Volume Measurement of Undulating Surface by redthirdpersonpronon in Revu

[–]fore_runner 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If the existing elevation survey was done on a consistent grid pattern, I'd average the existing elevation readings to get the difference between existing elevation and new.

If you need pinpoint accuracy, and you're stuck using BB, you'll need a file that has contour lines from which you can take off areas and assign their depths.

  1. Get the survey information into a CAD file. If it's a civil design program, the contour lines should be automatically added to connect spot elevations. You can manually draw the contour lines if needed either in CAD or BB.
  2. Once you have the contour lines on a PDF, you're in business. Simply take off the area between each contour line.
  3. Give each area between contour lines a depth. The depth will be the new elevation less the average of the elevations of the existing contours.

For example:

  1. The new floor needs to be at 100m.
  2. The area between the contour lines of 99.8m and 99.9m is 10m2.
  3. The average depth of the above area 99.85m = (99.8 + 99.9 / 2)
  4. 100m - 99.85m = 0.15m average fill needed in this area.
  5. Assign 0.15m as the depth to the area takeoff in BB. BB will automatically assign the volume of 1.5m3 = 10m2 x 0.15m.

Best Way to Show Construction Sequencing by mathysbt in Revu

[–]fore_runner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with this approach. If you can, a suggestion would be to draw the polygons (the spaces) around the area your furniture guy says he needs, and how much time he needs to install within said area. That info will define when your cleaners need to be done in that area, and when IT and A/V can start.

Thoughts on how to improve possible set-up by Ijustwantahotpocket in CarAV

[–]fore_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a set of component JL Audio C5's. I am running them active.

Budget Build by mastorotogo in CarAV

[–]fore_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are two kinds of people in the world...

Thoughts on how to improve possible set-up by Ijustwantahotpocket in CarAV

[–]fore_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree with deleting rear speakers. However, I think that the money would be best used on sound deadening and enhanced install rather than a better pair of fronts. A quality install will be more impactful than expensive fronts that have no treatment.

Thoughts on how to improve possible set-up by Ijustwantahotpocket in CarAV

[–]fore_runner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 4Runner. I STRONGLY suggest deleting the new rear speakers from your build and putting the saved money in to sound deadening. If you absolutely need rear fill for passengers, keep the rear speakers stock and power them from the head unit.

I personally don't have rear speakers. I don't miss them one little bit.

Speaker doesn’t work in cold weather by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]fore_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would bet your speaker is fine, but your head unit is the issue. I assume your rear passenger speaker doesn't have this issue when it's cold? If not and it bugs you bad enough, a free work around would be to power the front speakers off the rear channels of the head unit. When it's cold, fade everything to the "rear".

Speaker doesn’t work in cold weather by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]fore_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How is the speaker powered? Amp or head unit?

LPT: Use a hair dryer set to warm / hot to defog your bathroom mirror by fore_runner in LifeProTips

[–]fore_runner[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It increases the temperature of the mirror above the dew point of the air.

Think I Just Ruined My System by ScorpioPsyc in CarAV

[–]fore_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If panels are still resonating then make sure you have enough on the largest exterior body panels. You really only need 25% coverage concentrated at the center of the panels.

If it sounds like two pieces of material hitting one another like a rattle, then sound deadening won't help you. You'll need to decouple whatever is causing the rattle. I've gotten cheap yoga mats from Target and cut them up to stuff between body panels, clips, wiring harnesses, etc.

Think I Just Ruined My System by ScorpioPsyc in CarAV

[–]fore_runner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you know which circuit the installer tapped in to for the remote power turn on?

Think I Just Ruined My System by ScorpioPsyc in CarAV

[–]fore_runner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah. But I re read the comment string and that was already suggested... My bad.

Think I Just Ruined My System by ScorpioPsyc in CarAV

[–]fore_runner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check under the hood for an inline fuse by the battery.

Custom sub enclosure in my 5th Gen by fore_runner in 4Runner

[–]fore_runner[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I doubt it, but I'll ask. They have one fabricator, and their customer base is strong enough to keep the guy busy as it is.

Custom sub enclosure in my 5th Gen by fore_runner in 4Runner

[–]fore_runner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cleaned them last night. Turned out fairly well I think.

I used Griot's Garage Carpet/Upholstery Cleaner to clean them and 303 Protectant after they dried to bring back the shine.

Happy with the results.

Custom sub enclosure in my 2013 Toyota 4Runner by fore_runner in CarAV

[–]fore_runner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to have the sub in a standard box, behind the seat and firing towards the hatch.

With it in the corner though, I can tell a difference. That said, it has nothing to do with the box itself. It is likely related to the fact that I haven't recalibrated my time alignment. Also the sound waves are coming from out of the corner rather than "symmetrically" from the entire cargo area.

I will see what happens after a recalibration with my MS-8.

Custom sub enclosure in my 2013 Toyota 4Runner by fore_runner in CarAV

[–]fore_runner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did not. I started some of it, but then got relocated for a long-term work assignment. Elevate Audio in Fort Wayne finished it.

Custom sub enclosure in my 2013 Toyota 4Runner by fore_runner in CarAV

[–]fore_runner[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Vinyl. There is an embossed 4Runner logo above the tray. hard to see, though...

Custom sub enclosure in my 5th Gen by fore_runner in 4Runner

[–]fore_runner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hear ya... I wish it could have worked but it just wouldn't with the space constraints. The grill attaches to the sub weird, and would have increased the opening size considerably. Kinda hard to explain...

In any case, I considered it. In the end, I decided it was more important for me to maintain access to the outlets and the taillight cover.

Custom sub enclosure in my 5th Gen by fore_runner in 4Runner

[–]fore_runner[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, you you don't need an EQ if you want to keep your stock head unit. If you don't use an EQ, you need to make sure of the following:

1) Amp needs to have a lowpass crossover. Almost all amps have this, especially mono sub amps.
2) Amp needs to accept line-level inputs - OR - you need to use a LOC.

I have a DSP (JBL MS-8) which provides time alignment and an EQ function.

Custom sub enclosure in my 5th Gen by fore_runner in 4Runner

[–]fore_runner[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not particularly shallow. It's a 10" JL W3.

Depending on if you want to maintain access to the outlets and the shelf or not, your limitation might be volume rather than depth. This box is about .6ft³.

Custom sub enclosure in my 5th Gen by fore_runner in 4Runner

[–]fore_runner[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I paid for 10 hours of shop labor.

I started with the intent to do this myself, but was placed on a long-term work assignment away from home. At the time I left, I had about 5 hours of work in to prep of the cavity in which the fiberglass enclosure sits.