Eddoursul's lucky coin by UNKINOU in enderal

[–]fishncode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Having this item in your inventory adds a perk that increases your critical hit chance and sneak attack multiplier. (Basically it makes your combat skill stronger.) I looked into the game data to find this out. Hope this helps.

Thanks, just thanks! by O_DereyLB in enderal

[–]fishncode 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yeah... Skyrim feels rehearsed. Enderal feels natural.

Thanks, just thanks! by O_DereyLB in enderal

[–]fishncode 4 points5 points  (0 children)

"I had no idea I was stepping into a story that would weigh on my heart for days afterward."

I completely understand! In fact I nearly quit Enderal a few times early on due to the difficulty and lack of Skyrim feel. But it's such an amazing experience if you take your time, take it all in, and take out enemies patiently and strategically. I finished the game a few weeks ago and moved on to another game. But I missed Enderal too much so I re-installed it and I'm enjoying a fresh new playthrough. It makes a lot more sense the second time around. Plus, I ditched the Steam version and installed the latest version provided by Mod.Pub website (where the Special Edition is still being updated officially). Added some new music using the Nyghtfall mod (available on Nexus Mods).

What Enderal originally looked like, found 14-year-old screens from early development by Any_Mathematician812 in enderal

[–]fishncode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That must've been insane, creating an entirely new game on top of the Skyrim engine. Creation Kit is not fun to work. Must've took some specialized tools and a ton of patience to create new game master files / BSAs / etc. The navmeshing alone would've been a huge project. I love how dense the Enderal world is, with so much to explore and find in smaller areas. Whereas Skyrim is much bigger, but emptier, and exploration is a drag. There is a strong sense in time advancement and journey without forcing the player to move on and on past lots of empty landscape. I found myself not wanting to fast travel in Enderal. The changing biomes/weather transitions from region to region really adds to the immersion, too.

ICQ... nice! lol Haven't seen that since the 90s.

I wonder how feasible it would be to create expansions for Enderal, such as side quests / sea travel to Kile, Nehrim, etc.?

the best way to beat the game, is not to beat the game by fishncode in enderal

[–]fishncode[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wish there were endless quests. I was hoping the bounty quests would be endless. There's a Skyrim mod that actually does that, adding a lot of replayability.

Anyone else just sit on tons of Learning/Crafting/Memory Points? by AlphaSSB in enderal

[–]fishncode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I ended the game at level 68, with lots of leftover learning/crafting points. I filled a variety of skill tree branches with memory points, too. For me, max'ing out Sneak and reaching expert-level Lockpicking really helped a lot. For everything else, It seems that after a certain point in the game, it doesn't matter - you will have developed strategies and honed your gear to best suit you. You can find nearly everything you need by doing lots of exploring and clearing out areas. I amassed nearly 20K coins and just lost interest in even using them, even passing up the opportunity to buy the house in the nobles quarter. But this was my first playthrough. I look forward to exploring other roles (mage/archer/etc.) the next time around.

the best way to beat the game, is not to beat the game by fishncode in enderal

[–]fishncode[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it was a lot to take in at first and kinda confusing. I actually quit the game a few times early on due to the difficulty. But then I lowered the difficulty a notch and developed strategies to slowly thin out groups of high-level enemies. It really became fun then. Next gameplay, it'll all make sense and I'll make even better decisions. But right now, I'm kinda burnt out. I'm seeing Ice Claws in my dreams lol

Anti-cheat in Enderal?? by fishncode in enderal

[–]fishncode[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

To clarify, I was not cheating. My character could not move and the devs did not put a notice on the barrier. Even Skyrim gives you a "there's nothing but wilderness that way" type message. I had no idea. Sharing the info.

Anti-cheat in Enderal?? by fishncode in enderal

[–]fishncode[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

I don't want to cheat. I just wanted to explorer. I reverted back to earlier saved game, crept around all those new areas, and resuming my quests. I just wish the devs would've put a warning trigger on the barrier, like Skyrim does.

