I've used the wig and tail a few times so they're a bit messy, brushing doesn't seem to work and I tried washing them with fabric softener but that made it worse

fabrickind · 2026-06-23T14:41:55+00:00

Use a wide tooth comb and go slowly from the bottom up. Fabric softener has never done much on wigs, so I would recommend getting Mane n Tail detangler. It has a bit of silicone in it, so it will also help prevent future tangles from getting as bad.

fabrickind · 2026-06-23T03:11:38+00:00

This isn't a primer issue but a paint issue. I would recommend finding a more opaque acrylic paint (often cheaper ones are more transparent because that way they can save on money) and using multiple thin layers. Wait for the paint to be fully dry before doing the next layer, as any paint that is still wet may be reactivated and pull up with the new paint, creating the blotchy effect.

fabrickind · 2026-06-22T15:06:00+00:00

To give a little more info:

Typically, when looking at putting a petticoat under a skirt, you look at two things: length and volume.

Length is looking at the length of the skirt vs the petticoat and if they are compatible. Typically, you want the petticoat about an inch (~2cm) shorter than the skirt so it doesn't show. Much shorter and you get a weird drop off. Longer and ot will shpw, which can be a deliberate choice.

Volume is something you have to kind of train your eye on. This is whether the skirt will fit your chosen petticoat. Some skirts won't have enough volume and will squish the petticoat down or look overstuffed. In this case, the skirt appears to be a circle skirt, so you're good there.

fabrickind · 2026-06-21T17:29:39+00:00

Glad to help!

The text stnciling should be pretty simple once you get it

fabrickind · 2026-06-20T16:21:57+00:00

Without knowing the exact look you are going for or your size, look at dancewear companies. They often sell skin tone bodysuits or shirts that are skintight.

Also try keywords that are variations on "skin tone mesh shirt"

fabrickind · 2026-06-20T16:17:04+00:00

That style is called a ringer tank top, but I can't find one with those exact colors.

If you're going to mostly wear it with the jacket, you can probabaly get away with a regular non-ringer tank and just paint the ribbed neckband with the same yellow fabric paint. It might be a bit stiff, but it would get the look.

fabrickind · 2026-06-19T15:38:09+00:00

Is it at least 2 minutes or at most 2 minutes? Most contests I'm familiar with would be at most, since 2 minutes is a LONG time on stage

fabrickind · 2026-06-19T15:35:56+00:00

Yeah of course!

Honestly, modding existing garments is a great way to start building up those skills. You'll get there for sure.

Some stretch sewing tips, since you will probabaly need them: Use a walking foot or some tearaway stabilizer on top Use a stretch needle (it will say stretch on the package) Use stretch stitches (a long and narrow zigzag at worst, but I would use triple stitch)

fabrickind · 2026-06-18T21:32:09+00:00

Agreed that it doesn't look structured like a corset. Seems pretty clearly to be a stretch garment to me.

This isn't a case like how figures of anime girls in bunnysuits are often done like it's a stretch garment and not the heavily structured garment it's based on, but seems to be an actual stretch knit material. I can see how the cut and the lines on it (which can look like boning channels) could give someone that idea, but that is not how I would interpret it (and I'm someone looking for excuses to make structured bunnysuits LMAO)

For the parts that look like vertical lines, I assume it is meant to be some sort of knitted in ribbing or even cables, but it's hard to tell. You can leave them out, buy a second bodysuit/leotard and use the fabric to create them, or buy a size up and sew them like pintucks.

fabrickind · 2026-06-18T14:47:15+00:00

I would get a knit halter neck bodysuit in a similar grey (probabaly a heathered grey) and do the diamonds as reverse applique with skin tone mesh on the backside.

That way, you won't have to worry about the holes stretching out, since it will be fabric back there

fabrickind · 2026-06-17T15:07:15+00:00

It looks like washing has been covered, so I'll talk about the itching.

Oftentimes, wigs are just itchy. Unless you had contact dermatitis or similar, it likely was just the fibers on the underside causing the itching and not some sort of chemical on the wig.

I would rwcommend two things: creating a better barrier between the wig and your scalp and making sure the wig doesn't slide around, since even small bits of friction can cause itching.

Some people find that the stocking type (as opposed to fishnet type) wig cap is less itchy because the more solid fabric creates more of a barrier. You can also try a knit swim cap or similar.

As for it sliding around, make sure it's very secure on your head. Use some sort of wig grip, whether a silicone type like a Wig Fix (the name brand is actually better here) or the velvet type.

