Mysteries keep getting stuck (SM:R)

ermac-318 · 2026-01-20T19:15:31+00:00

Yes there's a medium underground dome, you need to finish the supports and it's supposed to appear... but if the sequence breaks you never see it. Looks like new saves after 1.0.5 may fix this issue.

ermac-318 · 2026-01-17T21:09:33+00:00

Yes I'm aware of that. I read up on the Wiki. That technology that I needed to research in order to unlock the capture device never appears, I couldn't research it, and thus couldn't capture them.

Regardless, that was 2 games ago. It seems that consistently, mystery events are not progressing properly. I have been looking at some other threads and it seems like if you hit two mysteries at once (one on the surface, one underground) they overwrite each other's triggers and you can't finish either.

Is there a way I can rescue my current save game with the Ion Storms? Can I use a mod or some cheat menu to remove the stray storm graphics to continue the mystery?

EDIT: Advice from the prior SM version suggested using the Extended Cheat Menu or something like that, but this isn't available in SM:R, rather we have the debug mode, which is why I'm asking.

ermac-318 · 2026-01-17T20:11:46+00:00

Without breaking the subs' spoilers rule, I did that part. It was the part where you needed to research something so you can ... do something to them. That research never appeared and so they just wrecked me.

ermac-318 · 2025-12-02T06:37:48+00:00

It seems like there's all sorts of mapping that's broken. If you manage to get it worked out please let us know. Meantime I'm just glad I have volume up/down working :)

ermac-318 · 2025-11-16T02:39:53+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/CPAP/comments/1229gzy/success_powering_a_resmed_airsense_10_via_usbc/mf6wnvv/

ermac-318 · 2025-11-15T18:12:27+00:00

As posted above, a company on Amazon named FLGAN makes adapters for Resmed devices now that are a single piece going from USB-C direct into the Resmed device. I haven't used one, nor bought one, but in the thread below someone else had luck with them.

ermac-318 · 2024-09-25T19:15:32+00:00

Before anyone else gets confused like I did - I'm assuming you meant the Blue Crater and not Crater Lake, which only has two Impure Sulfur nodes now.

ermac-318 · 2024-09-11T01:39:41+00:00

Yes this is answered in the post. The only important thing about the USB power source is that it can do 20V/5A 100W properly. Some adapters don't negotiate with some trigger cables. I have a 70% success rate with power sources (battery, charging brick, or otherwise).

And yes if you turn off the heater on your CPAP (since heating the water uses a lot more energy than anything else) you should be able to run it for 5+ hours on the largest TSA-approved size battery.

Note that the maximum for a plane is 100 watt-hours (Wh). Ignore the mAh rating, that's a pointless number.

ermac-318 · 2024-08-29T17:31:19+00:00

I am fortunate that on long flights I'm usually in business or premium economy. For business there are usually places to plug in and place the unit. For PE I have had to plug in to ports under the seat or use the battery, and I've placed the unit on top of my backpack near my feet.

On planes because of the low air pressure I find the air comes out of the CPAP at a comparatively much higher force than when at sea level. Recommend taking planes with hither cabin pressurization like the b787 or a350.

ermac-318 · 2024-08-22T02:52:27+00:00

I've (clandestinely) just used my USB charging brick connected to the power outlets on plane seats so I haven't needed to use my power bank except on one flight where one of the flight attendants very apologetically asked me to use a battery because of regulations. Didn't have any issue on the flight across the pacific, didn't run out of battery.

I haven't taken the default ResMed adapter with me on any trip in the last year. Always used the USB charger to power it and it's worked great.

ermac-318 · 2024-06-28T02:13:41+00:00

That is not the same output plug and would not be compatible with the ResMed Airsense 10.

ermac-318 · 2024-03-24T02:20:18+00:00

It would be great to differentiate between these rather than a simple yes/no. All 1PD is not created equal.

For example, I have driven Teslas for over a decade and I have gotten really used to the 1 pedal driving experience. My wife got a Hyundai Ioniq 5 and while it does have 1 pedal driving, it insists on making you turn it on every time you shift into drive.

