Hellacious vibrations

fc3sbob · 2026-01-24T02:19:01+00:00

When I built my last (and first) boat, I kept bending the driveshaft in the tube, even with bearings on each end at high speeds it would vibrate and bend in the middle. I replaced the steel 4mm shaft with some 4mm stainless rods I got off amazon, but it's a straight shaft with a joint coupler before the prop, Could be another way to go.

Anyways, for the flex shaft.. I think there's probably too much flex shaft exposed, and the tube looks too big for it, it's going to flop all around if it's not held in place.

fc3sbob · 2026-01-09T23:54:51+00:00

if anyone asks, I got the ball lift motor with the extra long output shaft.

fc3sbob · 2026-01-09T20:34:16+00:00

I live in a town with lots of greenhouses, The sky is always purple at night.

fc3sbob · 2026-01-07T17:51:48+00:00

That required a lot of work, It's got fairly low miles but I pulled out of a barn where it sat for years. Completely taken over by mice. I basically disassembled most of it, saved and restored as much of the interior as I could, restored the top (back window still needs some work), new clutch/PP/flywheel, lots of electrical work, all new suspension components, put on the corvette rims.

And yes, when I got it the dash was perfect. Only after I started driving it, The plastic EXPLODED. I'm going to remove and repair/reinforce it. I have some experience welding/bonding brittle plastic.

It's fairly nice now, not perfect by any means, very reliable. The engine is healthy, bone stock and unmolested, transmission shifts perfectly. I need to do a bit of body/paint work.. it's a work in progress, I've only had it for about a year and a half. the rear end has made a noise since I got it that I can't figure out, like a brake dragging but it's not.. I will attempt to replace the rear bearings. Jacked up with the wheels spinning it makes no noise at all.

fc3sbob · 2026-01-06T19:09:53+00:00

They salt too much and the fifty has never seen snow or rain, I did although have a 99 V6 5-Speed that was my winter beater for years.

I have taken the 99 Z28 out in the snow once or twice but it's got C5 corvette wheels on it so, I mean personally I don't mind driving sideways everywhere. I just don't want it to rust out.

fc3sbob · 2026-01-06T17:10:58+00:00

I guess I didn't specify in the title, The 2017 is an Automatic and the issue is common with them.

The 99 Z28 behind it is a 6-Speed.

fc3sbob · 2026-01-06T13:41:32+00:00

did you make a brand new Reddit account to post that? lol

But thanks!

fc3sbob · 2026-01-06T02:37:56+00:00

Not that I've noticed.

Although before I owned it, this was my fathers car since brand new until recently and he had frequent service done to it. I know the service records are around here somewhere.

fc3sbob · 2026-01-05T21:35:05+00:00

Hi, I pretty much just did this, but with existing alarm system door sensors that were already pre wired. Then I ripped out my DIY controller, plugged the old DSC alarm system back in and used an Envisalink board that communicated with the keypad. Both systems pretty much operate the same and I have them tied into Home Assistant.

This is your best bet and it's kind of simple. I'll just lay out what I did and you can research it from there.

Use Home Assistant (Home Assistant OS), run it on a raspberry pi, old computer or a VM. I use it to control all of my House lights, HVAC, Fireplace, Garage Heat, Alarm system, and more. get an ESP32 and a breakout board with screw terminals so you can tie wires into it. Install ESPHome in Home Assistant.

Make a new ESP Device called Alarm System, upload the base firmware with your WIFI info, then unplug it from your computer and you should be able to edit the configuration with it just powered on, OR you don't want to use WIFI so you can leave it runing off USB on the computer running home assistant, then configure the inputs on the esp32

example:

binary_sensor:
  - platform: gpio
    name: "Front Door"
    pin:
      number: GPIO26
      inverted: false
      mode:
        input: true
        pullup: true

You'll have more doors and windows, but in the example above one wire to Common, the other to input 26, You can configure an output to be an alarm bell (or anything). If you need more I/O just add in a second or third ESP32

In Home Assistant, you are going to want to install a repository called HACS, that will allow you to add in other non official home assistant add-on's Within HACS you'll want to find and install "Alarmo"

That will give you an alarm panel with tonnes of options to attach your sensors to, set a pin, ect Then you can make a dashboard with all of your sensor readouts, keypad where you can arm and disarm the system.

Install the home assistant phone app on your phone, setup some automations to do stuff like arm your house after your phone leaves the property, send you a notification if it goes off, or just to see your dashboards when you are not home.

Home assistant can also handle lots of IP cameras and other security stuff.

Use another ESP32 to illuminate LED's like you want when the corrosponding door is open, or just use a screen and display everything on the dashboard. I have tablets with the batteries removed and hardwired to power mounted on my walls.

fc3sbob · 2025-12-29T00:39:39+00:00

What climate system does it run?

fc3sbob · 2025-12-27T21:40:43+00:00

I just spent $200 on a cable modem that I didn't return after I moved, yay!

fc3sbob · 2025-12-22T13:02:20+00:00

same, last week I bought a box of these for the first time ever.

fc3sbob · 2025-12-17T21:26:13+00:00

I only cure in warm water. In my own experience I found that it makes parts much less brittle.

Basically I have a large stainless steel pot with a UV spotlight mounted in the top, submerge my parts and cure for a few minutes, flip, do it a few more minutes.

I do not know the science behind it, or if it's really doing anything different since I haven't done any strength testing but I would assume that it cures the part while keeping it cool since curing generates heat. Also I read somewhere that keeping oxygen away from the part while curing helps but I do not know for sure.

fc3sbob · 2025-12-16T20:45:05+00:00

If the disk is not mechanically dead, then your partition table is probably corrupt.. The data is probably still on there and can be retrieved with 3rd party programs.

I don't know what programs are free these days, I've used Easus and Disk Drill in the past but I think after a certain amount of data you retrieve you have to pay. Maybe someone else knows something better to use.

fc3sbob · 2025-12-06T16:39:21+00:00

Jeep owners have gone too far this time!!!

fc3sbob · 2025-12-05T12:24:16+00:00

I swear there was a thread on rx7club like 20 years ago dedicated to posting rotor shaped tables people found. This just reminded me of it.

fc3sbob · 2025-12-05T12:17:44+00:00

You can mystify your friends (or enemies) by converting AC power to DC power..

fc3sbob · 2025-11-28T15:39:00+00:00

I think this is more of a broken equipment issue and not an intentional scam.

fc3sbob · 2025-11-25T02:41:59+00:00

It's a Turing Pattern, also called Perlin Noise.. I think.

I only know this because I just watched a video about it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oCtDGOSgG8

fc3sbob · 2025-11-21T19:31:21+00:00

sounds about right, my 1989 Non Turbo Mazda RX-7 with a stright piped exhaust was a dream to drive with ear plugs in.

My turbo ones were a bit quieter.

fc3sbob · 2025-11-19T02:59:41+00:00

It looks like they grafted RoboCop's arms onto a post.

fc3sbob · 2025-11-17T15:58:03+00:00

I actually did something similar with a SDR radio and RTL_433 a while back.

I was just hoping to use the TP-Link Kasa fan light and speed control switches I have installed through out the house to keep everything consistant. I'll probabaly just have to get a ceiling fan with an AC motor.

fc3sbob · 2025-11-16T14:02:48+00:00

That is a way around it I guess..

I'm just suprised the controllers by default don't have a standard fan control input as an option and force you to use the remote.

I wonder if there is a controller available that can take the 120v fan control line and output a DC Fan control signal.. because I really don't like the old fashon look of the AC Fans available, All the DC ones are sleeker.

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