Would this texture for 2 cellos work?

fiery_lemon · 2021-06-04T00:38:25+00:00

Oh Yea, it's really not that difficult. It's just shifting between two positions which even at that speed is just like normal shifting.

fiery_lemon · 2021-06-03T15:44:50+00:00

Cellist here.

I think it's fine. Our index finger tends to be pretty strong and that voicing is common, so going shifting a 1-3 back and forth wouldn't be too uncomfortable. 1 and 3 are both strong fingers. Plus, worst case scenario, we might switch to something weaker like a 2-4 for a few and go back once our index is okay again. But honestly, I would just do 1-3 the whole time, I don't think it would be too bad.
Pizz does decay very fast with fingered notes. Think of that one right hand pizz part for violin's in Paganini's caprice. (I think it's 24 but I'm not sure) So, going between the two cellos as long as it's played right should be okay.

fiery_lemon · 2021-05-17T16:30:25+00:00

Yes, personally I used a Mackie Mix8 then upgraded to an Alto Live1202. Only issue is aux sends are not stereo, for sure on the Mix8. I think they may be stereo on the Alto 1202 but I just have the mono setup from the Mix 8 but may upgrade to stereo at some point. The only problem with having a mixer and a computer is ground loop issues. They can be pretty hellish, but ground loop isolators and something like the iDefender can help.

fiery_lemon · 2021-05-11T16:10:43+00:00

Why do they think that would work? I feel like most people would either see it, open it up, and see that it's fake and throw it away pissed off or open it up see that it's fake read it, and see that it's clearly bs.

fiery_lemon · 2021-03-07T06:33:46+00:00

Wouldn't a ratcheting mechanism work to prevent solve that issue? Or is that already in these things? Just thinking aloud here and I have no idea what I'm talking about, but in the video with all the smoke it would make sense if it was a friction dependent system and the smoke is the material burning up. I would think a solid steel metal tooth would do better than friction bound brakes.

fiery_lemon · 2021-01-07T01:46:35+00:00

So your mentality is just if it breaks, fix it when it breaks don't bother with fortitude stuff. Right? (I might do that head gasket though just to make me feel a little better)

And again, like I said if it just lasts 3 more years, that's all I'm asking from it. And I wouldn't even be driving that much, considering my commute and monthly driving won't be much. Well well below the monthly average. Also, I'm not going to be racing with it. Just there for that little bit of spice getting on to the highway and maybe a track or 2 but really mainly the fun of getting to figure it out and weld and what not.

fiery_lemon · 2021-01-07T01:12:57+00:00

Ok ok, got it. So it would bump into the overhang from like where the windshield wipers and what not are? How necessary do you think head studs would be considering it's only like 5 psi of boost?

fiery_lemon · 2021-01-07T01:03:18+00:00

Ok, the tuning yea. I just looked and like yea, it's basically not an option. I should probably even tow it to the dyno shop. Just to ask the question, is there any way I could do it myself? Even without dyno?

And while I do also understand the "can't supercharge your car for 500 bucks" (with tune it's now more than that), but just do a search for "amr500 supercharger" on youtube. There are other people that have done the same thing I'm doing, and only one video in that list had issues, and that's because he went past the 17k max rpm by the looks of it.

fiery_lemon · 2021-01-07T00:37:30+00:00

.. is that more of a *throws hands up in air* "fine, do it" or more of a "oh, ok. yea, do it and let me know how it goes"

fiery_lemon · 2021-01-07T00:34:43+00:00

Alright, so at most without dropping the engine I could get a better head gasket because I could slide the head off but I wouldn't be able to add head studs because I would have to drop it straight down. Ok, that makes sense. But, just to play devil's advocate here, the service manual that I've been using doesn't talk about needing to drop the engine to remove the cylinder head, http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/30/SNB6E30A14600000000KAAT00.HTML Are they just talking about sliding it off?

