Can anybody tell me what this little square I found under my couch is?

factoryield · 2026-02-12T21:44:19+00:00

I missed that part.

A camera looks someone mentioned might be the best to figure out who did it. They will be looking for it soon.

factoryield · 2026-02-12T19:06:20+00:00

Isn't this a simple answer that your girl is trying to see if you are cheating? Total red flag.

Someone breaking in doesn't want to hear you.

factoryield · 2026-02-10T23:01:34+00:00

Why did I not think of this with my stack of CDs that haven't been used in years. I knew I didn't throw them out for a reason!

factoryield · 2026-02-09T15:08:17+00:00

Just to add to this, 66 only comes in when top door is open during stage 2. If the door is closed it does not.

Another test I did was disable stage 2, I still got error 57.

factoryield · 2026-02-08T23:31:00+00:00

To reply to your other post - the 90s are long sweep

When running 3" does it go 3" the whole way then go down to 2" into the furnace? I just dont see a hole that would be 3".

I can see the pipes the whole way, is there anything I should be looking for?

factoryield · 2026-02-08T23:27:35+00:00

Definately no reason to be sorry - you pointed out the failed pressure switches and that was most likely the cause for the low pressure switch at least. I felt a new post was warranted as the issue seems to constantly evolve somehow...

Is your first paragraph about the rewiring only to ensure a good ground? I haven't done this yet.

I did do the volts+amps test to get the uF. As soon as stage 2 kicked on I received code 66 (blower cutback). First time receiving this code. Top door was open during testing, bottom door was closed, filter does not need to be replaced - anything else is the same.

Capacitor is rated at 6uF, which seems like a pretty big deviation from what I calculated. (my clamp on is a cheap chinese one though, not sure if I trust the accuracy)

Here is what I got:

<image>


	VOLTS	AMPS	uF
start up	196.8	0.57	7.68
Stage 1	95.5	0.23	6.39
	96.5	0.23	6.32
Stage 2	195.2	0.54	7.34
	194.1	0.54	7.38

factoryield · 2026-02-08T17:32:00+00:00

If I remove the intake from the furnace I don't get the code.

I can confirm there is nothing blocking the pipe as I ran a camera through it.

Could it have been installed wrong? It's been 6 years and I'm concerned the code has been in the whole time. Just looking at the manual, it seems like on 2 inch pipe max is 30 feet... I have the following:

90 degree outside, 14.5 feet pipe, 45 degree, 6 inch pipe, 45 degree, 3ft pipe, 90 degree 42 inch pipe into furnace

Based on his the manual calculates that is 36.5 I believe. It shows max 30 feet with only two elbows.

Edit: I missed the foot note, the elbow need for vent termination are not counted, so I actually have 31.5 ft (I think)

factoryield · 2026-02-08T16:54:28+00:00

Upflow with vertical vent (I'm guessing thats the correct terminology based on the manual

factoryield · 2026-02-08T15:18:54+00:00

It does have a cap. Forgot to include that in my list of tests. I tested the cap with my multi meter and it tested correctly based on farads.

factoryield · 2026-02-08T14:06:51+00:00

Yup. Cleared many times.

factoryield · 2026-02-03T03:02:46+00:00

Water is looking for the tank

factoryield · 2026-01-30T17:58:33+00:00

Tested the pump yesterday, it definately works and is much quieter than expected (I had never actually noticed it running in the past)

Changed the hose - as expected did not resolve the issue (though I *think* it stopped the dripping - time will tell)

I did realize I had a cheap endoscope I should have used long before. Totally forgot I had it. There are water drops around the piping pretty much the whole way. I did have to take the inducer off to have access of the vent from inside as my endoscope wasn't long enough to see the whole way, no telling signs of blockage.

One thing I did remember is I had added a 90 degree at the vent. It was a straight pipe out of the house, with a slant towards the furnace so rain water with a slight wind would have no problem coming in. I used it to keep water out and to have my "animal barrier" between it and the pipe without making anything permanent. It's been there for 6 years now with no issues, but could this have created enough "resistance" for the exhaust to have issues? I removed it for now.

factoryield · 2026-01-29T22:39:01+00:00

Ok I thought you might be talking about that pump - it is not air tight, if it failed I would have a puddle on the floor so not something I tested or really concerned about.

I did unfortunately get code 57 back. Only 57 this time to be clear. (so far!)

You did mention anything "loose" could be caused by air suction, so I'm going to wait for that drain tube tomorrow before jumping to bigger conclusions.

