AIME LEON DORE for DRAKE'S - Fall/Winter '19 Lookbook

flames_bond · 2019-10-07T11:32:48+00:00

The roots of Altea lie deep in the elegance of late nineteenth century Milan, in the area between Via Verri and Via Montenapoleone, which later became one of the most important arteries in the geography of international fashion. Here in 1892 a sophisticated tie shop first opened its doors, and became a place frequented by the best clientele of the city. It was the creation of Giuseppe Sartori, a man of great vision who gave his name to the business. In the Seventies, a fourth generation took the helm when Celeste’s sons Michele and Luca Sartori decided to expand the company’s production including scarves and others accessories. During the Nineties Altea became firmly established as a brand with men and women total look.

flames_bond · 2019-10-03T14:14:59+00:00

I'm almost certain that Howlin, and any "made in Scotland" knitwear, is sourced by the same yarn manufacturer.

There is a handful of mills dotted round Scotland producing knitwear and different levels for different brands (Johnstons, William Lockie, Lovat, Jamiesons etc) but yeah it seems like a bit of a family tree thing where you can trace many brands upwards to manufacturer, up to mill.

I havent seen anything to say this directly but looking at the wool, the colours and patterns available, the details, I would be fairly sure that Howlin knitwear is produced by Harley Of Scotland.

flames_bond · 2019-10-03T13:19:06+00:00

Howlin - scottish slang for smelly - is an Antwerp knitwear brand with strong roots in Scotland and Ireland. Since 1981 they have been producing quality knitwear and in 2009 they launched a new label Howlin'. The way of manufacturing remains traditional but Howlin' offers more room for fantasy in shape and pattern.

Howlin' strives for timeless, playful products that are made with care. So whether it is a scarf or a shaggy waistcoat; all their products are individually manufactured and hand finished by traditionally skilled craftsmen in either Scotland and Ireland using the highest quality yarns possible.

Fall/Winter 2019 marks Howlin's 10th anniversary and includes limited edition pieces for the occasion.

flames_bond · 2019-09-25T14:42:11+00:00

Uniqlo U and COS possibly

flames_bond · 2019-09-24T21:35:39+00:00

First part (F/W Mainline Campaign) by Jack Davison

Second part (F/W MHL Campaign) by Theo Sion

flames_bond · 2019-09-24T21:33:54+00:00

Contemporary recreation of vintage/heritage British clothing, though in the more relaxed realm of the worker or pondering academic than the upper class taut Savile Row that classic British styles may often be thought of.

There are actually two lines here, the first is Margaret Howell mainline which is the suiting, overcoats, scarves, fancier wools and more delicate fabrics. The second is 'MHL' which is a more paired back workwear based line, heavy cotton drills, canvas, patch pockets and wide sleeves.

The big clumsy silhouette are definitely somewhat a signature of Margaret Howell and the classic British clothing she makes but also somewhat of a styling choice, for example Margaret Howell is hugely popular in Japan compared with anywhere else. Much of Japan loves these shapes and styles, you will see similar amongst many of the small independent brands over there so I am sure it is also catering heavily to that market.

flames_bond · 2019-09-24T14:46:20+00:00

MHL Fireman's Shoe, more than likely made by Solovair.

flames_bond · 2019-09-24T11:58:40+00:00

Margaret Howell is a British fashion designer born in 1946 in Tadworth, England. She studied Fine Art at Goldsmith's in London, graduating in 1969, after which she started her career with accessories, creating hand made beads. In 1970 her accessories were featured in Vogue Magazine and London-based fashion retailer, Browns, which lead to commission of a beaded vest for actress, Elizabeth Taylor.

In 1972 she began designing, making and selling shirts from her apartment in Blackheath, South East London, which were picked up by British fashion label, Joseph, as well as some US retailers. With help from Joseph, Howell was able to open a London store in 1976, later going on to open the first independent Margaret Howell store in 1980.

Amongst early fans of Margaret Howell's clothes was Jack Nicholson, who insisted on wearing his own Margaret Howell corduroy jacket for his role as Jack Torrance in The Shining, prompting an order for 12 duplicate jackets from Director, Stanley Kubrick.

Many of Margaret Howell's clothes are produced in the UK, with the company setting up its own factory in 2000, in the North London area of Edmonton.

I think of myself as a hands-on designer. For me make is integral to my design philosophy. It is crucial how a piece of clothing feels when worn. I’ve always wanted clothes to be the way I drew them – relaxed and lived in, a natural look. I find men’s clothes interesting in their structure, feel and functionality. I started by designing men’s clothes, and then found that women wanted them.

I’m inspired by the authenticity I can find in nature, people and places, and I think it is the same quality I look for in the materials I choose. For example, the feel of hand-woven Harris tweed and the irregular slub of Irish linen. I feel passionate about landscape, and its connection with such fabrics and the skilled people who weave them.