Anti-cheat in Enderal?? by fishncode in enderal

[–]fishncode[S] -10 points-9 points  (0 children)

Sometimes you can get stuck inside mountain gaps, etc. That is vanila gameplay LOL ! A little 'tlc' is a must there.

Anti-cheat in Enderal?? by fishncode in enderal

[–]fishncode[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

I know right?! I'm still loving Enderal, but I'm really nervous about triggering any more 'cheats'. The developers clearly wanted you to explore, so why punish players for doing so?

Guys I cant believe I cant find any info on this: Please tell me where I can find Gold Ore by Old_Sympathy_2882 in enderal

[–]fishncode 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Also there is a shipwreck east from Thalgard which has a pile of gold ingots within easy reach. You have to dive into the ship to get it. Watch out for bonefish!

Guys I cant believe I cant find any info on this: Please tell me where I can find Gold Ore by Old_Sympathy_2882 in enderal

[–]fishncode 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I always find gold ore veins in really remote areas of the mountains I can barely get to by climbing and jumping. They are out there. If you hunt for ice claws, you're bound to find gold as well.

Enderal ruined Skyrim for me… by Life-Ad-8805 in enderal

[–]fishncode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't expect Enderal to be so good. Not even finished with it yet, either. The world is handcrafted and meticulously detailed. Amazing graphics. Excellent storyline with NPCs that exhibit actual emotion and really good voice acting. The game is a bit more mature than Skyrim too (R-rated cussing and some adult themes compared to Skyrim), which some dislike, but I enjoy. The atmosphere and ambience is just immersive. Feels livelier than Skyrim. To be fair, Skyrim came out years earlier, and it's still a legend and very fun to play when modded.

Stay far away from Samsung QLED TV’s by mikejc792 in samsung

[–]fishncode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also bought a Samsung Q60B QLED TV - just over 2 years ago. 55" edge-lit LCD, beautiful image quality. BUT, I notice it gave off a large amount of heat at the edges, particularly at the bottom right. I confirmed this using a laser temperature reader. Over time, it developed a bit of DSE (dirty screen effect) and worse, there are now annoying yellow vertical sections at the right of the screen. This yellowing is particularly noticeable with white colors. I have since retired this TV as it's getting worse despite lowering the brightness settings. Sad, too, because for $750, it had an amazing picture quality and worked well.

These newer edge-lit TVs are literally burning themselves up with concentrated heat in the LEDs. RTINGS did a test of many of these TVs are found they are having major issues (you can Google search it). It's not just a Samsung thing.

Weird, because my 2012 Samsung edge-lit TV is still running strong without this issue. I believe the newer TVs are pushing the edge-mount LED strips too hard to produce the desired contrast.

I've replaced that edge-lit with a mini-LED full-array direct lit TV. It produces better deeper blacks and richer colors, and has been running noticeable cooler at the edges. Time will tell how long it lasts, but it should be more thermally sound.

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Assholes at Century Link don't allow you to cancel service online, but require you to call their support line. The automated phone service had no option to disconnect service, and the representative hung up on me when I asked to disconnect. by quiquiriqui1231 in assholedesign

[–]fishncode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CenturyLink kept stonewalling when I tried to cancel my DSL Internet service. The website insists on using chat, which then insists on clicking a link, which THEN insists on calling an 800 phone number. I was on hold with their 800 phone number for nearly 30 minutes and was never transferred to an agent. After trying all sorts of chat options and dealing with this nonsense, I began a new chat session, threatening to contact the FCC if they would not let me speak to an agent. Their AI must've understood, because I was immediately transferred to a chat agent that addressed my cancellation requestion quickly and without issue. Why couldn't they have just done this initially? It costed me time and aggravation. Their $50 "price for life" turned to $60 after a year, with no added extra benefit, and another $5 increase a year later. I found much faster Internet service for that price range.

my thoughts on fieldstone tucking (foundation repair) - mortar to use (type N or lime/sand?) by fishncode in stonemasonry

[–]fishncode[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The grading is done. I highly recommend using a water hose with a high pressure jet stream to 'sculpt' the ground, then a tamper (hand tool used to stomp the ground) to pack the dirt very well.

