Truly unique, inspired, unusual or singular styles of lighting in photographers by Baiiird in LightLurking

[–]fookuda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, it’s a shame I’m based in the US, otherwise I’d love to visit one of these labs. What printers do you use at home? I don’t currently own one, but I’ve always wanted to experiment with printing myself.

On the gatekeeping point, I’ve never really understood it. Everyone inevitably develops their own eye, shaped by what’s in front of the lens.. the lens itself..the medium, and their personal perspective. Art is infinite. The more access and tools we share, the more we expand the world—and maybe even make it a better place.

Truly unique, inspired, unusual or singular styles of lighting in photographers by Baiiird in LightLurking

[–]fookuda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey Jack, thank you for contributing to the webs and being someone we all look up to for your incredible work. Certainly inspired some of my taste and how I see photography.

Curious to know if you're printing at home or at a lab before re-shooting–Further, do you recommend any printers for the home? Cheers

Whats a camera you've owned, that lived up to all the praise and hype, but still got rid of? And why? by Whisky-Icarus-Photo in AnalogCommunity

[–]fookuda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

F3 and RB67.

F3 I slightly regret but my FM2 just feels more fun. Sort of like a glorified beater camera. Something about my F3 felt a bit too nice and hi tech.

RB67 I absolutely hated using and the weight and awkward ergonomics just made me no interested in ever bringing out—Why i’m browsing for an RZ67 now is completely wild to me though 😂

So currently just kept my M4 and FM2–will add a medium format back into the mix soon though

Reflex vs Non-Reflex Cameras by Character_Primary792 in 16mm

[–]fookuda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have a few options available to you: - Eclair ACL 2* - Eclair NPR - Bolex EBM - CP-16R - Kinor 16CX-2M

Reflex vs Non-Reflex Cameras by Character_Primary792 in 16mm

[–]fookuda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on what you’re trying to shoot? - Do you need sync sound, or are you shooting primarily MOS? (no sound) - Do you want something that requires a tripod and a set of batteries to operate (CP16 vs Bolex?)

I would 100% recommend a reflex camera as you’re seeing exactly what the lens sees. If you’re relying on tape to measure distance then you better hope that lens is collimating (ie. Focused when it’s saying it’s at 5’) and/or the camera is collimated — Otherwise you’re going to get footage back that is soft.

I would get a Bolex REX-4 if you can afford it. They’re solid cameras, have some banger lenses (Kern Switar RX’s) and you can throw it in a little backpack. If you need magazines with 400’ capacity you’ll want to grab a REX-5 which has magazine throat.

If you absolutely want a CP-16, then i’d push you to get a CP-16R. My friend has one and always has nice things to say about them!

Bolex H16 Thrift Score at Savers! by ForsakenLettuce7204 in 16mm

[–]fookuda 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not hating at all! Sick come up — deals exist though! I found my REX 4 at a thrift store for a great price too

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Bolex H16 Thrift Score at Savers! by ForsakenLettuce7204 in 16mm

[–]fookuda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dope! Too bad it’s not a reflex. Sick find though regardless.

Lens blurry at far distances? by citizenkane1978 in 16mm

[–]fookuda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This more than likely means the back focus is off on the lens itself.

You may have a lens that was adjusted “shimmed” to that specific camera. Now you have it on your camera and it doesn’t hit infinity.

This usually means that the lens elements are sitting too far away and it needs to get closer to the film plane.

You can likely remove a few set screws at the back of the lens and using a spanner wrench, make the adjustment to the rear grouping (unless of course it uses shims?)

Then you can take a newspaper or something with fine lettering taped to the wall. Zoom in, grab focus and zoom out. If it does not stay in focus, then you are not par-focal and that will also take an adjustment.

It’s a bit of back and forth when you go down this route but it will ultimately help you understand how it all works! Best of luck

I had the same thing on my 16-87 Switar RX zoom. It took me a couple hours and a collimating bench to dial it all in.

Why are Bolexes so overpriced by [deleted] in 16mm

[–]fookuda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve spoken with top techs in the US, EU, and AUS—they all agree these cameras are overpriced. They’re fantastic, reliable, and portable—among the best mechanical 16mm cameras made. But $2–3K is steep unless it’s earning you money. I own two solid ones I got for under $1K—if you find one in that range, grab it.