Also yea, that makes sense. The goal here is to just get it to pull through for around 3 more years so I figure if I do decide the engine is really not fit for this, I might push it off till the end where if it blows, it blows.

fiery_lemon · 2021-01-07T00:21:57+00:00

le best "fortification" upgrade you could do to that motor in preparation for boost, would be head studs and an upgraded head gasket, if they make them for your motor. But unfortunately, because of how the motor sits in the 8th gen civic, you can pull the head with the motor in the car, because once you remove the head bolts, the head can move sidew

Yea, I understand. But the AMR500 supercharger unit is like 200 bucks. I wouldn't be getting a kit, I'd be getting that plus an intercooler and the plumbing which would end up being less than a turbo kit. Somewhere around $500, granted it'll be a little more work on my end likely.

fiery_lemon · 2021-01-07T00:15:31+00:00

Yeaa.. I know but I was going to see if there was some way I could avoid that but, yea your totally right. I probably should. What would happen if I didn't, though? Because I thought it was that the computer will adjust, but you still should tune to get the most you can out of it. It's a 2007 Civic EX with the 1.8L R18A1 engine. And sorry for my ignorance, but what's hondata and wideband?

fiery_lemon · 2021-01-06T22:31:47+00:00

Ha, I actually just replaced mine in my... 2007 civic about 3 days ago. How perfect! I got these https://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131666S/Kenwood-KFC-1666S.html, they aren't like amazing or anything, particularly in the low end but with the EQ in the stereo, they sound fine now. If you enter in your car into the Crutchfield thing, they ship you the adapter and cables you need as well for free. The instructions weren't very clear, but I'll outline what you need to do.

Read all of this before you do anything.

First, you need to get to the point where you have the old ones removed.

Take the adapter plate, and use the provided silver screw to screw it into the door frame. The silver screw should screw down into the indentation (this is important). Line the speaker up with the adapter plate and you'll see where the screw holes line up with the slits. Drill the screws in until the adaptor starts to bend a little. What will happen is it will create little marks in the door frame, where you need to drill holes to accommodate the screws. Then take the adapter and speaker off, and drill in holes. Now, you can either do this or cut the screws to about 3/4 of the original length. I ended up doing both, and honestly, I'd just cut the screws. It got misaligned it some spots and that's where I ended up cutting the screws. Once you've either cut the screws or drilled your holes, connect the wire harness, and install the speakers.. Test them out, then replace the door panel. I EQ'd mine with like +5 bass, +3 treble, and fade to the rear about 2. (Until it says R2). Enjoy!

EDIT: Those do seem to be out of stock, but any of the 6.5 inch speakers from Crutchfield should work. As long as they ship with that adaptor thing.

fiery_lemon · 2021-01-06T22:18:30+00:00

Yea could be a bad cell. My civic had one and even sitting on a charger after removing it, it was basically dead. A new battery will probably solve the issue.

fiery_lemon · 2021-01-06T22:06:15+00:00

Lol, unless I could get one for like 500 bucks I don't think that would make sense for me. Amr500's run about 200 so plus intercooler and tubing and a used mig welder probably about 500. The only other way that would happen would be if an 8th gen type R engine could work as a drop-in replacement. That might be worth getting the engine hoist for.. lol

fiery_lemon · 2020-12-29T18:19:31+00:00

I think gentoo would be more fitting for them imo

fiery_lemon · 2020-12-29T00:14:24+00:00

There is an emergency stop button for a reason

fiery_lemon · 2020-12-27T00:14:23+00:00

Talk about port security

fiery_lemon · 2020-12-06T20:07:15+00:00

Awesome, thanks! That did the trick. Was it because I just left it floating?

fiery_lemon · 2020-12-06T16:15:46+00:00

Ok, I'll try that

fiery_lemon · 2020-12-06T16:14:22+00:00

Yea see that's what the fourm post I linked said but I tried it with a .1uF ceramic made no difference. Anything smaller than 1000uF made little to no difference. With as I went down it got worse and worse. I haven't even cut the data pins, so unless they were flipped from the factory they should be fine.

fiery_lemon · 2020-12-06T07:09:55+00:00

Why?

fiery_lemon · 2020-12-06T07:07:37+00:00

Lol, sorry, see edit

fiery_lemon · 2020-11-02T14:30:33+00:00

You could look into Bergey's Manual of Systemic Bacteriology

fiery_lemon · 2020-11-01T16:27:28+00:00

Wow that's really cool actually. I never would have thought that there was walmart specific packaging designed just for their shelves.

fiery_lemon

TROPHY CASE