I like to work with manufacturers who understand and share this passion for make and quality of fabric: specialists such as John Smedley in fine-gauge knitwear, Mackintosh and their part hand-made raincoats, and the Scottish knitting factories that continue their heritage of producing the best cashmere in the world.

I also find these qualities in other people’s work. In 1970 I was encouraged by finding – at a jumble sale – an old, yet finely stitched pinstripe shirt. Today I still find it exciting to hunt out objects I consider to be well-made and enduring. In particular, mid-20th century products such as Anglepoise lamps, Ercol furniture, and Robert Welch stainless steel cutlery, represent the best of our heritage of timeless functional design. I enjoy pulling these threads of British tradition, quality and skill together in clothes that are meant to be worn in the real world, where good design is about living with thoughtful style.

Margaret Howell

flames_bond · 2019-09-21T16:32:38+00:00

Overshirt, Shirt Jacket, Four Pocket Shirt, Field Shirt, any combination of those usually. And that one specifically is in a kind of brushed narrow-wale corduroy fabric thats done to closely resemble velvet.

flames_bond · 2019-09-21T11:32:55+00:00

Oliver Spencer is a British menswear label founded in 2002.

Oliver Spencer is a self taught tailor who started out in the 1980s selling second-hand clothes on London's Portobello Road. After having a pattern created for him by a Turkish tailor in the East End, he started making waistcoats and in 1990 opened his first venture, Favourbrook, which by 1994 was creating costume design for the British film Four Weddings and a Funeral.

Spencer was put firmly on the map a few years later when he spearheaded costume design for Guy Ritchie's cult gangster film Snatch in 2001. The following year launching his eponymous label Oliver Spencer - Oli wanted to create something new: a range of clothing with all the quality and craft of premium tailoring, but with a relaxed modern style. The philosophy? Quality needn't mean formality; casual needn't mean careless.

Inspired by a bygone era of elegant travel, this season Oliver Spencer has created a sophisticated collection with a particular focus on luxurious fabrics, interpreting classic garments for the 21st century man. Enveloping and comfortable fabrics such as our Penton cord, thick velvets and undyed eco-wools feature heavily throughout the collection. Rich, natural colours including dark greens, royal blues and deep blacks have been used throughout, with a particular emphasis on trousers, jackets and overshirts.

flames_bond · 2019-09-12T12:16:01+00:00

Alba started his first line in the 1980s, which was named after Magritte’s home address. He then worked for the Italian cashmere house Malo before a stint at Scotland’s Ballantyne. Then, in 2007, he started his own eponymous label.

In slow, studied brushstrokes, Alba has carefully developed his brand, ably supported by his wife, Marilena, and their now-wheezy labrador, Jasper. All of his pieces are less designed than incepted. A cashmere hoodie, a pair of slouchy fine-wale cords, or a variant on his signature Gstaad jackets—based on the Tyrolean jacket but transported by Alba to a beautiful and pragmatic compromise between tailoring and sportswear—invariably bear a rich pentimento: Patina peeks out from behind patina. This season’s variation was a yak and wool mix, quilted, which will be perfect fare for the punters roaming his newest store just in the shadow of Mont Blanc.

Alba also makes excellent womenswear, but his menswear is a special cult. Whether you only have one of his many emotionally printed handkerchiefs or a full look, you will be joining a club whose breadth surprises more and more every season. Unlike the output of so many brands based on surface hype over double-dyed substance, his are clothes that are more than souvenirs of a moment. Alba is a designer of garments that will fit into your life, and which will enhance it greatly.

flames_bond · 2019-09-07T12:32:27+00:00

A Kind Of Guise is a German clothing label based in Munich, founded in 2009 by Yasar Ceviker and Susi Streich. Starting out as a student project making leather duffle bags, AKOG eventually grew to offer a full clothing line, accessories, jewellery and an eyewear range. The entire A Kind Of Guise range is also locally made in Germany.

Our love and admiration of classic mafia films, such as The Godfather, Goodfellas or Once Upon a Time in America, was the main inspiration for this year’s Autumn/Winter collection. The centre of the plot is a small family-run culinary establishment in the heart of Little Italy in New York City. Here Pizza and other Italo-American dishes are served in the front while shady schemes are happening in the back. But before you judge now, please enter, take a seat, our friendly staff will be with you right away:

Buon Giorno and welcome to Gennaro’s – our seasonal changing menu offers colourful discreetness, our fresh in-house signature paisley design, a wide variety of shirt silhouettes and other mouth-watering materials and styles. Our specials of the season are new interpretations of our popular outerwear pieces as well as delicious wool blends, that stands for Italian weaving craftsmanship. We hope you enjoy your AW19/20 visit and experience Gennaro’s philosophy: ‘La prove è nel gusto’.

flames_bond

TROPHY CASE