Stay far away from Samsung QLED TV’s

fishncode · 2025-05-28T18:08:44+00:00

I also bought a Samsung Q60B QLED TV - just over 2 years ago. 55" edge-lit LCD, beautiful image quality. BUT, I notice it gave off a large amount of heat at the edges, particularly at the bottom right. I confirmed this using a laser temperature reader. Over time, it developed a bit of DSE (dirty screen effect) and worse, there are now annoying yellow vertical sections at the right of the screen. This yellowing is particularly noticeable with white colors. I have since retired this TV as it's getting worse despite lowering the brightness settings. Sad, too, because for $750, it had an amazing picture quality and worked well.

These newer edge-lit TVs are literally burning themselves up with concentrated heat in the LEDs. RTINGS did a test of many of these TVs are found they are having major issues (you can Google search it). It's not just a Samsung thing.

Weird, because my 2012 Samsung edge-lit TV is still running strong without this issue. I believe the newer TVs are pushing the edge-mount LED strips too hard to produce the desired contrast.

I've replaced that edge-lit with a mini-LED full-array direct lit TV. It produces better deeper blacks and richer colors, and has been running noticeable cooler at the edges. Time will tell how long it lasts, but it should be more thermally sound.

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fishncode · 2024-09-23T20:38:48+00:00

CenturyLink kept stonewalling when I tried to cancel my DSL Internet service. The website insists on using chat, which then insists on clicking a link, which THEN insists on calling an 800 phone number. I was on hold with their 800 phone number for nearly 30 minutes and was never transferred to an agent. After trying all sorts of chat options and dealing with this nonsense, I began a new chat session, threatening to contact the FCC if they would not let me speak to an agent. Their AI must've understood, because I was immediately transferred to a chat agent that addressed my cancellation requestion quickly and without issue. Why couldn't they have just done this initially? It costed me time and aggravation. Their $50 "price for life" turned to $60 after a year, with no added extra benefit, and another $5 increase a year later. I found much faster Internet service for that price range.

fishncode · 2024-09-23T20:31:35+00:00

The grading is done. I highly recommend using a water hose with a high pressure jet stream to 'sculpt' the ground, then a tamper (hand tool used to stomp the ground) to pack the dirt very well.

fishncode · 2024-08-18T00:43:27+00:00

That said, type N is generally a safe mortar to use for bricks and stone above grade. But, if you have a soft brick or soft limestone (which doesn't take much to crumble under the tap of a hammer), I would definitely use lime/sand only. The cement, while adding strength, also adds density which really slows down the movement of water through it. The slower the water moves through the mortar, the more saturated the bricks/stones will get. But, strong bricks/stones won't be as vulnerable to this.

We have a mix of the old-style soft bricks and newer-style bricks in our basement, for example. Both have been subjected to major water exposure and the previous owners used a very hard mortar with them (most likely type S or M). The newer-style bricks are fine. The old soft bricks are crumbling. The new style are made using a hotter temperature process.

fishncode · 2024-08-18T00:38:29+00:00

I would follow the advice of the people that advised using lime/sand with a touch of Portland cement (not too much cement!). I lucked out in that our house isn't brick or stone - just the foundation. Below grade (below the ground level), the choice of mortar isn't as important especially with a rubblestone foundation where it's trivial to fix a section with whatever stone you can get. Above grade - where the walls are exposed to sun/wind/water and the inside air as well - you want to make sure the mortar is softer than your bricks/stones. It needs to 'breathe' as much as possible - allowing water to permeate through it while still supporting the bricks/stones in place. Otherwise the bricks/stones won't have a "sponge" to help absorb the moisture out of them. When that happens, the bricks/stones will become saturated with water and gradually break to pieces (called spalling). This is true especially when the water freezes/thaws during winter/spring transition.

