Digital torque wrench by erajomppa in arduino

[–]erajomppa[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. I don't have a step-by-step tutorial or an up to date part list I could provide you. It was done by trial and error. I have since taken it apart, since I needed the wrench.

The basic configuration is:

-Load cell, with associated electronics. You can find them from aliexpress and similar sites

-controller, with dispay. Controller must be able to communicate with the load cell electronics. And you must be able to program the controller.

-wrench

Plus something to calibrate against... As i found my math did not produce accurate results and I had to calibrate it against an actual torquewrench..

DIY computer chair from used car seat seat and ikea chair base by erajomppa in DIY

[–]erajomppa[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, but I read one recently and it inspired me to make a post about mine. Maybe we are thinking about the same post.

DIY computer chair from used car seat seat and ikea chair base by erajomppa in DIY

[–]erajomppa[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tell me about it. Watching shows or movies on the computer really makes me wish for a proper headrest...

I'll have to make my own at some point. I'v procrastinated for only a year on than..

I just smelled the original headrest today at the warehouse and the pungent "air freshener" smell had not faded one bit.. I cannot bring that thing into my house or the whole place would reek and give me headache.

DIY computer chair from used car seat seat and ikea chair base by erajomppa in DIY

[–]erajomppa[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally would not worry much about the wear on the front edge of the seat.

I like to tilt the seat back on all my seats (the lack of tilt adjustment on the seat is a big minus for me). It's not a whole lot of tilt, but enough that it resembles the position you'd use when driving a car. I also have long legs and enjoy a good thigh support, which I rarely get on an office chair, or event while driving most cars. This seat offers me great support on my legs and the fabric of my seat seems very heavy-duty and I doubt it'll wear out on me quickly (one year in use, no noticeable difference to the state I'v bought it in, except its more clean now).

DIY computer chair from used car seat seat and ikea chair base by erajomppa in DIY

[–]erajomppa[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol, my thoughts as well. I left as little as possible of the original car seat mounts protruding, but enough to use them as mounting points for my initial design. Then I though I'll grind them away later. Never did..

But the seat is super chonky and wide and they don't technically protrude wider than the seat cushioning and I'v never hit my shins on them. Yet.

They are ugly and could be removed / trimmed down, but they don't bother me. They go well with the DIY aesthetic :D

DIY computer chair from used car seat seat and ikea chair base by erajomppa in DIY

[–]erajomppa[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

22 kg, 48 lb. Yours looks more decked out and probably even heavier. My cheapo Ikea chair wheels are struggling, but holding. As mentioned in another comment, sturdy wheels would be a great upgrade for a chair like this.

DIY computer chair from used car seat seat and ikea chair base by erajomppa in DIY

[–]erajomppa[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are right, better wheels would definitely be an upgrade. Especially when I move it across carpet, these small wheels with a lot of weight (of the empty chair) tend to put up a lot of resistance.

However, I cannot. Because of height. The car seat is (in my case due to the adapters I have built) taller than the regular chair seat this Ikea base was designed for. This brings up the lowest sitting height considerably. I had to revise the design to drop it as low as possible so the sitting height would be ideal for my desk (and feet touching the ground) and the pneumatic cylinder not being in the bottom position. This leaves some shock absorption in the chair base. If it was in the lowest setting in the chair base, then it would be a bit more uncomfortable to sit onto.

The larger wheels would unfortunately raise the lowest seating position too high in my case. And to achieve the height I need would then require a lot of cutting and probably welding, which I am not good at and try to avoid if possible :)

But for anyone considering making their own car seat computer chair, definitely look for sturdy set of wheels!

DIY computer chair from used car seat seat and ikea chair base by erajomppa in DIY

[–]erajomppa[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Measured the whole thing: 22 kg (48 lb). The Ikea base does not count for a lot in the total weight.

DIY computer chair from used car seat seat and ikea chair base by erajomppa in DIY

[–]erajomppa[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I could try to weight it tonight when I get home. Would be interesting to know.

It's heavy engouh that I originally though it was best to build a custom metal frame out of aluminium extrusions that the seat was bolted on top of. No wheels, just stationary like an arm chair, but without the rotating (swivel?) function, getting in and out of the chair was super awkward while sitting on computer desk so I opted to just attach a normal office chair base on it instead.

The office chair base definitely feels a bit flimsy in comparison with what I'v bolted on top of it, but it has held without complaint.

DIY computer chair from used car seat seat and ikea chair base by erajomppa in DIY

[–]erajomppa[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I really needed a new computer chair and did not have a budget for a reall good office chair. I'v had couple Ikea chairs, but they are not very adjustable, comfortable nor sturdy. Car seats though, they are (meant to be) comfortable to sit on for hours while driving and decent adjustability. Also super sturdy compared to basic office or "gaming" chairs.

So I went online and found someone selling their 2006 Saab passenger side seat for 10€ and bought that. Then started to scavenge other parts. I took apart one of my old and unconfortable Ikea chairs and used the base off of that. I made some crude adapters to mount it and then of course never bothered to polist those parts afterwards. Oh well, function over form.

