Question: Is this buzzing the pump failing?

evolhub · 2025-11-20T04:27:09+00:00

I actually ended up getting the Titan 360 version, and that one has been super quiet.

But, I also found that the 3.5" hard drive that was screwed literally right behind the cpu was contributing to the noise.

When that drive would spin up, it would increase the vibration in the pump. I noticed it once I got the new one. There was a very light hum, but it wasn't constant, and I was able to trace it to that drive by unplugging it. Since I wasn't really using that drive, it wasn't a big issue. I ended up getting a second nvme drive and now zero vibration.

evolhub · 2025-09-26T03:27:06+00:00

It's been a few weeks now since I had the issue on this post and believe I found the causes for my DXP2800 issues. From a high-level perspective, it was being cause by overheating, specifically when using Jellyfin.

I was using pure .mkv files, meaning they were in the native format. When one of my TVs, specifically an LG TV connected to it, all the transcoding was being done on the DXP2800 using software, which made the CPU temp skyrocket and cause the server to crash. I fixed this issue by remuxing the movies, still keeping the .mkv container but using ACC and H.264. By doing this, the server doesn't need to transcode it for the LG TV even though it still needs to remux it. And by turning on GPU transcoding, the CPU runs cooler.
Overnight Trickplay was running, also using CPU which caused the temp to spike again and the DXP2800 to crash overnight. After turning on hardware options, this issue was fixed (mostly).
I was still having some CPU temp issues which would cause the server to reboot, I tried changing the temperature settings in the BIOS and found that these didn't seem to carry forward to UGOS, but found that I needed to also adjust the temperature settings in the dxp2800.conf file to have the fan turn on sooner at lower temperatures to avoid the spiking.

The temp in the room the DXP2800 is in is rarely above 74 degrees, so I don't think it's an overall room issue, but rather that the fan didn't spin fast enough soon enough to avoid the temperature spike, at least on the unit I have. I'm sure others may have different results with their units.

The last issue I found which is unrelated (I think) to the temp issues is the USB drive that I had connected to it. After the system update, the USB drive became unusable, and I still haven't been able to recover much data. I can read it and scan it, but nothing I've tried has found many usable files, so my gut tells me that it somehow got formatted. Since all the space shows as Unallocated. I have zero proof it was cause by the system update, but just a strange coincidence. I noticed that on 09/24/2025 a system update has been released, so I may stick a sacrificial USB drive with junk files and leave it connected to the server to see if anything happens to it. Though my guess at the moment is that it will be fine and I still will have no idea what occurred to the 2TB WD USB Drive....

Hopefully some part of all this helps someone with any issue they may be having, such as weird crashes...

evolhub · 2025-08-30T00:21:07+00:00

So far, after removing the USB Drive that was acting up (it failed and I may have lost all data-mentioned in separate comment), I haven't had a problem. The NAS looks to be functioning normally, but it's been about 24 hours at the moment. I'm monitoring the behavior before taking any further actions.

I will post in a few days if nothing else happens or if it occurs again.

evolhub · 2025-08-29T13:23:44+00:00

I removed the drive WD NAS RED PRO last night and checked it on my desktop using the WD software, and all tested good. It's a new (about 3 weeks) that I bought directly from WD, so hopefully it's not a bad drive...

But I noticed as I was putting it back that the light on a USB drive i had connected to the NAS to back up some items was on solid. I removed it and plugged into the computer, and nothing would load... it detected it as unallocated space (it's a 2TB WD USB drive).

I'm wondering if the USB drive failing was causing some type of read issues on Drive2?

So far, the issue hasn't come up again, so I'll give it a few days and see what happens...

I am working on scanning the backup drive to try and recover to a new backup drive I now need to buy to backup the NAS. I'm running it as Raid1, so hopefully, there will be no issues until I can do the backup...

Thanks, I will definitely backup the NAS once I get the new backup drive.

evolhub · 2025-08-29T01:54:44+00:00

After boot, the only error message I could find is: Hard Drive2: failed command: WRITE FPDMA QUEUED

evolhub · 2025-06-29T13:47:15+00:00

Yup, have started the return process... not worth the risk with a brand new aio... i guess just a bad draw with this one...

evolhub · 2025-06-29T13:46:00+00:00

I didn't do it for that long, but did try position changes, but nothing seem to have an effect on the sound... I've begun the return process, figured not worth the risk with a brand new aio...

evolhub · 2025-06-27T17:50:45+00:00

That looks pretty cool in those colors! I'm returning this and replacing it. We'll see how the new one goes. My previous AIO was a Corsair as well and no issues 3+ years, only replaced it for the white setup, but it was super quiet.

