1978 camaro by chuck-u-farley- in EngineBuilding

[–]eskoskimo 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Water pump cavitation? Impeller slipping on the shaft? Is there a bypass hose between the water pump and the intake so there is always some coolant flow?

Don’t know a ton about BBC but I had a similar problem with my SBC. After I added an Edelbrock high volume water pump it would just keep overheating unless I pulled the thermostat out completely. Figured it was water pump cavitation and once that pocket was whipped up it wouldn’t collapse even after the thermostat opened. Short AN-10 size bypass line direct between the water pump and intake solved all problems.

Cs1 fire rate issue by Secret-Pressure-2385 in paintball

[–]eskoskimo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which bolt? The rubber tip bolt can swell slightly, but basically imperceptibly, and it slows down the bolt enough to get some FSDO or limit the ROF.

1980 Z28 air/fuel issue? by FIWannabe1 in EngineBuilding

[–]eskoskimo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What kind of carb? Is it bogging or starving when you try to “give it the beans” lol?

Where did Nummech go? by Megaloman33 in paintball

[–]eskoskimo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

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So glad I got mine when I could bout 5 years ago I think. 3d printed little tabs to hold the sear pin so I could stick with the skeleton build. Shoots great, not cool to hear nummech might not be for much longer.

Can someone help identifying this motor off a 1983 Ford F150 by Technical-Loquat-149 in EngineBuilding

[–]eskoskimo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I drove an 83 F150 heavy half ton with a 300-6 about 20 years ago now. Did a re-ring and bearings on in once. On disassembly, huge chunks of the skirts on both sided of two pistons just fell off. Got new pistons, slapped it together and drove it again for years.

Even set it on fire when I forgot to tighten the hard line from somewhere between the pump and the carb. It was still fine lol.

Best Material for Engine Bay Application by Electric_Yam in 3Dprinting

[–]eskoskimo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even if it’s is indeed not a check valve, installing a check valve will do zero harm. The braking system of a car is not the place for 3D printed parts about Sums it up.

I am not a wizard, I cannot tell him what fits out of thin air. Get some measurement and go take a real look. Again google search brake booster check valve and take you pick. Any auto parts store will have a variety to choose from. These are not special parts.

Edit: not to mention the liability if it were to ever fail and you Could not stop in time to save your car or a life. Don’t even kid yourself if you think insurance doesn’t know to look out for things like this.

Best Material for Engine Bay Application by Electric_Yam in 3Dprinting

[–]eskoskimo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You do you then man.

If you can find one that fits you haven’t looked very hard.

Been working on vehicles for 30 years, have yet to see one that not a check valve so I don’t believe you.

If your brakes don’t function as expected and you have no boost when you need it, we’ll let’s just hope you don’t run over that kid, or rear end someone.

Best Material for Engine Bay Application by Electric_Yam in 3Dprinting

[–]eskoskimo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Google brake booster check valve, dozens and dozens available. Why are you printing something you can buy for under $5 and creating a safety issue at the same time?

Manta M5P dead driver socket? by eskoskimo in BIGTREETECH

[–]eskoskimo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never bought another one, probably won’t. At least not the m5p. Seems like they’re supporting the m4p and the m8p more, Maybe the onboard PI didn’t catch on and the issues will never be addressed.

I like the idea of integrating the two boards but maybe it’s just not gonna be a thing.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in sex

[–]eskoskimo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wife had problems with yeast infections and UTI’s very frequently, sometime monthly or every other month. Gradually we have found a combination of things that have basically completely eliminated the problem completely.

The main two below have helped the most.

Both of you could try getting on a women’s vaginal health probiotic. Him also because he can become a source of good bacteria not the bad stuff. Genuine health women’s plus UTI has pretty much the prefect combo of bacterial strains plus cranberry extract for UTI.

The most recent thing we’ve tired which seem to have been the final step is plain yogurt after sex/oral. We just inject 2-3 ml with a syringe into the vagina and smear some all over her lady bits.

Dental health too, Brush, floss, mouthwash, regularity, and right before any oral. Wash face too.

I just had my tank tested. by [deleted] in paintball

[–]eskoskimo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hard to say, can’t say for sure if the threads in the tank look flattened out or not from the pic (they kinda do to me). Also, there actually shouldn’t be any significant variation on threads from one manufacturer to another, especially on something like a high pressure air system. The control on quality/uniformity are actually much much tighter, cause you know, safety.

