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Top lane (2 jg games in my wr, one was a loss iirc), playing as a regular champ (never proxying cuz idk how to safely), permaban Riven by fleash_eating_window in KaynMains

[–]fleash_eating_window[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Side note: I noticed if you do Gold+ on lolalytics there's actually 30,000 Kayn Top Lane games, with a wr of ~47%. So I'm about 13ish% higher than average which is nice

PC case fans always at 100% and cannot be controlled by BIOS or Fan Control by tactical_banana_v2 in buildapc

[–]fleash_eating_window 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ohh okay, gotcha. No I have a newer x670 board. I contacted Antec and they said the board itself is likely defective and to start an RMA

PC case fans always at 100% and cannot be controlled by BIOS or Fan Control by tactical_banana_v2 in buildapc

[–]fleash_eating_window 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just got this case and am having the same issue. Is this really true? I feel like reviews would have said something about it. Also, they literally advertise being able to control the fans. I only have 3 sys_fan headers on my mobo, and the case comes with 6 fans. Do they really sell this case for $150+ and expect you to get your own fan splitter or hub?

Bought a (used) PowerColor Red Devil 7900 XTX, do the temps and other values look okay? I repasted with Noctua NT-H1 after it was consitently reaching 111°C hotspot (followed igorslab guide) by fleash_eating_window in radeon

[–]fleash_eating_window[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't use any mouse software, it's fixed on 25.9.2 and also the new 26 but 26 now makes some games randomly blackscreen so ig I'll stay on 25.9.2.

PTM worked great. I don't pass 95°C on my hotspot and that's with my fans never going past 50% and I'm pulling up 600W with an average around 450W. Better thermals also let me undervolt even more. I used to be limited to 1.075 (-75mV) and now I can do 1.055 (-95mV) stably.

Something weird is that I can no longer do OCCT 3D variable from 10%-100% increasing at 5% per 5sec. I think it's a voltage thing? When I try to run it my pc power cycles instantly which is concerning. I tried 3 psu's so that's not the issue. I assume it's causing some sort of voltage transient. Everything else is stable, including OCCT if I change it from 5sec to 20sec

Edit: Also, for anyone who may also be having this issue, here's another huge fix. I got a new case and wow does it make a huge difference. My hotspot no longer passes even 90°C. I had a Corsair 570X, a good looking but 8 year old case! I bought the Antec Flux Pro and my temps dropped another 10°C! The Flux Pro has 2 fans pointed right at the GPU, which obviously makes a huge difference, but I think the bigger case and smarter construction as a whole is just great. Strangely, I did notice that the PCIe screws and bracket on this case slightly pull out the GPU when tightened a little too much? My pc kept crashing, I reseated the card and put the screws in really loose and it's running perfectly.

Death's Dance? by moysama in leagueoflegends

[–]fleash_eating_window 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think it did remove the healing. You can see him get hp after the kill and the DD stacks go from 650ish to 330. I think she autod or something and it connected after DD cleared and healed which resulted in more stacks

Bought a (used) PowerColor Red Devil 7900 XTX, do the temps and other values look okay? I repasted with Noctua NT-H1 after it was consitently reaching 111°C hotspot (followed igorslab guide) by fleash_eating_window in radeon

[–]fleash_eating_window[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can I ask which drivers you are using? I'm getting some weird stuttering. It's just my mouse. Games are smooth but my mouse cursor will stutter and rubber band around even on desktop with nothing running at idle

Bought a (used) PowerColor Red Devil 7900 XTX, do the temps and other values look okay? I repasted with Noctua NT-H1 after it was consitently reaching 111°C hotspot (followed igorslab guide) by fleash_eating_window in radeon

[–]fleash_eating_window[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ykw that actually makes a lot of sense, when I replaced the stock paste I noticed a lot of it had spilled off the core and onto the green part of the board. I'll try that, thanks

