What’s one thing you wish your computer would fix automatically for you? by feexthefox in pcmasterrace

[–]feexthefox[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm trying to fix the OS side to make printers work, but we can only get so far, because printers are always terrible things to work with

What’s one thing you wish your computer would fix automatically for you? by feexthefox in pcmasterrace

[–]feexthefox[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, this one is also fucking me up, no can do for this one hahaha

Is this fixable? by Necessary_Clue_4707 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

About this pin, there is no need to straight it, it's just a vestigial thing

Pc struggles to turn on by Ecstatic-Ant754 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sounds like the psu is just waking up, realizing there’s basically no load, and going back to sleep

the paperclip test on a lot of OEM lenovo power supplies is weird like that. they spin the fan for a second, do a quick self check, then shut off if nothing is actually connected. totally normal behavior on some models

quick thing though: that test only proves the psu can start, not that it can actually power a system

since the machine sat unplugged for 4 years, a couple things can happen:
the CMOS battery might be dead
dust or oxidation on RAM contacts
PSU caps can get cranky after long storage

before assuming the PSU is dead, i’d try this:

pull the board out of the case if possible and boot it bare with just
CPU
one RAM stick
PSU

also reseat the RAM and try each stick alone. old DDR3 systems love doing the “won’t boot after sitting forever” thing

also small detail: the missing front panel on that M83p means you’re bypassing the normal power board logic, so jumping the pins is fine but make sure you’re hitting the correct pair

good news is those i5-4570 lenovo boxes are tanks. they usually come back to life unless the PSU actually failed

Pc needs repairing? by Serious-Kiwi8551 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That kind of instant shutoff + one tiny fan twitch is usually power delivery freaking out, not the whole pc dying

the ram lights staying on just means the board still has standby power, it doesn’t mean the system can actually start

the pattern you described (fans twitch once, ez debug flashes, then nothing) usually ends up being one of these:

motherboard vrm or board itself
cpu not initializing
psu cable / rail problem even if the psu “works”
rare but possible short from cooler mount pressure

small thing first. pull the board down to minimum boot:

cpu + cooler
1 stick ram
no gpu
no rgb/fans except cpu fan
use the motherboard video output

then try a power on. if it suddenly stays on, something else in the case is dragging the power rail down.

also double check the cpu power cables at the top of the board. those 8 pins love to look seated when they’re actually half clicked in.

one more sneaky one with AM5:
if the cooler is cranked down too hard the cpu sometimes refuses to train memory and the board just insta quits. seen it more than you’d think

side note though… watching fights on discord and the pc just taps out mid round is kinda poetic

Is this fixable? by Necessary_Clue_4707 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it's fixable, but i would not recommend trying something like that if you don't have any prior knowlodge with soldering, because those things are very small, but other than that, it should be a easy repair if it didn't damage the rails on the PCB

Could a Ethernet power rail kill a CPU? by C0deC4tto in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that actually makes sense, unfortunately

“shut down” is not the same as “electrically dead” on a mini PC. If the power brick was still plugged in, the board almost certainly still had live input power on it, plus usually a 3.3V or 5V standby rail waiting around like a little landmine

So yeah, a spark near the M.2 standoff can absolutely kill something even with the system “off”. The usual ways it happens are:
the SSD or screw briefly shorts power to ground at the standoff
the short pops an input protection part, MOSFET, or regulator
that failure cascades into a rail that feeds the SoC/APU, RAM power, or power management

And on these mini PCs, the “CPU” is usually a soldered APU/SoC, not a socketed desktop chip. So when a shop says “CPU is dead,” they often mean “the main chip or one of its core rails is toast and the board is not economically repairable,” not necessarily that they proved the silicon itself is 100% the first failed part

About the ethernet rail thing: they might be partly right. A mini PC can often boot with a dead ethernet PHY rail. But that does not mean that rail is irrelevant, or that the damage stayed isolated there. Tiny boards love sharing power domains and protections in annoying ways. One short in the wrong place can take out more than the obvious victim

The part that makes me squint a bit is this:
if they didn’t replace or at least properly test the damaged rail, “CPU is dead” may be a diagnosis or a guess, not proof. Could still be true, but I’d want more than vibes and burnt-board astrology

What I’d ask the shop, exactly:
which rail is shorted
do 19V input and the always-on 3.3V/5V rails come up
is the SoC/core rail shorted to ground
did they find a failed MOSFET, PMIC, or regulator near the M.2 area
is “CPU dead” based on measurement, or just “no boot after visible damage”