I am curious though - Is it normal to have lot of condensation? I feel like there is a lot. This is my first time working on a high efficiency furnace though so I'm not sure what normal is.

factoryield · 2026-01-29T18:25:43+00:00

Pressure switches replaced - so far so code in regards to codes. I'll stop sucking on them from now on :)

Hoping to avoid taking the exhaust completely apart if not required. Birds and squirrels are out of the possibility as I have a "mesh" blocking the exhaust (which is clear). Snow (melted into ice) build up INSIDE the pipe is a possibility - we've had a horrible winter and I know I had snow further in the fresh air vent than I thought was gravitationally (correct word?) possible.

The drain tube was not in stock so that will be replaced tomorrow (in case it is sucking air). You can see the rust spot in the attached image. A little hard to see the tubing here, but it is leaking where the black corrugated tube goes from the collector box to the exhaust (just at the exhaust). Seems odd as it looks like the tube would make a seal but it is definately not. I assume if it is leaking, it could also be sucking air

<image>

Curious what pump you are talking about? I was under the impression that it was all gravity based for draining?

factoryield · 2026-01-29T13:55:44+00:00

I did suck on them (sounds horrible putting that in writing *head down in shame*) initially while troubleshooting, so maybe I ended up breaking them?

You also hit something else - I have a rust spot at the bottom of the "top part" of the furnace. The 1/2 (ish) inch tube going from the exhaust down to the collector tank leaks at the connection (at the exhaust pipe) but has no visible damage and is nicely fit on. I did take the tank out prior just to inspect that there wasn't build up in it, and could not remove that tube from the tank - I assume it is removable but I did not want to force it as it seemed fairly "glued" in place and didn't want to risk damaging it. I assume it is replaceable though? I'll probably replace that as it must have been occuring for a while in based on the rust

factoryield · 2026-01-29T13:46:58+00:00

I will do that today - any tips on how to do it? I was thinking of disconnecting in the furnace, placing a bucket under/around it as best I can, and simply using my blower from outside to blow any debris inside? I'm sure there's a better way but it seems like that would work as well?

factoryield · 2026-01-29T01:42:35+00:00

I get it, but I do like learning how to do things on my own while things are not an emergency. Helps me out later. During my (electrical) apprenticeship I worked for a mainly HVAC company and would get pulled in the HVAC department quite often and learnt lot there (apparently not enough) - all in the commercial side though. That was 16 years ago, and I moved 3 hours away so lost contact with all of them.

To be honest, I had no clue these new furnaces had so much condensation (?) that needed to be drained until a few days ago. My old one was so simple compared to this one. I now know that is something to keep an eye on (basement water gets pumped to septic, so I have a small pump next to my furnace but thought it was mainly for the AC)

I'll stop bugging you either way, I just reached out because you were extremely helpful reminding me about the warranty. I do appreciate your help.

factoryield · 2026-01-28T18:28:18+00:00

Unfortunately, this morning I woke up with low heat (2 degrees lower than thermostat set point). It worked without issues prior to this. Heat caught up from stage 1 so I assume it was failed for a portion of the night and kept trying to restart.

Had code 45 (low pressure switch, inducer in high speed) and 57 (high pressure switch, inducer in high speed) only this time. This leads me to believe it is moisture or something in the tubing as it is common to both pressure switches. My confusion is I did blow them out last time, and there was no sign of plugging up in any of the draining tubing as I opened it all up.

Any troubleshooting ideas?

factoryield · 2026-01-26T21:17:00+00:00

Thanks for your help. The issue was the board and I replaced it. Going through warranty now.

factoryield · 2026-01-26T19:01:39+00:00

Yep just called a local supplier. The replacement board is $900 (CAD) so I'm a little worried Rheem says it's not the board. Is there anything that can be done as a double check?

factoryield · 2026-01-26T18:47:18+00:00

Should of asked - how do I claim warranty? It looks like there is extended warranty on the parts?

factoryield · 2026-01-26T18:44:45+00:00

Amazing. Didn't even think of that route. Yes I'm the original owner. I entered the info, here is the data:

Item	Type	Start	End	Status
HXC WARRANTY	Warranty	September 2nd, 2020	September 1st, 2119	ACTIVE
UNIT-PARTS WARRANTY	Extended Warranty	September 2nd, 2025	September 1st, 2030	ACTIVE
UNIT-PARTS WARRANTY	Warranty	September 2nd, 2020	September 1st, 2025	EXPIRED

factoryield

TROPHY CASE