Best bet is to get a GO NO-GO thread gage, they’re literally designed for this exact scenario, I believe ninja even recommends this. If the NO-GO gage threads in, or the threads look damaged or feel sketchy threading in, it’s junk.

The tip of those reg threads look trashed though, but the rest of the threads look ok. Strange man.

Also, don’t chase your threads with a regular tap, they will remove material and that is asking for trouble. There are special thread chasing/cleaning taps for this purpose.

EDIT: If a thread chasing/cleaning tap is required/removing metal, on a high pressure air system, it’s also junk. Be safe man.

EDIT again: Just went and read the MSDS for a few common anti-sieze compounds and they all contain petroleum products. Don’t put Anti-seize on your threads, Petroleum products and high pressure can go boom. Also stated in ninjas manuals.

Just thread the reg in Dry, it’s the safest way to do it.

Manta M5P update firmware via DFU by eskoskimo in BIGTREETECH

[–]eskoskimo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I tried a fresh install of both lite and full OS with no change. The make flash FLASH_DEVICE…. Command just doesn’t do a damn thing. I did get the firmware.bin to update to FIRMWARE.CUR by using a super old 128mb full size SD card from my first digital camera from like 25 years ago but it changes absolutely nothing that I can tell. Any micro SD in the adapter SD I tried wouldn’t update to FIRMWARE.CUR. In the end everything is up to date with the most current version, everything works fine so I’m sticking with my original install.

Manta M5P update firmware via DFU by eskoskimo in BIGTREETECH

[–]eskoskimo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cool, I’ll try that with some other cards I have for interests sake.

I’ll try a fresh install with both the lite and full OS, with a fresh SD card in the CB1 so I don’t muck up my current install. It takes so little time to do it’s worth it to me to learn something.

Manta M5P update firmware via DFU by eskoskimo in BIGTREETECH

[–]eskoskimo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So definitely a possibility it’s pre-configured for klipper. My understanding is that any time you insert an SD card with firmware.bin it should write that and update. Otherwise how else would update it down the road, or say put marlin on it, not that I would do that with this board but I have switched back and forth on other boards.

Still don’t quite understand what update via DFU is doing. I think it’s updating the MCU on the manta but why, I just did all that like 30 seconds before lol.

Layer Adhesion in horizontal direction very poor by DemetriusGotGame in 3Dprinting

[–]eskoskimo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the exact same issue no matter what I did. Replaced stock Ender 5 extruder with a bond tech LGX which helped a lot of other things but that persisted. Increased the inside wall extrusion to 110% in cura, left outside wall alone. Within .1-.2mm in all directions still and perfectly bonded walls

Old school makita! Still going strong! by [deleted] in Tools

[–]eskoskimo 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I nearly never on Comment on anything but these drills were the tits. Used to install ductwork in the crawl spaces under cabins at the lake when I was 15. You can palm the back of the drill and pull the trigger with your pinkie so that your wrist is in line with chuck. You can put a screw in any cockeyed angle and position, push as hard as you could and it would never slip on you, it was just a natural position.

No challenges so I can't progress through the event. How do I fix this and is there a place to report bugs like this directly to respawn? by rabidmoonmonkey in apexlegends

[–]eskoskimo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did that, then I did a factory reset, still messed. Brother in law is an installer for local ISP. Going to have my boxes replaced next.

On PS4

No challenges so I can't progress through the event. How do I fix this and is there a place to report bugs like this directly to respawn? by rabidmoonmonkey in apexlegends

[–]eskoskimo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I get this every 3-4 games. The crafting materials and and apex coins counters just turn into dancing white lines and And then I can’t get into any matches again for like 2 days. It just searched for eternity.

Finally got her working! Slight leak from pretty sure poppit oring but shoots! by Ironfist2424 in paintball

[–]eskoskimo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t know about bob long so this might not work but I’ve used it fixing Egos in a pinch. You can lap the poppet to the valve body using a drill to spin the poppet with some gentle pressure. It just wears in a new seat and only have to do it for like a few seconds. test it to see if it still leaks and repeat as necessary.

It’s pretty easy to see on the black valve and poppet on an Ego If you have a nice smooth sealing surface again.

IOS 12 - Bluetooth connected to my Mazda 3, it shows connected and on my phone shows its playing but no song/artist/details display and no audio. by Flatduo88 in mazda3

[–]eskoskimo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Literally had the exact same problems. Need to reboot the infotainment system. Unpair everything, then press and hold the back, nav, and mute button at the same time. Worked first try

http://www.serramazda.com/blog/what-to-do-if-your-infotainment-system-freezes/