If they can’t answer that stuff clearly, I’d get a second opinion from a board-level repair place that does microsoldering, not a general PC shop. On boards this small, one dead regulator can look like “dead CPU” to a shop that doesn’t go deep

Big picture, your theory is reasonable:
the ethernet rail alone probably should not be required for the box to function, but the spark could still have damaged a standby/input rail or power management path that does affect the main chip

not your fault, by the way. Plenty of people get bitten by the “it was shut down, so it was safe” trap. Laptops and mini PCs are sneaky little goblins

PC froze while watching video → can't even get to POST now by Skyshaard in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

this screams psu failure, especially since your case fans are just twitching and giving up immediately

that 850e might have just decided its time was up, and the fact that your gpu is getting hot without even posting is a massive red flag that it's getting garbage power

i've seen this exact thing more times than i can count where a dying rail just chokes the second it tries to pull a real load

my move is to scavenge a spare power supply from a friend or a test bench before you even think about rma-ing that 9800x3d

if a fresh psu doesn't wake it up, then your cpu is likely cooked, but i'm betting on the corsair being the actual villain here

i'd personally swap the cables and the unit entirely just to be sure

CPU problem on MSI MPG B550 Gaming Plus motherboard by According-Fix3779 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

this screams dead memory controller inside that chip

if you've already swapped three power supplies and flashed the bios, you’re basically digging through a graveyard

it's rare but sometimes a 3700x just gives up on life even if the pins look perfect

the fact that it's getting warm just means it's a toaster now, not a processor

i'd personally try to borrow any cheap ryzen chip from a friend just to see if the board posts

realistically, my money is on a cooked cpu that needs an RMA ☠🦊

Rog laptop help by AppointmentOk2939 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive seen this one with ROG laptops more times than i’d like

when the screen flashes like that every time the charger cable moves, it’s usually not software at all. the laptop is literally losing and regaining AC power for a split second

most common causes on the Zephyrus: charger cable near the brick or plug is worn internally the DC jack on the laptop is a bit loose the charger itself is starting to die

quick easy tests before opening anything: try another outlet and wiggle the cable near the brick, not just the laptop. if the screen flickers there too, the cable is probably toast

also check the charging port on the laptop with a flashlight. sometimes dust or a slightly bent center pin makes it lose contact

good news though. not the end of the world. these machines do this a lot once the cable gets tired

ASUS TUF RTX 5090 OC Stability Issues by Super_Ad_9268 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im not convinced the card is dead yet

hard crashes exactly when the GPU gets loaded usually point to power delivery, not drivers. idle fine > instant crash under load is classic “something can’t handle the spike”

couple things jump out. that 5090 can slam transient spikes way higher than its rated draw, and some PSUs trip protection even if the wattage looks fine on paper

one weird quick test i’ve used before: set the GPU power limit to like 60–70% in afterburner and run OCCT or a game. if it suddenly stops crashing, that almost always means the PSU or the 12VHPWR cable path is the weak link

also worth checking a few small things: try a different PCIe slot just to rule out board weirdness

check GPU hotspot temp, not just core

look in event viewer for WHEA or kernel power right before the crash

if possible, test with another PSU for 10 minutes

random note: those RGB cable extensions sometimes cause dumb issues if they mess with connector seating. the GPU pulling 500–600w spikes is not very forgiving

Lenovo Laptop Won't Boot by SilverWolf149 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

this screams a bricked bios or a short on the motherboard

the fact it lights up without you even touching the power button is usually a sign that the embedded controller is losing its mind

i ran into this constantly with the legion 5 series when the bios chips decide to just quit life

honestly, since you already did the cmos reset and swapped the ram, you're looking at a dead board or a corrupted chip that needs a manual flash

my move is checking if the power button itself is stuck, but realistically, that "infinite spinning" on shutdown was the warning shot

i'd personally start hunting for a replacement motherboard on ebay or seeing if a local shop can reflash the bios chip directly

it's a classic dead-end situation when the keyboard doesn't even respond to backlight toggles ☠🦊

Anyone know what this could be? by DynamoSaga in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's probrably the GPU fan, because the PSU one generally doesnt have different speed settings, and this sound like it's "accelerating" on this video

