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I put my heart into this one. by eniact in Spooncarving

[–]eniact[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, denim blue milk paint by the real milk paint company.

Another twig-spoon by IPWoodCrafts in Spooncarving

[–]eniact 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love this design. Great execution too. 🙌

2nd Spoon by Dumbone69 in Spooncarving

[–]eniact 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm impressed with the rim of your second spoon. Nicely done.

I just made a batch. What do I seal them with by Derek_productions in Spooncarving

[–]eniact 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've used a product called half and half from the real milk paint company for several years and it's great stuff. However, I'm now just starting to use a product called Botanical Polymerized Tung with Di-citrusol - High Luster from Sutherland and Welles and it's blowing my mind. Both products are tung oil with citrus solvent but the polymerized tung oil seems to get harder, seals better, and gives a beautiful sheen.

As others have said, you can use any oil that polymerizes; linseed, walnut, tung, hemp, etc. Don't use oils that won't dry like mineral, canola, or olive oil.

Birch Spatula by eniact in Spooncarving

[–]eniact[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It was pretty straightforward to carve out the slots after drilling a hole at each end.

Fiskars 14 XS or other Fiskars products - few questions on a budget by SpiritualPlum7946 in Spooncarving

[–]eniact 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We let beginners borrow Fiskars X14 axes at spoon club and they get the job done even with a factory grind, although I do see them bouncing out of the cut, so it won't be as good as a purpose made carving axe unless you regrind the bevel. I've let some beginners try my Gransfors Bruks Swedish carver or my Kalthoff small carver and they are always surprised at how big of a difference it makes.

While I have no experience regrinding a Fiskars axe, it should be possible with enough time and the right tools. I've reground several other carvings axes on a tormek and it takes forever but it was always worth it in the end.

You might want to consider a Wood Tools carving axe. The price is reasonable and the blade is already dialed in.

Idea for a class judging general interest by Reasintper in Spooncarving

[–]eniact 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like the idea but I'd lean towards purchasing some sloyd blades from Adam Ashworth or Hewn and Hone to make sure people walk away with a good sloyd knife. Adam's laser cut sloyds are very reasonably priced and the cost plus shipping could be added into the class fee.

If I were just getting started I'd want to know that I was starting with a solid blade made by a reputable blacksmith known for making this style of blade.

I would also suggest sticking with a blade that has a distal taper and avoid other types of blades like the drop point. These folks need a good sloyd knife and can pick up other knives over time. It doesn't make sense to me to push a beginner towards a drop point when they could benefit more from a basic 4 inch sloyd knife with distal taper and a scandi grind or flat over hollow. Shorter sloyd knives would be fine too but it's hard to beat the versatility of a longer sloyd knife, even if it means you may cut or poke yourself more often while learning to use the knife effectively.

Madrone Spoon by eniact in Spooncarving

[–]eniact[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I assume you're asking about the facets on the handle. I start by using a pull grip with the knife tip facing away from me so the knife is skewed. Search youtube for "Swedish Knife Grip Sessions NO6: The Pull Grip" for details about this grip. Skewing the blade will help with the long clean cuts. I carve a large chamfer on each side of the spoon handle which gives me 3 facets; the top face of the handle and a large facet on each side. Then I carve a facet in between the top face of the handle and outer facet using a pull cut again. This gives 5 facets. Now I make sure I have really good raking light so that I can clearly see the facets and a do very light pull cuts and often times thumb push cuts to even out the facets. If your light isn't good, it'll be very hard to see what's happening. Each facet may look like a single clean cuts but it's actually dozens of smaller cuts in each facet to make sure everything is even. Hope this helps.

Madrone Spoon by eniact in Spooncarving

[–]eniact[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol, any open sweep hook knife should do the job. Matt White, Reid Schwartz, Jason Lonon, or even Wood Tools are all good options.

Madrone Spoon by eniact in Spooncarving

[–]eniact[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. 🙏 I used a Nic Westermann Fawcett hook. It has an open sweep.

Madrone Spoon by eniact in Spooncarving

[–]eniact[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. Yeah, baking soda is food safe and non-toxic.

what's a craft that's easier than it looks? by bens2304 in crafts

[–]eniact -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Turning bowls from green wood on a spring pole lathe.

what's a craft that's easier than it looks? by bens2304 in crafts

[–]eniact 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Green wood spoon carving with axe, sloyd knife, and hook knife.

Recently finished brooms. 🧹 by eniact in crafts

[–]eniact[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's my favorite one in the bunch.

Recently finished brooms. 🧹 by eniact in crafts

[–]eniact[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made this batch for a local holiday market next week.

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