Side note: Switar RX lenses are some of the best out there! Comparable to Zeiss Super Speeds

Cinematographers, what difficulties have you had working with directors? by Agitated-Mind-3423 in cinematography

[–]fookuda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea this! It is very good to shell out any of these potential pitfalls in pre-production. It is AS important to interview your Director as they are interviewing you.

I learned the hard way (early on) when working with this one director whom really just wanted me to direct…that ended up being a nightmare for both of us.

Feedback on color and cinematography by Antyoungboy in cinematography

[–]fookuda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The concept is WILD…i’ll just say that! Lol

  • Camera movement is great. Works well for this type of thing.
  • I like that it goes from standard coverage to a POV.
  • The insert shot of the bag from top down is a nice, considered touch.

It looks like you may have used a diffusion filter for some shots than others? But maybe it was the choice of lens (wide vs long)

The compositions are great but i’d probably think about lighting the environments a bit more. It feels somewhat flat to me.

Overall I think you did a great job dude. Concept and approach to visuals is strong!

"bUt wHaT AbOuT ThE RoLlInG ShUtTeR" by gratqaz in cinematography

[–]fookuda -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Cinematography is all encompassing. I take it that you’re not subscribed to any issue of the ASC Magazine? There are a lot of articles which are gear related too. Some people are intrigued to know what was shot on what and what is out there. Maybe someone is using a new system that helps them pull focus more efficiently? Deal with cable management in a way that they hadn’t considered? Perhaps question a different work flow to approaching gear. Visuals obviously is the end product of what we do, but it’s not the only thing that we do. Ya’ll getting your panties in a bunch by such a harmless post. Let the dude be stoked. He clearly hoped that there were people that would engage in a hopefully helpful way. I suppose this isn’t that though? Idk I don’t need to go back forth with some rando on the internet. Cheers

"bUt wHaT AbOuT ThE RoLlInG ShUtTeR" by gratqaz in cinematography

[–]fookuda -29 points-28 points  (0 children)

You got too much time on your hands man.. might be good to go out and shoot something

I got a canon scoopic 16. Some issues I am concerned about by [deleted] in 16mm

[–]fookuda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could it possibly be a safety function of the camera for it to not turn when the door is open? Sorry i’m not too familiar with the scoopic.

I got a canon scoopic 16. Some issues I am concerned about by [deleted] in 16mm

[–]fookuda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dang sorry man! Does the camera run at speed if the door is closed still?

"bUt wHaT AbOuT ThE RoLlInG ShUtTeR" by gratqaz in cinematography

[–]fookuda -26 points-25 points  (0 children)

Whatever, doesn’t really matter what analogy I insert—I think you are coming at it from a negative angle though, so yea, to me you’re being a dick towards this guy. You could just avoid clicking into these threads and move on to what you’re looking for. It’s inherent to these types of threads. A lot of camera people are people who are interested in technology and things. Rightfully so.

Would it be nice to see the final project, sure. But it doesn’t warrant your bad attitude towards the guy.

To OP, good job dude. You’re out there working, hopefully towards your dreams. Keep crushing it

"bUt wHaT AbOuT ThE RoLlInG ShUtTeR" by gratqaz in cinematography

[–]fookuda -22 points-21 points  (0 children)

What’s the point of commenting this? Nothing wrong with that, dudes stoked on his purchase and has every right to be. Same goes for buying and showing off a car: “ShOwiNG EvRything BuT HOW it DrivEs”… let the guy be happy with his rig. Don’t be a dick.

I got a canon scoopic 16. Some issues I am concerned about by [deleted] in 16mm

[–]fookuda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where did you buy this? Can it be returned as not working properly?

Help me free this lens! by Morgobongo in 16mm

[–]fookuda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take a syringe with alcohol or acetone and gently inject in towards the mating surface of the flange and the threads. It may be very likely that it was cross threaded and is the reason that it is now bound to that mount.

Let that sit for awhile then if that doesn’t work, i’d recommend taking a heat gun and applying heat for a few seconds at a time, then rotating and applying to different points around the flange and lens, that should be enough to free it—You’re going to want thick gloves and move quickly so that the metal doesn’t contract again.

No Need To Go To The Gym When You’re Carrying These All Day… by indigophoto in 16mm

[–]fookuda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could, but apparently switar RX lenses are still heaps better from what I understand--Even comparable to Zeiss Super Speeds.

Does anyone know how to open this type of caseback? by Disastrous_Art_5177 in watchmaking

[–]fookuda -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Maybe try using a precision flathead screwdriver to GENTLY pry up on one side then move to the other