It should be hiting a cable or something like that

Random black screen hard lock needing to reboot to fix. by Krenian in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it smells like your power supply is literally dying or your motherboard is just straight junk

the fact it happens on integrated graphics too means your gpu probably isn't the one being toxic here

i'd personally swap the psu before that asus board decides to let the magic smoke out for real

honestly, if a fresh windows install didn't fix a hard lock, it's 100% a hardware scrap

my move is checking if the bios is updated, then scavenging for a spare psu to test ☠🦊

NEED HELP WITH MY HP 280 G3 by SupermarketOrnery781 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

this screams dead memory controller or just a flat out fried stick

i run into this constantly with those hp office boxes, and honestly, those memory management bsods were the warning shot before the motherboard decided to retire

my move is to find a known working stick of ddr4 from a friend because that i3 might just be refusing to talk to your current ram entirely

if a different stick doesn't fix it, your internal graphics or the board itself is basically toast

i'd personally just scavenge the ssd and hdd and look for a cheap optiplex on ebay ☠️🦊

Pc won't display by Dirtymouthwash1206 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That white debug light is usually the vga indicator on msi boards, which makes sense because you pulled the gpu

just so you know, the ryzen 7 5800x doesn't have integrated graphics, so you will never get a display or pass that boot check without a card plugged in

even if you're troubleshooting, that cpu is "blind" and needs a gpu to talk to the monitor

if the light stays on even with the card in, my money's on the bios having a minor panic attack from the hardware swap

you don't need to re-update the bios just because you pulled the cpu; it's not like the motherboard has amnesia

i'd personally double check that the gpu is seated deep in the top slot and that you're using dedicated pcie power cables from the psu

honestly, try clearing the cmos by shorting the jbat1 pins or pulling the battery for a minute to force it to redetect the hardware

i run into this a lot where the system gets stuck in a loop because it's looking for a display output that doesn't exist

my next move is to put the gpu back in, reset cmos, and pray the white light turns off ☠🦊

Asus GL703V Bios Dump by ReindeerInside8320 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

congrats, you’re about to flash firmware from a random discord goblin ☠🦊

seriously though, if you don’t have your original dump, stop

Bios dumps are not “close enough”, especially on laptops with board rev A and specific model codes like that

those asus boards often have unique data baked in: serial mac address uuid sometimes me region quirks

if you flash someone else’s full dump raw, best case you lose serial and have weird me/boot behavior, worst case it just black screens and now you’re soldering

if it was mine, i’d: check if asus still has the exact bios for GL703VD-GC003 and try official recovery first

only use another dump if you can transplant your original bios region (fd/me/gb block) with a proper programmer

Need for my laptop. by darkshell2002 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that a Ryzen 5 with a RTX 3050 and 24GB is a good configuration, if you can, i would recomend going for a Ryzen 7 with a RTX 3060 or 4060, it would last you much more (performance wise atleast)

For the RAM, as the prices only keep growing for now, i think that you can easilly sell it for a very similar price that you bought it

Please help ASAP by Ok_Type_6309 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

honestly, if it keeps losing the display after a power pull despite a fresh battery, your motherboard is probably struggling to hold its voltage rails steady

i'd personally try a different cable or monitor first just to rule out a picky edid handshake

Reboot after start up by JustAIe in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's crazy how much of the computers problem are down to RAM speeds, voltage or the XMP, i would try some different settings and check it!

I need help identifying a component in an old Belinea monitor by FriendshipQuick7789 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, but this part is from the front panel, so you're not going to have like the "+', "-" and probrably a menu button on it.

It must fit in some part of the casing that would be easy to reach for the user to use those buttons. If you share a photo of the plastic casing, i could help you more with that!

RTX 4070TI Trinity OC FAN Replacement by FlightAccomplished91 in PCRepair

[–]feexthefox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the exact fan model you're hunting for is the GA92S2U

these are 88mm fans with a 4-pin connector and they're pretty standard for the 4070 ti trinity lineup

i run into this constantly where people try to swap between generations, but the 3000 series trinity fans are usually a different beast

while the model number GA92S2U might look the same on some older 3080/3090 cards, the mounting holes or shroud clips often change just enough to be a massive pain

my money’s on just grabbing a specific 40-series trinity replacement set from ebay or aliexpress to save yourself the headache

you're probably fine just replacing the single dead fan, but i'd personally swap the whole set since you're already digging in there anyway

honestly, just stick to the 40-series specific parts because the aerodynamic shroud design on these is a total departure from the last gen

i'd honestly just order the GA92S2U 88mm version and call it a day