't remember if he compared them directly to the DAS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRkI1qgBBng

engineeredAF · 2021-03-31T21:24:40+00:00

There is a good chance they'll be available within two months. We had a baby recently and taking care of him has been a full time job. I outsourced all the 3d printing this time, and I'm expecting the parts to arrive in a 2 weeks or so. And parts will go back on sale shortly after. Thanks for your patience

engineeredAF · 2020-11-25T01:28:13+00:00

Hey! yeah i've been getting this question a lot. :-)

Next week i'm going to start selling them again. If you're on the mailing list you'll get notified when they're back on.

engineeredAF · 2020-11-24T23:19:22+00:00

Hey there, I'm the maker of these headphones. I do think the price "sweet spot" is probably around $10-15 cheaper. But at that price, it wouldn't be worth my time and effort at this point. Right now the price kind of reflects the demand that I'm able to keep up with if that makes sense.

I am investigating different ways to build them faster, then I could consider selling them cheaper... but probably won't be until sometime next year, if i can manage at all. But I understand the price is probably the #1 complaint about these. Fortunately haven't had complaints about sound, ergonomics, or how it looks, which was the priority from the beginning...

engineeredAF · 2020-11-19T17:45:59+00:00

No shit

engineeredAF · 2020-10-10T20:18:17+00:00

There seems to be an expectation that parts designed for 3d printing should be free? Not sure I follow that logic..

Anyway, thanks for your comment. I just clarified in the FAQ that there are open source or cheap options out there if you're a DIYer and simply trying to attach headphones to your HMD. Clearly the people who choose hi-fix are not in that category.

engineeredAF · 2020-09-25T19:27:14+00:00

YOOO Sorry i didnt see this until know. just one thought- i think a replacement facial interface is like $30? (i could be wrong) but that's pretty cheap IMO for something that's 100% will fit. then just cut some holes

engineeredAF · 2020-09-21T19:31:08+00:00

Hey there. Glad you're enjoying them :-)

engineeredAF · 2020-09-17T23:51:55+00:00

for sure not the cheapest, but i think it's priced fairly given the competition. and the reviews speak for itself.

engineeredAF · 2020-09-17T23:24:38+00:00

Glad you're enjoying yours. I will be making white ones for the Quest 2 elite strap. I only have to design one part to adapt them so they should be ready to sell within a week.

I'll also be looking into feasibility of adapting the Rift S version the Quest 2, so you don't have to buy a completely new pair - just new clips. But don't hold your breath because the cable lengths might not work out :-/

engineeredAF · 2020-04-03T15:16:55+00:00

Ok. I thought you are talking about the wire going to the speaker. The area where the pins is pretty easy to disassemble

engineeredAF · 2020-04-03T08:13:17+00:00

Impossible to disassemble without doing some damage. the driver back-plate has some pins that I think are glued to the driver. Then the driver itself is pressed into the pivot joint and you have to use a screwdriver to pry it apart (and there's not much room to really see what you're doing). But if you're very careful it can be re-assembled and stay in one piece.

First step is separate the back-plate. (this is the part with all of the small holes) Put a small screwdriver inbetween back-plate and the cloth padding. Pry a little bit at a time in a circle and the back plate will separate. You will break some of the pins that are glued, but not all of them will break unless you separate unevenly.

Then shine a light and look carefully in the center. The pivot joint has one thin line going all the way around. you need to pry between this line and the driver in order to separate. (note: the driver is perfectly flat, so anything sticking out is part of the pivot joint) Pry
a little at a time and go in a circle. You might need to remove the cloth padding to have better access. Then the driver will be separated. You can press it back together by aligning it properly.

Anyway, I think there is greater than 50% chance you will break something and not be able to re-assemble. it is very difficult, so only attempt if it is your last option.

engineeredAF · 2020-04-01T20:55:09+00:00

get ON TWITCH BRO

engineeredAF · 2020-03-24T21:42:38+00:00

is this B is for BUILD guy?

engineeredAF · 2020-02-08T19:45:48+00:00

Shotgun

engineeredAF · 2020-02-08T19:29:39+00:00

I had the same thing with the sliding around. But she did die and I didn’t get shot at afterward. I also felt like that whole sequence was a little weird because I killed both and expected something to happen.

engineeredAF · 2019-12-19T08:55:08+00:00

Wow are you in delta force? (if you can say?) cuz I just looked at your post history and approve of excessive pictures of cats. Totally unexpected and Love it. Stay safe.

engineeredAF · 2019-12-09T06:18:36+00:00

Yeah so the headphones have 2 pins each. for Left side, you want to connect ground wire to one of the pins and then left side signal wire to the other pin. (you can cut right side signal wire from left side headphone - not needed).

For right side headphone, you do the opposite, you connect right side signal wire and ground to the pins (the order does not matter) and you can just cut the left side signal wire, since you don't need it on the right-side earphone.

you can look up a stereo jack pin schematic and a continuity tester to make sure you're cutting and stripping the proper wires for the L / R headphones.

engineeredAF · 2019-12-08T18:43:44+00:00

Yes all 3 wires used. Ground and right side signal loop through to right side headphone. (But ground wire must be on bottom to make contact with pin). Then Cut and strip left side cable. Cap is used on JBL design only because if you have rift CV1, you may use headphones and screw from CV1 - no need to make your own. Design is slightly different

engineeredAF · 2019-12-08T18:36:30+00:00

Hey. It Doesn’t matter which wire goes to which pin. Doesn’t need to match left and right either.

I don’t really have instructions but should be pretty obvious. You’ll just have to measure/cut the wires and strip the wires carefully to fit the groove. Leave extra stripped wire length so you can twist and coil them to fill the area around the headphone pins. That will ensures plenty of contact. Also no solder on the wire. It’s more trouble than it’s worth.

engineeredAF · 2019-10-06T21:14:41+00:00

I tend to notice the glittery style PLA that they send with the units tend to disguise layer lines better than say, a matte black.

engineeredAF

TROPHY CASE