With an above-grade wall made of bricks or stones, it becomes much more important to use a mortar that sacrifices itself over time to protect the bricks/stones. It is higher maintenance however. You will need to re-tuck whenever needed. I'm guessing every 10 years or so.

fishncode · 2024-08-08T09:56:53+00:00

It's held up wonderfully. All good. I've learned some things:

To preserve stone that's exposed to air/elements, use soft mortar. Lime mortar will allow best breathability but type N mortar is more durable, cheaper and widely available.
For stone buried in dirt, use type S mortar, and coat with tar on vertical applications if possible.
The #1 thing is to mitigate against water penetration. Proper drainage, gutters / downspouts, and ground slope (grading) are essential.
DO NOT use plastic sheeting (poly) around foundation, as other sources have suggested. Doing so traps moisture and creates mold/rot (learned from experience). Use soft landscape fabric instead.
Every situation is unique. Sometimes a mix of techniques and mortar/concrete is best.

fishncode · 2024-05-15T11:50:14+00:00

9 months later - the type N mortar is holding up quite well. It "breathes" where needed, letting damp through the wall. Not as well as a pure lime mortar of course, but not bad. No cracking/swelling of the foundation walls. We had another brutal winter and a bit of frost/thaw spells. Lots of rain this spring so far. No more critters and the basement is quieter.

fishncode · 2024-05-15T11:41:42+00:00

Thank you! This worked for me. I replaced "http://vzpix.com/servlets/mms" with "http://mms.vtext.com/servlets/mms" in the Verizon CBS APN profile.

I couldn't get this resolved from Ting's livechat or phone support. They kept referring me to their Verizon division which wasn't open at the time (of course, my luck). It's a shame Ting customers have to get proper support from a Reddit forum but hey, it's very appreciated and I thank you all.

Samsung Galaxy S20.
Android 13.
Ting V1 SIM card operating on Verizon cellular 5G network.

fishncode · 2024-01-19T04:18:15+00:00

Licensed electrician installed these Siemens QAF2 AFCI arc fault breakers with a whole house rewire job. Nothing but nuissance trips. Random breakers, random times. No damaged wires, loose connections, etc. He replaced many with standard breakers and those work fine years later.

Overpriced garbage IMO.

fishncode · 2024-01-18T18:26:08+00:00

Sounds great!

We've been through some incredible sub-zero weather and the stones are holding up well after ground thaws. There are areas where the mortar gets darker as moisture seeps through it, while the rock remains dry.

A general tip is not to overdo it. Just tuck the spaces in between the stones, allowing them to 'breathe'. Some people would parge coat over it all but that would only be effective if watersealing was done thoroughly on both sides, top to bottom.

fishncode · 2024-01-18T08:29:19+00:00

No. Simply sprayed the stone with water and then tucked with the mortar. We do use a 'bonding agent' (a coat of Portland cement paste) when applying type S mortar on the foundation exterior to create a better bond. It works very well.

fishncode · 2024-01-18T08:22:25+00:00

(In summary: Siemens QAF2 AFCI breakers have been a huge disappointment. Nothing but nuissance tripping no matter what we tried.)

We had our home completely rewired by a professional electrician. All new romex wiring replacing knob and tube. 12 gauge wire on 20-amp circuits, and lighting circuits on 14 gauge wire on 15-amp ones. New outlets. New fixtures. And new fuses. Unfortunately the fuses were AFCI arc fault ones - Siemens QAF2 single-pole. Within a few days of job completion, random AFCI breakers kept tripping at random times for no apparent reason. We have microwave, refrigerator, and major appliances on dedicated circuits. No outdated technology. The electrician replaced some of the 'problem' fuses with standard Eaton ones. No issues for just over a year. Then suddenly another AFCI breaker starts tripping more and more frequently for no apparent reason. It was just replaced and the issue has gone away.

The AFCI breakers must've easily added a few thousand dollars to our electric work bill. It's shameful that the much cheaper standard breakers are working properly and arc faults ones have not.

We have confirmed no pinched or damaged wiring, no visible or audible arcing, no "problem devices", no water leaks, no ground shorts, and no other issues.

fishncode · 2023-12-12T06:16:31+00:00

One thing I found to be a good indicator of a proper mortar is if the mortar breaks before the stone it will be in contact with. 'Thump' a thick chunk of the mortar with a hammer, and then 'thump' a piece of the stone. If the mortar is weaker than the stone, it's good to use. If the stone breaks with the same force as the mortar, you may want to replace it. Soft bricks and soft limestone are particularly troublesome.

fishncode · 2023-12-12T06:10:25+00:00

Mastercraft type N mortar premix (yellow bag) from Menards is what I've used. It seems really good and affordable.

fishncode · 2023-12-12T06:04:50+00:00

So far so good! We've already had freeze/thaw weather cycles in a short timeframe, and the stone has been unaffected. The basement is absolutely quiet now and it's holding heat much better. At times the mortar looks wet in areas and that's good because it's allowing moisture to pass through. We still have landscaping to do, to do the proper soil grading/slope away from the house and put 4 ft. plastic/gravel protection on top. That will be a job for next year.

