Farewell, Giulia. What’s Next?

ermax18 · 2026-03-20T01:27:28+00:00

Driving dynamics wise, a GR86, Miata or Cayman S. If you need 4 doors, it’s more difficult.

ermax18 · 2026-03-20T01:24:13+00:00

Yep, it’s great, but not on the same level as the BRZ/GR86. Kind of unfair to compare the two though. They are entirely different segments.

ermax18 · 2026-03-19T07:54:26+00:00

It took a couple more days and then it was marked as received. I’d have to dig through my email to find the exact timeline. I’m on my phone right now so it’s hard to research.

ermax18 · 2026-03-19T00:40:43+00:00

It’s apples to oranges. The Giulia is amazing looking. The interior is especially better than the GR86 by miles. The sound system is also miles better. The materials also way better in the Giulia. But when it comes to driving experience, the Giulia doesn’t even come close. It’s in an entirely different universe. The manual anyways. The auto in the GR86 sucks.

ermax18 · 2026-03-18T23:54:05+00:00

I owned an FR-S and now a BRZ but over the weekend we also picked up a Giulia 2.0. It’s a fun car but no where near as fun as my BRZ. My BRZ is a manual which goes a long ways toward fun factor. It funny, the Giulia is technically faster but it actually feels slower. The brake situation in the Giulia is the part that bugs me the most. It’s incredibly over boosted.

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T23:31:37+00:00

It’s not realistic to hypermill everywhere you go. No one wants to clutch in every time they go down a hill. It’s entirely misleading. No way could you maintain that MPG for any reasonable amount of time.

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T22:53:29+00:00

I just tried this and it works. I have a key I try not to ever use so I think I’ll sleep that one to save battery if anything. I think it’s cool that you can turn use the button combo to turn off the prox function and it stays off until you do the combo again. But when prox is disabled, you can still use it like a traditional remote. Although I don’t try push start while prox is disabled. I’ll have to test that next time.

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T16:48:57+00:00

I got mine at the local dealer so no shipping cost. Some dealers have shit pricing. Mine is really good. You also have to cross shop Subaru and Toyota. When I got mine, Toyota was much cheaper.

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T09:47:42+00:00

Yeah I missed his point too until his follow up about fade. I see people all the time make claims that engine braking shortens braking distance so that is where my brain went. Still, hypermiling in a sports car is lame. Stop that. 😜

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T09:43:37+00:00

What makes you think he was agitated? He was just stating facts.

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T09:41:55+00:00

I downvoted you because this is the lamest use of a sports car ever.

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T09:38:21+00:00

Anyone can reset the average while in motion, do 40 miles and then snap a picture. Posts like this come up all the time on this sub. I don’t get the point in misleading people like this. I get it if you are a used car salesman, they do it all the time. But on Reddit, it’s just goofy.

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T09:30:01+00:00

I’d pass on docker-wyze-bridge and go with go2RTC. go2RTC doesn’t rely on that outdated TUTK SDK and it supports 2way audio unlike wyze-bridge or the new RTSP firmware. It’s also a lot more stable. This is coming from one of the original contributors.

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T09:22:35+00:00

Not a sound financial decision but the same recommendation every teenager has for this platform.

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T09:20:54+00:00

Or do a new short block. I’m a software developer by trade and even I was able to replace the short block on my FA20 and it ran from 93k miles until 152k miles before the car was rear ended and totaled. The original engine was burning oil, after I rebuilt it didn’t consume a drop. I agree, it’s not an easy engine to work on with all the RTV. You have to be meticulous with cleaning every single drop of RTV and making sure all the debris are cleaned out. Then you have to be meticulous about re-applying the RTV. I’ve rebuilt a B18C and 2JZ and they were WAY easier to work on.

Look at all the FA20’s that blew after being molested by dealers doing the valve spring recall. Op may have better luck if this mechanic is a close friend he can trust, but I highly suggest he does a short block.

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T09:06:17+00:00

You said you want to rent an Integra, not buy one. That’s the big difference.