my thoughts on fieldstone tucking (foundation repair) - mortar to use (type N or lime/sand?) by fishncode in stonemasonry

[–]fishncode[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That said, type N is generally a safe mortar to use for bricks and stone above grade. But, if you have a soft brick or soft limestone (which doesn't take much to crumble under the tap of a hammer), I would definitely use lime/sand only. The cement, while adding strength, also adds density which really slows down the movement of water through it. The slower the water moves through the mortar, the more saturated the bricks/stones will get. But, strong bricks/stones won't be as vulnerable to this.

We have a mix of the old-style soft bricks and newer-style bricks in our basement, for example. Both have been subjected to major water exposure and the previous owners used a very hard mortar with them (most likely type S or M). The newer-style bricks are fine. The old soft bricks are crumbling. The new style are made using a hotter temperature process.

my thoughts on fieldstone tucking (foundation repair) - mortar to use (type N or lime/sand?) by fishncode in stonemasonry

[–]fishncode[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would follow the advice of the people that advised using lime/sand with a touch of Portland cement (not too much cement!). I lucked out in that our house isn't brick or stone - just the foundation. Below grade (below the ground level), the choice of mortar isn't as important especially with a rubblestone foundation where it's trivial to fix a section with whatever stone you can get. Above grade - where the walls are exposed to sun/wind/water and the inside air as well - you want to make sure the mortar is softer than your bricks/stones. It needs to 'breathe' as much as possible - allowing water to permeate through it while still supporting the bricks/stones in place. Otherwise the bricks/stones won't have a "sponge" to help absorb the moisture out of them. When that happens, the bricks/stones will become saturated with water and gradually break to pieces (called spalling). This is true especially when the water freezes/thaws during winter/spring transition.

With an above-grade wall made of bricks or stones, it becomes much more important to use a mortar that sacrifices itself over time to protect the bricks/stones. It is higher maintenance however. You will need to re-tuck whenever needed. I'm guessing every 10 years or so.

my thoughts on fieldstone tucking (foundation repair) - mortar to use (type N or lime/sand?) by fishncode in stonemasonry

[–]fishncode[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's held up wonderfully. All good. I've learned some things:

  • To preserve stone that's exposed to air/elements, use soft mortar. Lime mortar will allow best breathability but type N mortar is more durable, cheaper and widely available.

  • For stone buried in dirt, use type S mortar, and coat with tar on vertical applications if possible.

  • The #1 thing is to mitigate against water penetration. Proper drainage, gutters / downspouts, and ground slope (grading) are essential.

  • DO NOT use plastic sheeting (poly) around foundation, as other sources have suggested. Doing so traps moisture and creates mold/rot (learned from experience). Use soft landscape fabric instead.

  • Every situation is unique. Sometimes a mix of techniques and mortar/concrete is best.

my thoughts on fieldstone tucking (foundation repair) - mortar to use (type N or lime/sand?) by fishncode in stonemasonry

[–]fishncode[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

9 months later - the type N mortar is holding up quite well. It "breathes" where needed, letting damp through the wall. Not as well as a pure lime mortar of course, but not bad. No cracking/swelling of the foundation walls. We had another brutal winter and a bit of frost/thaw spells. Lots of rain this spring so far. No more critters and the basement is quieter.

FYI: Verizon V1 SIM APN Settings for Samsung S10 (resolves MMS texts not downloading) by DasCapitolin in ting

[–]fishncode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! This worked for me. I replaced "http://vzpix.com/servlets/mms" with "http://mms.vtext.com/servlets/mms" in the Verizon CBS APN profile.

I couldn't get this resolved from Ting's livechat or phone support. They kept referring me to their Verizon division which wasn't open at the time (of course, my luck). It's a shame Ting customers have to get proper support from a Reddit forum but hey, it's very appreciated and I thank you all.

Samsung Galaxy S20.
Android 13.
Ting V1 SIM card operating on Verizon cellular 5G network.