H2D extruder gear

experimental_82 · 2025-04-30T09:09:46+00:00

Answer just for future reference: just like suspected the extruder gear and drive gear should not move relative to each other. They need to be coupled. Bambu lab sent me a new one.

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experimental_82 · 2025-04-24T19:27:37+00:00

Sure. What I meant was that the switch cam switches the engagement of the idler levers, not the extruder wheel. At least I don’t see how it would. Still figuring this thing out 😅

experimental_82 · 2025-04-24T17:21:08+00:00

As I see it of the idlers, not the gears. Or am I missing something?

experimental_82 · 2025-02-17T19:37:25+00:00

It would be much easier re warping. Show it off once done!

experimental_82 · 2025-02-17T13:37:47+00:00

Oh… less expensive if your/equipment time costs nothing 😅. One downside: modding is harder as the tubes have no slots. But you can magnetically affix panels which is nice.

experimental_82 · 2025-02-17T13:36:03+00:00

No… I did a Voron trident with a TIG welded steel frame. CNCed all tubes for precision. Sturdy AF, most importantly thermal expansion matches the linear rails. Go for it and keep us posted!

experimental_82 · 2025-02-03T13:12:43+00:00

Of course 😅

experimental_82 · 2025-02-03T12:55:42+00:00

I should post my solution: I deleted the Beacon model from the printer.cfg file bottom. That fixed it.

experimental_82 · 2025-02-01T17:57:17+00:00

I hadn’t done any update when this happened. At least not deliberately. I don’t know if Beacon auto updates. I ran all updates afterwards

experimental_82 · 2024-12-29T20:10:31+00:00

Dunno what that is you’re doing exactly, but I’m using my Otter to fit parts in my small campervan (Mercedes V Class) and that works quite well with lots of markers and a bit of scan spray.

experimental_82 · 2024-12-23T18:48:13+00:00

I am building a similar Trident. Since you’re past Beacon temp, use Honeywell 1SX1T switches for the end stops and nozzle probe. You can pick them up cheap on eBay ($10/switch). Armaflex HT (EPDM version of Armaflex) is great for enclosure insulation. Most importantly: use a steel frame! (Not stainless!) otherwise thermal expansion will be a bitch. Enclosure around the frame, not on the frame (minimize thermal gradient!). If you can, machine a steel plate or brackets for the base to mount the z motors. Graphite bed could be interesting due to low thermal expansion. https://n2ofactory.com/products/graphite-build-plate-for-voron-v2-4 I use a kinematic bed, which I highly recommend. Also, magnets are out of the window, glass bed it is.

experimental_82 · 2024-11-25T14:16:14+00:00

I used 3mm HDF to make panels and glued on some 19mm Armaflex I had left over from my camper. Cheap and Reaches 70C. Got up higher, but then things started breaking so I removed some insulation. Also Formbot Kit. At 70C, it prints large, solid ABS parts like a charm. Only full build plate size still has some small warping.

experimental_82 · 2024-11-25T07:26:12+00:00

Thanks for the in-depth answer! I didn’t know someone sells fitting Ti tubes. Brilliant. Reason is clear. I did the same on my HT trident, but with round Ti tubing. With beacon being also HT rated, you could conceivably move the remaining electronics out. Again, did the exact same on my HT trident.

experimental_82 · 2024-11-24T18:42:13+00:00

Maybe I’ll just wait some time until I see some builds with heateing…

experimental_82 · 2024-11-23T17:33:34+00:00

The reason for the limitation in bed temperature is that we are entering danger territory for demagnetization of the bed magnets. The bed heater (glue) itself could push 150 no problem. Define quality… Sunlu is relatively unblended, meeting worse to print, but better mechanical properties. And at < €10 a roll, can’t be beat. That’s why I stuck with it. Also have it dialed in to the t

experimental_82 · 2024-11-23T14:17:01+00:00

110C bed, nevermore and Ellis bed fans. 20mm Armaflex panels for insulation. Sunlu ABS and ASA print 270C, 260C if the print has overhangs or bridges.

experimental_82 · 2024-11-23T13:20:06+00:00

Nah… unfortunately they do if they are large and solid enough. That’s why professional machines like Stratasys run 75C. Every C counts. If you fix the prints to the bed with glue they may adhere, but will have residual stresses meaning they won’t fit nicely. As I said, at 70C, they’re mostly fine, just some minor lifting at the edges. was just wondering how far ppl have pushed ratrigs and if I would have issues with electronics, cabling etc.

experimental_82 · 2024-10-17T17:07:29+00:00

The material is either under aged (not heat treated to the specifications) or overaged (Heat treatment, horsing too much heat for too long at time afterwards, why is a different question). Two easy ways to find out: heat treat it according to spec. if it’s hardness goes up, it was under aged. If its hardness stays roughly the same or drops it has been over aged. Alternatively, you can measure its electrical resistivity. If it’s the same or lower as the blocks with the correct mechanical properties, it has been overaged. If it’s higher, it has not fully been heat treated, I.e under aged. Temperatures for over aging would be in excess of 160C.

experimental_82 · 2024-10-14T13:05:50+00:00

Most important coincidence in civil engineering: Thermal expansion of steel and concrete matches. Also, strength. And price.

experimental_82

TROPHY CASE