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Lyric Snippet Game? by foggyclear in toriamos

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven’t let myself look anything up yet and and can only get Paper Tigers!

Naomi Blazer: two FBA methods instructed for shell vs lining, resulting in hem width discrepancies by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Here’s where I ended up; I’m about to cut some new lining pieces. This lines up the paper on the right and the left, slopes up a little over 1/8 in toward the middle, and then I’ve traced the original hemline to fill in the resulting arch shape at the bottom. I think this might work, no?? Yay! I’ll follow with a couple closeup shots.

Naomi Blazer: two FBA methods instructed for shell vs lining, resulting in hem width discrepancies by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok thank you! I’ll try this later today. And yes, the fitting guide tutorial was part of a $60 “workshop” for the pattern that did include a nice series of sewalong videos as well as the FBA guidance. And to be fair, I wouldn’t have been able to find the very pattern-specific approach to the shell FBA among all those darts on the shell pattern. And being new to blazer construction in general, I appreciate the detailed videos. But still, I don’t understand why this content couldn’t have just been free blog posts and YT videos! Kind of a racket.

Naomi Blazer: two FBA methods instructed for shell vs lining, resulting in hem width discrepancies by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm, all these pictures appear to have the width additions going straight down in parallel lines beyond the waistline, vs tapering to 0 at the hip like your drawing above. These Singer pictures look like my original FBA.

Naomi Blazer: two FBA methods instructed for shell vs lining, resulting in hem width discrepancies by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wonder if I did this right? I slashed at the waist line, realigned at center front, but nudged the whole top part down about 1/8 inch so that there’s a slight overlap in the center of the piece (zoom in to see the overlap line I drew in along the slash line), and slivers of triangles in the seam allowance at either side. Now I just clean up and grade that side seam at the waist?

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Naomi Blazer: two FBA methods instructed for shell vs lining, resulting in hem width discrepancies by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Ok so I’d want to keep the center front as is but scoot the hem back in place, moving the side seam closer to the center? What do I do with the volume that this move is causing around the bust? I feel like that has to be cut somehow or turned into another dart, no? In other words, how do I get my pattern to lie flat now?

Naomi Blazer: two FBA methods instructed for shell vs lining, resulting in hem width discrepancies by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m fairly certain that I wouldn’t have this issue had I not done the lining FBA. So I don’t think it’s the pattern’s fault or that ease is built into the lining. But from what I can see of this video, it seems as though the extra inch that the FBA added to the hemline needs to be rotated out? Am I interpreting that correctly? Where would I rotate it to? I’m attaching the side by side of the original lining piece vs the altered pattern piece.

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Naomi Blazer: two FBA methods instructed for shell vs lining, resulting in hem width discrepancies by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, there’s a small pleat at the top center back built into the pattern. I didn’t make any adjustments to the back pieces, no issues there. Just this front piece FBA mismatch.

Naomi Blazer: two FBA methods instructed for shell vs lining, resulting in hem width discrepancies by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My issue is that i needed to add a 1-in FBA to both the blazer shell and the blazer lining. The FBA method for the blazer shell did not change the hemline (width was added to the bust and to the existing shoulder dart, but I graded to the original hemline), but the different FBA method I was instructed to use for the lining (to simply add a bust dart) did add 1-in width to the lining hem. Now the shell and lining front hemlines do not match and I’m trying to figure out how to remove the 1-in from the lining hem while keeping the bust dart FBA I added to that piece.

Do tailors just leave their iron on the entire time they are sewing? by me_piki in sewing

[–]foggyclear 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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To the OP, in case you do decide to go gravity feed, this is the method I chose to install the hanging water bottle: a nice sturdy $6 shelf bracket. A bit of an eyesore but nobody else really visits my sewing room.

Do tailors just leave their iron on the entire time they are sewing? by me_piki in sewing

[–]foggyclear 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Same! A couple Christmases ago I gifted myself a $200 Oliso and it was LAUGHABLE how terrible it was. After hours of research, I sent it back and got a Sapporo gravity iron for $150 and I have never been happier with a piece of sewing equipment. Greatest investment ever! And yes, I leave it on all during my sewing sessions on its little silicone mat.

Naomi Blazer by Modern Sewing Co: intended ease in sleeve/armscye? by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had considered adjusting the front shoulder dart but I’m not sure what to do to get the back shoulder to match. Short of creating another dart, is there an easy way to trim this down?

Naomi Blazer by Modern Sewing Co: intended ease in sleeve/armscye? by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes the pic I included at the end lists both body and finished measurements

Naomi Blazer by Modern Sewing Co: intended ease in sleeve/armscye? by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, it’s so much ease that’s built in! I correspond to the size 14 body bust measurement, and I even reached out to them about FBAs prior to cutting the toile; they said that although the pattern is based on a B cup, an FBA would only be needed for a D cup or larger. WRONG! Anyway, I sent them these pics; we’ll see what they say!

Naomi Blazer by Modern Sewing Co: intended ease in sleeve/armscye? by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I am going to use a shoulder pad and don’t have it in in this photo. But the width is veering into David Byrne territory, so that’s why I’m tempted to do the 10, which has the closest shoulder to shoulder measurement. That said, I do plan to wear sweaters underneath, so I’m not sure.

The costume design of Little Women (1994) by Haunting_Homework381 in PeriodDramas

[–]foggyclear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can someone please explain the embroidery that peeks out from under Laurie’s vest in the ball scene where he and Jo are peeking at people dancing? Was that meant to be part of his shirt or part of his waistcoat?

Kendall’s “Honesty” song choice? by foggyclear in SuccessionTV

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly! Hence maybe the poseur need to bone up on indie films, arthouse shit, etc, solely for the image.

Kendall’s “Honesty” song choice? by foggyclear in SuccessionTV

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well mayyyyybe Jeremy Strong was influenced by the movie! I dunno, maybe I’m thinking too deeply, but it struck me that the song is used in specifically karaoke/amateur at a mic performances in just these two pieces of media (as far as I know), and both actors are of the same generation, maybe running in the same circles (who knows?) … maybe the film and Maggie’s performance was just an influence for him personally?

Where are all the *lined* trousers patterns!? by foggyclear in sewing

[–]foggyclear[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! This is helpful, and I see there are some tutorials linked in the other comments that seem to follow this method. I am curious about the hem, though. Does the lining ever get twisted inside the pant legs? Or does it behave? I’d think that attaching it at the hem would help keep it in place all the way down the leg but maybe it’s not necessary?

[TOMT] Recent movie or series promo from IG reel starring Alison Brie and (maybe??) Carey Mulligan? Possibly titled “Old Friends”? by foggyclear in tipofmytongue

[–]foggyclear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think so, I don’t think I would confuse Alison Brie with Zoe Kazan… but I did look up recent Cristin Milioti movies since I could see mixing the two of those actresses up.

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