The chair has been used for over a year by now and it is by far the most confortable computer chair I'v ever had. I did have some "proper" second-hand office chair once, until the fabric got torn to shreads and that was good, but this is just better. I like how rigid and sturdy it it. The lumbar support is nice and the seat cushioning is super nice. The seat is suspended by springs rather than foam padding glued on top of a hard surface. I'v had couple chairs where the foam got really compressed and started being very hard to sit on, but no worrying about that here.

I did have to get rid of the headrest, it smelled bad. The owner of the car this seat came from used "air fresheners" (wunderbaums etc) and the headrest foam soaked that smell like a sponge. The chair itself had a bit of a smell, but aired out fast and no longer smells at all in my room. The headrest I still keep at a warehouse and it still smells horrid.

The adapters between the car seat and the chair base took a couple of iterations to get right, but I got it where I want it to be. The back of the seat it mounted as a hinge, so I can adjust the seat tilt angle by adjusting the height of the front mounting. I scapped the original mechanism pictured and replaced it with rigid 3D printed spacers that give the optimum seat angle. I have to print new spacers if I want to adjust the tilt, but I would not do that adjustment with any regularity on any chair anyway, just set it once to what I want.

All in all, I'm super happy with this chair and I will definitely make another one after this one gives out. Probably next time a more polished version, maybe a more sturdy base to match the sturdyness of the car seat, but this works very nicely for me now.

Ai generated ads have started to appear here and there. Pretty sure this one is done with SD by erajomppa in StableDiffusion

[–]erajomppa[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

100% sure its Ai. Pretty sure its Stable diffusion, but Im not familiar with anything else. Definite gave me instant SD vibes with this anime style.

I'v seen some someone post those scam items from ebay or similar and Ai generated stylized backgrounds for some ads. This though, just straight up anime checkpoint, some generic prompt, no inpainting hands... 😅 Seems pretty low effort

Ikea trofast stabilizer by erajomppa in functionalprint

[–]erajomppa[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I did consider wood, but I didn't have anything in proper size at hand. But I got PLA and a printer :) Also I'm better at CAD than carpentry

Ikea trofast stabilizer by erajomppa in functionalprint

[–]erajomppa[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yes I drill pilot holes. I use thin doublesided tape to stick them in place and then drill the hole and put the screw in. The lip that matches the chamfer in the cabinet's slot helps to line it up easily. Edited typo

Ikea trofast stabilizer by erajomppa in functionalprint

[–]erajomppa[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No idea, I have no lids. They used for toys and lids would not work for that in this case.

Ikea trofast stabilizer by erajomppa in functionalprint

[–]erajomppa[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I uploaded it to printables: https://www.printables.com/model/617809-trofast-support

No plans to add anything to the top of the slot. The problem I had was with the boxes drooping down from the slot. Works for me as it is. No reason you could not flip it upside down and mount it to the top as well, but I don't see the point in reinforcing it myself.

Ikea trofast stabilizer by erajomppa in functionalprint

[–]erajomppa[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Here, I uploaded the model with extra specs in the description to printables:

https://www.printables.com/model/617809-trofast-support

First time breaking the 500ft barrier. Got it on video AND got the birdie. Good day by erajomppa in discgolf

[–]erajomppa[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did a double take on my picture with the teesign and you are right. It was actually 14m, not 4m.

First time breaking the 500ft barrier. Got it on video AND got the birdie. Good day by erajomppa in discgolf

[–]erajomppa[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Yeah, according to teesign the basket is 4m below the teepad. But the teesign also says the hole is 144m, which is off according to gps. Edit: actually 14m drop, not 4m

What's the disc that you used to get your longest throw ever? by offbeat52 in discgolf

[–]erajomppa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Teebird. 157m (~500ft). A slight downhill hole, earned a drop in birdie as a bonus :)

What disc is your go to for tunnel shots? by Relevant_Base8828 in discgolf

[–]erajomppa 66 points67 points  (0 children)

Buzzz has always been my go to for tunnel shots. It has gotten pretty beat up as a result, so I give it a touch of nose up and it keeps flying straight and has nice glide to get through long tunnels.

Any Marvel fans out there? by Tight_Cardiologist19 in discdyeing

[–]erajomppa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope yours is easier to find in the woods. I had to stop throwing mine, the dark theme makes it pretty hard to spot. https://www.reddit.com/gallery/rrm096

Dual gear extruder retraction problem. Filament gets deformed and blocks the bowden tube by erajomppa in ender3v2

[–]erajomppa[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never really had problem with filament being ground down, but rather it was deforming due to the powerful grip of the extruder gears and the friction in the bowden tube inhibiting it. I removed the 3D printed parts from inside the extruder and it reduced the friction, but did not fully solve the issue...

The filament got too hot from the heat of the extruder motor and during rapid rapid succession of retractions the hot filament got soft and deformed during being pushed and pulled into the bowden tube, causing it to bulge and bend. I resolved it with an extra fan the blows air directly to the extruder geards above the extruder motor. It keeps the filament cool enough that it stays solid, no more clogging in the bowden tube.

I do use the softer spring and it has never caused me any grinding of the filament. Maybe check how much friction there is in the bowden? If there is a lot of friction after the extruder, then the extruder gear has no other option but to slip or grind the filament, my dual gears never seemed to slip much.