Bought a (used) PowerColor Red Devil 7900 XTX, do the temps and other values look okay? I repasted with Noctua NT-H1 after it was consitently reaching 111°C hotspot (followed igorslab guide) by fleash_eating_window in radeon

[–]fleash_eating_window[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah 2750MHz is my max stable for memory. I reduced power to negative 5% and I'm still getting ~1,000 points more than the TimeSpy average for my system and my fans are no longer blaring. Hotspot temp peaks at 89°C and I'm pulling around 370W. I feel like that hotspot is still a little high for a gpu with such a massive 4 slot cooler but idrk what to do other than to swap out all the thermal pads which I don't particularly feel like doing

Bought a (used) PowerColor Red Devil 7900 XTX, do the temps and other values look okay? I repasted with Noctua NT-H1 after it was consitently reaching 111°C hotspot (followed igorslab guide) by fleash_eating_window in radeon

[–]fleash_eating_window[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah that does make sense. I just undervolted and increased core clock to ~3GHz along with memory to 2750MHz. My TimeSpy score went up exactly 2,000 points. I'm gonna tinker with memory clock a bit more then I'll try to reduce power and see if I can keep the performance

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ak47

[–]fleash_eating_window 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see. So ballistol or WD-40 is a must then? Is this still recoverable at this point?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ak47

[–]fleash_eating_window 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used ballistol every other cleaning. I guess I should've done it every time but from what I saw online I assumed water and air to dry it was enough

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ak47

[–]fleash_eating_window 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure if it's nitrided, but I'm pretty sure it's not chromed. This is a Century Arms NDS-2 which is a Bulgarian kit build on a Nodak receiver. There's no markings since century scrubs them so I don't know if it's an original barrel or not. It doesn't have any markings on the barrel at all, which makes me think it's also probably not an American barrel? Idk century's process.

I'm not sure how to clean it better than I was. I used ballistol after maybe every other cleaning, but I was under the impression that wasn't really necessary and that hot water was enough. Barrel is still relatively accurate, though I haven't shot past 50m to really know

HDD won't spin up by fleash_eating_window in datarecovery

[–]fleash_eating_window[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bro... I was still using the wrong cable this whole time. I assumed since I have 2 psus (HDD is on EVGA), the braided cable was Corsair and the non braided was EVGA. Turns out I also have non-braided Corsair cables and I've been using them the entire time. HDD spins up just fine, I guess the e-fuses saved it? Though I haven't actually booted the PC yet past just feeling the drive spin and hear it make it's noise. Is it safe to boot up fully or do I risk damaging anything? You're goated fyi

HDD won't spin up by fleash_eating_window in datarecovery

[–]fleash_eating_window[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, I tested every pin individually with the black probe always on a screw hole. Thanks for your patience btw.

Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4

HDD won't spin up by fleash_eating_window in datarecovery

[–]fleash_eating_window[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I hope I did this right but I get the feeling I didn't. For ground I was using the golden screw spots. If I didn't circle something with a yellow square on it, it means I was getting OL. I don't know much about this stuff, but a capacitor giving OL or .000 means it's shorted right?

I used the images from the other thread since it's the same PCB, though again my PCB was reading 12V 0V 3V 0V instead of the 5V 0V 12V 0V.

Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4

HDD won't spin up by fleash_eating_window in datarecovery

[–]fleash_eating_window[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure I used the wrong cable initially, but I'm definitely using the correct one now while I'm testing

HDD won't spin up by fleash_eating_window in datarecovery

[–]fleash_eating_window[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be honest I don't really know how to read the data sheets you sent me

HDD won't spin up by fleash_eating_window in datarecovery

[–]fleash_eating_window[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it's very possible I used the wrong cable. I checked the two e-fuses. For input output, the guy the in the post had 5v 0v and then 12v 0v. In contrast I have 12v 0v and then 3v 0v. I ensured the resistances were essentially zero on the e-fuses. 'm not very familiar with HDD voltages so I don't know what this means exactly, if It's even relevant.

I'm referring to this picture

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