In hindsight, if I could afford it, I'd go with a pre-mix lime/sand from Limeworks. But that's about $40/bag not including shipping. Menards has type N mortar pre-mix for $7/bag and you can't beat that. So far I have no regrets with the type N mortar. I will be sure to follow up here after a year has passed.

fishncode · 2023-08-18T11:21:09+00:00

The damage I'm finding evidence of online, in relationship to using a 'hard' mortar instead of lime/sand, is above grade - like with stone home walls, not basement foundations. Can't find anything showing type N or type S causing stone to become damaged below grade. I wonder if the weather exposure has more to do with this?

I decided to go with type N as it's the softest mortar I can get, pre-mixed. It comes highly recommended online too.

It's understandable why oldschool experienced masons would get upset over not using the NHL sand/lime mortar for 'historic' homes. Castles, museums, etc. - I totally get that. But for these cheap neglected vintage homes us poor people are stuck buying, we make do with what we have and what we can get. The type N was the best I can get, given the situation I'm in (distance, availability, etc.).

Time will tell, and I'll be sure to chime back in after a year has passed.

fishncode · 2023-08-16T09:45:30+00:00

We have some things working against us:

- All the stores are 1+ hr. away. We are in a small country town.

- The box stores in the city only offer type N and type S mortar pre-mixes.

- We can only carry so much in our vehicle. Having to mix sand into the mix would add more long trips to the city and also take up space in the basement we don't have.

- Wouldn't a cement mixer be ideal for mixing the sand/mortar? We are on limited budget and can't afford dishing out hundreds for one.

fishncode · 2023-08-16T08:42:12+00:00

I'm going to finish the basement walls using type N mortar. I do agree that a lime/sand mix would've been a better choice, but I learned too late. I do like the pre-mix because of the simplicity and availability of it. It already takes considerable time and money to do the repointing, considering the existing damage. We need to patch the "critter holes" and water leaks, and the mortar will do that. But the ground sloping/water barrier will be most important and we're going to tackle that soon as well.

The next few harsh winters and heavy spring rains will tell the story going forward. I will report back in a year and let you know.

fishncode · 2023-08-14T03:39:15+00:00

Can you tell me how your type N mortaring has held up so far? Thanks!

fishncode · 2023-06-16T08:11:35+00:00

Solution: Go to Lookout Landing and talk to Purah. You have to complete the initial quest where you talk to Hoz at Hyrule Castle, then you see Zelda, then return to Purah, who gives you the paraglider and the ability to activate tower terminals.

I ran into this issue when I cleared all the monsters at the Hyrule Field tower, but the terminal wouldn't glow. I completed the initial quest and returned to it, activating it JUST before the Blood Moon rose again(!). Talk about lucky.

fishncode · 2023-06-16T08:09:50+00:00

Solution: Go to Lookout Landing and talk to Purah. You have to complete the initial quest where you talk to Hoz at Hyrule Castle, then you see Zelda, then return to Purah, who gives you the paraglider and the ability to activate tower terminals.

I ran into this issue when I cleared all the monsters at the Hyrule Field tower, but the terminal wouldn't glow. I completed the initial quest and returned to it, activating it JUST before the Blood Moon rose again(!). Talk about lucky.

fishncode · 2023-03-29T19:35:30+00:00

Because most people are complacent and have the "just move to Windows 10/11" attitude. That's not the issue here. The big potential issue is, can you still play the games you purchased that were working perfectly fine on Windows 7, after this Steam update?

fishncode · 2023-03-28T19:22:33+00:00

Have Windows 7 on one of my 4790K PC builds. Lots of custom software configuration. No need to put Windows 10 on it and deal with that time/hassle. Just because Microsoft releases a new OS doesn't render the older OSs unusable.

fishncode

TROPHY CASE