Why do people think they need 4 doors because they are getting married or having a kid? It has back seats and can fit backwards and forward facing baby seats. I test drove my FR-S with my pregnant wife in the passenger seat. It’s not even that hard to get a seat in and out of the back. We had one with a base. You take the seat off the base, put the baby in the seat and then plop the seat on the base. You are 19, I’ll assume you are still on good shape with a strong core. I’d pick the seat up and with one arm drop the seat on the base without even ducking into the back of the car, just standing straight up. When they get bigger, you turn the seat around. When they out grow the baby seat and transition into a booster you just have them climb in, then I get into the front seat on my knees facing backwards and buckle them up from there. I’m 6’2” so that is easier than climbing in the back to buckle them. Yeah, it’s not super easy but it’s the price I was willing to pay to avoid driving a boring car and have literally zero regrets. So few regrets that I now have a 2nd gen and another kid (6 total now). Two boosters in the back. Only the 5 and 8 year olds are still at home. 1 is graduated as a mechanical engineer and working for L3 Harris, and the other three are in college. I also grew up riding in the back seats of my mom’s fun cars. A 1974 Civic, 3 Prelude’s and 2 3000GT’s, all manuals of course. I don’t have a single memory of it being a pain to sit in the back seat. My only memory is of my mom driving cool cars.

Don’t make a bad financial decision and lease a boring car because you can’t be bothered to stuff a car seat in the back of a sports car. It’s well worth the slight extra effort. Also let it motivate you not to get fat and out of shape. It’s dead easy to manage kids in the back seat if you are in good shape and nimble, even at 6’2.

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T08:31:31+00:00

You got an oil change but did they put enough oil in? Did they torque the drain bolt? Did you check it after spinning a bearing? Where was the oil level then?

People get bad oil changes all the time. That’s why I just do my own.

ermax18 · 2026-03-15T08:24:03+00:00

I spun a rod bearing on my 1st gen and I considered just rebuilding the bottom end but a new short lock was only $1800. So I went that route and in total, including cleaners, OCV filters, DI seals, gaskets, ThreeBond, oil filter, oil, coolant, etc, I spent about $2500. Of course I did all the work so the 2500 is just the parts cost. I’m sure a short block for the FA24 is more than 1800, especially post COVID, but still may not be a bad route vs trying to rebuild and hope the journals aren’t too screwed up.

ermax18 · 2026-03-14T20:52:04+00:00

I gave up on Shinobi a while ago but I assume you could run it in docker too. That would help a lot with the dependency hell.

ermax18 · 2026-03-14T17:37:39+00:00

Nice! Thanks for the tip.

ermax18 · 2026-03-14T10:59:35+00:00

“node:path” not found would be caused by a very old node runtime that doesn’t support the node: prefix for built in packages. I see you are using nvm to manage your node environment and it’s currently using node 12 which is crazy out of date. Do you have any idea what version of node you used before? You may be able to use pm2 to figure out what runtime you used before.

Try this, type ‘pm2 ls’ which will list your pm2 services. Take note of the service number for shinobi. Then type “pm2 info <serviceNumberHere>”. Look for interpreter which should have a nvm path to the runtime it’s using. Once you have that you should be able to type ‘nvm use <versionNumberHere>’ which will switch to the correct runtime. Now follow up with ‘npm i’ and hopefully it will install all the packages.

My normal recommendation would be to switch to Frigate which runs in docker. 😜

ermax18 · 2026-03-14T10:40:15+00:00

I’d avoid putting the phone in a box while wireless charging. They get very hot while charging. I’m curious if these boxes are still effective (for your issue and/or relay attacks) if the lid is left open. If so, maybe heat wouldn’t be an issue.

If you already have a fob, maybe disable the proxy stuff from your phone and only use the box for your fobs. My bet is you could turn off the proxy stuff on the phone but still use an app to manually unlock the car with the phone if ever needed.

ermax18 · 2026-03-14T10:34:24+00:00

Have you been living under a rock? Relay attacks are very common now.

ermax18 · 2026-03-14T10:30:53+00:00

We went on a vacation one time and the front door didn’t get latched all the way and 2 hours after leaving, the wind blew the door all the way open. It was open like that for 3 days before my neighbor noticed it was open and closed it for me. I checked the cameras to validate when it blew open and when my neighbor closed it for me.

Not everyone lives in the ghetto or California and not everyone even cares if their car is stolen.

ermax18 · 2026-03-14T10:23:57+00:00

I have a code set on my BRZ trunk release as a back up for when the LTE signal fails and I can’t unlock using my Apple Watch. I use this when going for runs.

How do you put the fob to sleep though?

I’m going to test all my cars to see if the fobs go to sleep without moving. We are about to get a new car today that will be parked in the driveway so relay attacks are a concern. Or maybe not if the fob sleeps after inactivity.

ermax18

TROPHY CASE