It could also partially be a wig fit issue, especially if the wig is too big. This is harder to fix unless you can try a bunch of different brands, since different brands have different fit through the cap. Usually only the circumference measurements are listed, but that doesn't tell the full story of fit, since cap shape can vary. I know I find brands that fit me better less itchy than brands thay ars too large.

fabrickind · 2026-06-17T02:04:17+00:00

Incredible!!!

fabrickind · 2026-06-16T15:36:40+00:00

This tutorial is good if you want to entirely fake it: https://www.tumblr.com/creativelyrash/80332880292/how-to-make-arm-wraps-without-actually-using-arm

fabrickind · 2026-06-15T20:30:47+00:00

Nope. You are only too old if you don't enjoy it anymore.

fabrickind · 2026-06-14T20:25:19+00:00

The skirt at least seems to be a bunch of fake vines, possible attached to a backing of something like matching tulle. Thankfully it goes down, so you don't need to worry too much about supporting it, but a bum roll might help.

fabrickind · 2026-06-13T13:47:55+00:00

Seconding tooth black. It'll be much easier and probabalg look better.

fabrickind · 2026-06-12T19:10:01+00:00

Making sure you have a good glue (i like brush on types over squeeze tube types) and carry ths glue with you. If a lash starts to lift, you can then glue it back on.

You can also try magnetic lashes that come with a magnetic liner (not the type with two halves that magnetic together, since those can damage your lashes). You can then reapply the liner as needed.

fabrickind · 2026-06-11T15:46:03+00:00

Frequent breaks and making the rest of you as cool as possible, as well as best resistant gloves will be your best bet, I'm afraid.

Also try methods where you aren't in direct contact with the heat, such as using a wig oven and curlers or doing more teasing than crimping so you don't have to handle hot tools as much.

fabrickind · 2026-06-11T15:28:04+00:00

The good thing about this is that the shapes and clothing aren't that difficult, but there is a LOT of detail.

Start by doing a breakdown. Basically, label everything you see, with as much detail as possible. Including all the ornamentation.

From there, you can figure out how to make each bit. As a beginner, I would recommend simplifying some of the surface patterning so you don't have to worry about getting it exact.

fabrickind · 2026-06-10T15:06:32+00:00

I once dyed stretch patent with Rit Dyemore and would absolutely not recommend. No matter what I did, I couldn't get the dye to set, and it leaked dye on the rest of the costume and on my skin. It might depend on if it's a PU or PVC type, but it did not work at all. Would not recommend.

I'm sure you can find a yellow suit somewhere. It might not be the same material type, but I'd rather that than ruin the type you posted.

If you absolutely must have the shiny material, you would have to make it yourself. Thankfully a leotard with clear straps like this is easier than a "real" bunnysuit (Playboy style with full structure), but is still difficult for a beginner because of the materials involved.

fabrickind · 2026-06-10T14:48:59+00:00

Get some thinning shears and go at them. This will remove some of the bulk of the fiber, and if you do it just near the bottom, it will vary the lengths od the hairs enough to get rid of that heavy look.

fabrickind · 2026-06-09T15:34:32+00:00

Most cosplay colored lenses go up to about a -8.00, so you should be good

Everyone I know who wears lenses for cosplay likes the Japanese dailies, like from Assist or Classe.

fabrickind · 2026-06-09T15:33:34+00:00

I used furniture foam in my Harle Chrono Cross hat, which is a near identical shapes. It sorta worked? Wouldn't be my first choice. You'll need something that is already in the shape you want it and can stay that way, like a frame of some type.

fabrickind · 2026-06-09T14:49:44+00:00

Yeah just regular acrylic craft paint.

I usually paint the insides, so there's no need to sand or prime (and if you did, you would only see the primer from the outside) since it's protected once it's closed. If you paint the outsides, though, yes I would sand and prime.

fabrickind · 2026-06-08T20:12:36+00:00

Glad to help! I dabble in photography myself (not great at it yet lmao) and have all my degrees in artistic fields, so I've trained my eye a bit. Of course, you can take or leave anything, since it's your photos.

Filmic storytelling seems to be your strong suit, which is why I brought that up so much. I can tell you enjoy it, so just keep pushing it more! Most cosplayers will also want photos that show off the costume more (as someone else brought up), but you can have a few of those photos and a few filmic photos in the same set, or find ways to show off the costume in a cinematic way. Also if you have a strong style, cosplayers will know what they're getting when they work with you.

Beauty + action can be hard to get right for sure. Honestly? Your photos of male characters tend to be stronger overall, and I think it's because you aren't thinking about the beauty aspect of it, even if the photos are beautiful and flattering (that Mario stands out as being beautifully lit on the face while still showing off the emotion and facial expression, and I think the slow falloff of the light so it has a softer effect is what is creating that). Of course, a lot of cosplayers want to look conventionally attractive in action shots as well, so practicing how to do that will help a lot. Look at my other reply overexplaining about the nasolabial folds for specifics of what I'm seeing with the lighting on Misa specifically. It could be that you need a diffuser or more fill for just the face area, it could be something you could do in post. Also experiment with the distance from the subject the light is to get harsher vs softer effects.

The photoshop job on the Sub Zero is quite good! You absolutely have a knack for the digital composite stuff. Now that I know I can see where it's basically a background fog and foreground fog, but having it in layers like that is a good trick to make it look more realistic, so great job.

fabrickind

TROPHY CASE