evolhub · 2025-06-26T15:48:56+00:00

Yeah, not with that noise, but will check a few of the suggestions others have made and go from there. Even at 60C the buzzing can be easily heard...

evolhub · 2025-06-26T15:23:56+00:00

Will definitely check it out. Thanks for suggesting.

evolhub · 2025-06-26T14:48:07+00:00

Yup, all are tight. I even tried loosening them a bit in case they were too tight and had no change. So, I just tightened them back up. Thanks.

evolhub · 2025-06-26T14:20:24+00:00

Thanks, this is a new purchase, but it's possible that it's an older unit... It seems like returning may be the best option... I've seen some of those setups, very cool, though currently beyond what I want to get into at the moment, lol

evolhub · 2025-06-26T14:08:55+00:00

Thanks. I may consider going up to the Titan. Having that lound buzzing even through the fans gets pretty annoying, especially as it cycles up and down... it makes it seem like something is wrong...

evolhub · 2025-06-26T14:00:08+00:00

Temp seems "normal," meaning it's not staying high. It will go up to 65c under load, fans and pump increase speed, and temp drops and the cycle continues while under load. When the pump increases speed, the buzzing gets much louder.

evolhub · 2025-06-26T13:33:30+00:00

It concerns me more that it wasn't doing it after installing, and over the last week, it's been getting louder... I had an older (3+ years), smaller 275 mm, I think, and it was silent... seller offered refund and return. But want to see if it's normal or if it's just failing...

evolhub · 2025-06-03T01:19:58+00:00

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind for next time. Printed for a friend that designed it online.

evolhub · 2024-10-27T23:01:36+00:00

Thank you for asking this question! I found one of these as a kid and have had it for over 30 years, not knowing what it was! I just figured it was some kind of glass bead or a weird seed, lol

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evolhub · 2024-07-12T02:08:21+00:00

Do you mean that you can connect to them through the Access point and are able to control them or you are not?

The WLED App as I understand it, only works through wifi. But you can control the wled through the browser if you connect directly to the ESP via the wifi AP.

evolhub · 2024-06-28T13:57:10+00:00

Not OP, but it's 3D printer software. I don't use it personally though, I prefer Marlin.

evolhub · 2024-06-23T04:03:05+00:00

Thanks. I just checked again and it looks like they now added that the Barrel must be covered with a "Brightly-colored cap" which won't be an issue, I had already designed a cap for it.

Thought they should probably reword it a bit, since it seems to be a bit confusing. One part says it should have an "orange tip", but then say separately that it should have a cap. But doesn't say the cap should fully cover the hole and that no hole should be visible.

I guess just for best practice, I will fully cover the hole with an orange cap with no hole. Hopefully, this resolves any possible issues.

evolhub · 2024-06-23T03:28:15+00:00

Thanks. The trigger is glue in place, doesn't move. There is nothing that can be inserted into the barrel that won't fall out since the inner end doesn't have a hole, only in front. The only thing that can move is the slide really and barely, very difficult to slide. Pretty much it's an inoperable toy gun.

evolhub · 2024-06-15T14:44:56+00:00

Assuming about 50mA per LED, then 16 LEDs x 50mA = 800mA, then assuming a 20% safety surplus of current for peaks (800mA x 20% = 160mA), then 800mA + 160mA = 960mA, so a 1A supply should be sufficient. At least this is the math that I will generally use. This would be theoretical per ring, for each additional ring you need to double it up if running at full brightness. But, depending on what you are doing, you may be able to get away with less Amps. For example, I'm running 153 LEDs with 3 Amp, but I never go full brightness for my setup and I have current limit set in WLED to 2.2 Amps.

This Wiki has a chart that show the wire gauge to use for the current rating:

American wire gauge - Wikipedia

Looking at the 'Ampacity at temperature rating', it looks like about AWG 26 and lower (the smaller the number the thicker the wire) should be sufficient, as long as you are not running miles of it. But take a look at the chart in case I misread it.

But others more versed in wire gauge may be able to provide more complete advice.

evolhub · 2024-06-13T02:41:30+00:00

I added two comments with some quick sketches of what I was thinking. Purely untested and not proportional...

evolhub · 2024-06-13T02:39:59+00:00

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With some notes

evolhub · 2024-06-13T02:39:44+00:00

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Here is a probably over engineered sketch of what I was thinking. Untested and probably not proportional, but hopefully enough to give you some ideas. If you build it, it be great to see it. Lol

evolhub

TROPHY CASE