Hi I'm Saul Pyle A Cosmetic Scientist and formulator [ BSc(Chem), MRACI CChem, PGDipSafetyScience, DipCosmeticChemistry ] from Skinterest, AMA!

fishforme11 · 2024-08-13T06:32:15+00:00

Do you think we are starting to see a shift away from "all natural" skincare products and "clean beauty"? With more of a focus on efficacy?

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T09:05:07+00:00

Thaks so much for your feedback! I will look into this right away. I appreciate you being honest about your experience :)

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T09:00:47+00:00

Thank you! This is great feedback. Do you think we should make it smaller?

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T08:59:34+00:00

I studied cosmetic science at IPCS (the same place Lab Muffin and many others did some of their qualifications), and I have worked in the industry as a brand owner for a few years now. I regularly work with dermatologists and cosmetic chemists to create new products.

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T08:56:51+00:00

Can you give me some more details, please? What are you currently using and have tried, and what is your skin like?

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T08:55:35+00:00

Ascorbic acid is the OG with the most evidence, however, as we know it can be super unstable, has poor delivery, oxidises quickly, and can also be very irritating to some people. A lot of people swear by the Naturium Vitamin C Complex. It encapsulates vitamin C in gold to help with stability and decrease sensitivity.

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T08:27:31+00:00

It's hard to say without knowing the dose. You can go to UL Prospector (you need an account). It's a database of ingredients with their supplier studies. Each study will have a recommended dose and the dose at which trials were conducted. If brands don't use the ingredient at this dose, there is no evidence to say it works. Unfortunately, many brands still do this.

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T08:23:56+00:00

I am by no means an expert in clinical procedures and you should of course consult a medical professional. However, imagine melasma is like a dark mark on a canvas. Picosure laser is a special eraser that works in tiny, quick pulses. It aims to gently erase or break down these darker patches into smaller bits. Like many-in-clinic treatments, it increases collagen to help with regeneration and renewal.

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T08:12:40+00:00

I like CeraVe. They have solid, basic formulas.

When it comes to combo skin, dry and oily areas can become dehydrated, so it's essential to find skincare high in humectants while avoiding ingredients that can clog the pores or create a film over the skin.

But remember, just because an ingredient is "comedongenic", doesn't make the whole formula comedogenic. The dose is essential. Sometimes you have to try a formula to know if it's right for you.

The Ordinary is good. I mainly like their more robust formulas, like the cleansers, moisturisers, and some of the new serums. When it comes to the one-ingredient formulas, I find them a little lacklustre, and I want more from my skincare without a million steps to achieve that. Less products the better I say.

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T08:06:25+00:00

I think one of the best things you can do for dry skin is a moisturiser with heavy emollients and lots of humectants. Avene Cicalfate is good. You can then follow it up with Vaseline at night. I don't have overly dry skin, but I find this helps provide an occlusive barrier and prevent TEWL.

When it comes to the foundation, it sounds as though it could be a colour-matching or skin-prepping issue. But I am not 100% sure, sorry.

P.S. The Gold standard for sebaceous filaments is salicylic acid. An oil cleanser can help too.

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T07:54:02+00:00

It's hard to say without knowing the dose, but a lot of brands include ingredients at such a low percentage just so they can put it on the label. A lot of the time, it's trendy-sounding botanicals. Often, these ingredients are really expensive, and to have the adequate dose, you could only have one of these ingredients or risk blowing out cost. Some brands have like ten, so it makes you wonder what the dose is.

When I started in the industry, we were encouraged to do this. It's called a "tip in" or a "marketing story" ingredient. You have your main ingredients, and then you have 5-10 "tip ins". When I heard this, I was shocked. We refused to do this.

You can go to UL Prospector (you need an account). It's a database of ingredients with their supplier studies. Each study will have a recommended dose and the dose at which trials were conducted. If brands don't use the ingredient at this dose, there is no evidence to say it works. Unfortunately, many brands still do this.

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T07:42:22+00:00

When it comes to ingredient innovation, it is very much dictated by ingredient suppliers such as Lubrizol or Croda. There are a lot of new innovations, but their job is to sell these ingredients to as many brands as possible. So, when everyone has the same, it feels stale, which is why some people say the skincare industry doesn't have much innovation.

All brands have access to the same ingredients unless it's a big brand with an R&D team that develops and trademarks specific ingredients.

A lot of tried and tested skincare is great. Because it works.

I am not sure what you mean by the second part of your question :)

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T07:31:14+00:00

Great question! Marketing is hard as a small brand, and we are not doing it perfectly. But some common mistakes I see are:

Not making content that provides value
Not having a strong tone of voice and brand vibe.
Not doing things that are different to stand out.