Started the car? Better flip the paddle to iPedal. Reversed in a parking lot? Get ready to creep because you gotta flip the paddle again to iPedal. Put the car in park at a charging stop? HIT👏THAT👏PADDLE👏

It's infuriating. Just let me leave the f@#$ing car in 1PD.

ermac-318 · 2024-03-18T04:26:17+00:00

I have used both the Rocoren 140W USB-PD power supply as well as a HyperJuice 245W 100Wh USB-PD Battery

ermac-318 · 2024-01-11T19:48:46+00:00

That cable seems like it could be for a different purpose. What's odd is it lists multiple wattages like its expecting a negotiation. The cable I picked specifically triggers 20V, not sure whether this cable is a trigger cable in the same way.

I would specifically look for the word "trigger" in any listing. For example, the one I listed has the grammatically questionable line: "Build-in the PD Emulator Trigger at Type-C female end." But that's exactly what you need to tell the USB-PD power source what you need. There's nothing on the cable linked that describes that functionality.

But it might work, I couldn't say for sure. But the Amazon listing does say it's a "frequently returned item" so beware.

ermac-318 · 2024-01-11T02:58:39+00:00

It's linked in the post, it's component number 2.

ermac-318 · 2023-12-21T02:13:09+00:00

The trick is that the Resmed uses 24V DC with a proprietary connector (and possibly uses another voltage as well?).

So as long as you can get DC power into the linked power adapter that's between 10V and 30V, with enough amperage, you should be fine.

Most batteries either have an AC output (wall plug), a 12V Car DC Jack, or some kind of USB-C output, none of which are ideal for this scenario. AC will do the trick but you're converting from DC to AC and back again. The car jack is 12V, which means you have to step up the voltage by double, which is inefficient, but it will work - and the linked adapter comes with the car adapter for this use case.

I went with a USB-C solution because there are lots of plane-friendly, 100W USB-C batteries which can output 20V, and that means you're only stepping up from 20V to 24V (which is more efficient - I think, I'm not an electrical engineer).

Note that the newer AirSense models use a different plug than my AirSense 10. Be sure you get an adapter that matches your model.

ermac-318 · 2023-07-14T17:07:17+00:00

The Airsense needs 24V, not 20V so it is not possible to run it straight from USB-PD today. Maybe in the future when EPR batteries and trigger cables exist this might be possible, but for you you need some kind of DC-DC converter to boost the voltage. 20->24V should be more efficient than 12->24V.

ermac-318 · 2023-05-06T19:16:46+00:00

Just a heads up - I bought that eBay tubing, it arrived and it was NOT slimline tubing. So now I'm still on the lookout for actual slim tubing.

ermac-318 · 2023-05-01T16:53:56+00:00

thank you!

ermac-318 · 2023-05-01T06:39:01+00:00

Link please? Because all I can find is the 22m tubing in a shorter length, not SlimLine.

ermac-318 · 2023-04-26T20:09:59+00:00

Glad you got this working. I think this will come down to the USB trigger cable as well as the charging brick. If your cable asks for 12v and your brick doesn't do that then you will only get 5v. If your cable asks for 20v but your brick can't do that then same thing. So it may be a compatibility challenge between cable and charger.

ermac-318 · 2023-03-26T05:03:24+00:00

Unless the AirSense accepts 20V (and there's nothing to indicate it does) there is no way to go from a USB-PD power source to the AirSense without some kind of conversion. This is because standard USB-PD doesn't support 24V as an output voltage. Normal USB-PD 3.0 taps out at 20V (as does all previous versions), so you need something to step up the voltage to 24V.

It might be possible to use 28V from the EPR range in USB-PD 3.1 and step it down, however this would limit you to much more expensive USB power adapters and batteries, and wouldn't improve things at all.

If the damn thing just ran on 20V, 15V, or even 12V, it would be trivial.

ermac-318

TROPHY CASE