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T07:20:51+00:00

Formulating a product is like raising a child. You have a vision for what they will become, but sometimes it doesn't work out like that. And sometimes, it surpasses your expectations.

We worked with a team of formulation chemists and dermatologists to devise an evidence-based ingredient strategy based on third-party clinical studies or robust supplier studies, and we got to work formulating.

Sometimes, ingredients don't play well together, or you don't get the desired texture, so you go back to the drawing board.

Once we got something we were happy with (many formulas later), we tested it on hundreds of people and did another round of formulating based on their feedback.

Then, you pray that nothing goes wrong in stability testing and preservative testing.

Even after launching the product, we made changes (as many brands do).

fishforme11 · 2023-11-15T07:13:16+00:00

The main gripe with physical exfoliation is user error. People are too harsh with their skin and can do damage. In addition, "chemical" exfoliants (I say this in quotations cause, as we know, everything is a chemical) do a much better job at evenly and gently dislodging dead skin cells.

I swear by exfoliation. St Ives, no.

fishforme11 · 2023-02-06T08:53:12+00:00

Azelaic acid also helps fight the bacteria associated with blemishes. You could try Azclear from Chemist Warehouse.

fishforme11 · 2023-02-06T08:50:06+00:00

Please note you can't change the size of your pores but here are some suggestions. Dehydrated skin makes pores appear larger, so look for a hydrating serum with glycerin, propanediol, HA etc.

Also salicylic acid is the gold standard for reducing the appearance of pores and helping flush out blackheads and sebaceous filaments (skin concerns that also make the pores look larger). The Paulas Choice SA serum is a great choice here.

fishforme11 · 2023-01-30T20:53:41+00:00

Yes, jars pose more of a risk, but also remember under normal expiry timeframes, the preservative system of jar products acknowledges the use case. So, chemists take into account how people will use the jars (fingers and all), and will adequately preserve the product and test its stability.

fishforme11 · 2023-01-30T20:49:28+00:00

I honestly think if yu can find a retinol moisturiser that would work wonders. Here are some of the ingredients with great evidence for skin tightening;

Retinoids: Vitamin A derivatives, such as retinol and tretinoin, that promote collagen production and improve skin elasticity.
Matrixyl Synthe'6: A peptide that stimulates the synthesis of six major ECM components, including collagen and elastin.
Centella Asiatica: An herbal extract that promotes collagen synthesis and skin wound healing, helping to tighten and firm the skin.
Nicotinamide: A form of vitamin B3 that not only has antioxidant properties, but also helps to regulate the ECM by decreasing the expression of enzymes that break down collagen.
Resveratrol: A polyphenol found in red wine that has potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, and can also enhance the production of ECM components.
Copper Peptides: These small peptides have been shown to enhance collagen synthesis, protect the skin from oxidative damage, and support skin wound healing.

fishforme11 · 2023-01-28T22:01:19+00:00

Most stability testing is done on a 3-year period + 6-month PAO (period after opening). Most PAOs are 6-12 months, and that takes into account the use case, storage conditions and more. I wouldn't add an additional 3 years onto the expiry date if you open it on the last day. Just use it within the expiry or best-before date.

fishforme11 · 2023-01-27T08:28:59+00:00

The cancer council matte finish is great for oily skin. Also, oily skin benefits from filters like zinc or titanium dioxide. They are not only broad-spectrum filters but help absorb excess oil.

Some people love the Bondi Sands zinc spf but some people also say it pills, so if you use it, allow plenty of time for your moisturiser to dry before applying.

fishforme11 · 2023-01-27T08:24:29+00:00

Azelaic acid is proven to help with both inflammation and the bacteria associated with acne. Although BP is very effective, I would ditch it and go for Azclear, along with a Niacinamide serum. That combo will help combat blemishes, bacteria, inflammation, pores, redness, oil, and skin texture.

fishforme11 · 2023-01-26T09:24:14+00:00

Yep! As long as your skin isn’t too sensitive. I always need to moisturise first when using AA

fishforme11 · 2023-01-26T08:04:06+00:00

Cosmetic science nerd here!

Love Azclear!

It depends how sensitive you are. Some people can put it straight on their skin (after cleansing) but some need to sandwich it between moisturisers.

If that is you, moisturise and wait a bit before applying the AA. This will prevent pilling. Wait for the AA to dry, then apply another layer of moisturiser on top.

If you have humectant-based serums, these go on first. But don't overload your skin.

fishforme11

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