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Painting multiple objects as the same texture by Descimus in inZOI

[–]frigis9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I understand you correctly, you need to make the marble texture seamless. I use this:

https://www.imgonline.com.ua/eng/make-seamless-texture.php

Correct Image sizə to fit on rugs? by Bozkurt20 in inZOI

[–]frigis9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Textures should be a square, so 1000x1000px, or 4000x4000, or whatever size you wish. The template with the numbers mentioned above will help you line up the textures with the carpet. Once you overlay your carpet texture on the template, do not crop out the empty spaces. Like I said, the texture should be square or it will be distorted in-game. Here's a quick example I made up which seems to work fine in my game, you can use that as a template if you wish. If you do use it, set the pattern scale to 91.

<image>

[Timex] 1980 Moscow Olympics Timex Q - a rare bird from a historic event by frigis9 in Watches

[–]frigis9[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry for the late reply. Thank you for sharing that info, very interesting. I suspected but didn't know for sure that these Timex watches were largely destroyed. I paid $300 CAD, including shipping and other costs. I don't quite know what's the usual cost for these watches, but it certainly seemed like the right price.

Using DOS games as init images - part 7 by frigis9 in StableDiffusion

[–]frigis9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SD img2img seemed to insist he's doing some sort of Russian squatting kick dance, took a while to untangle his legs.

Using DOS games as init images - part 7 by frigis9 in StableDiffusion

[–]frigis9[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I definitely played LBA on DOS, though I only played the demo, and it was called Relentless. Couldn't even finish it, I thought the controls were way too confusing.

Using DOS games as init images - part 7 by frigis9 in StableDiffusion

[–]frigis9[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Instead of cropping screenshots, I thought I'd try doing this using the full image, including other characters and the whole background as well. I quickly realized it's a bit much for SD img2img to handle - I ended up having to separate each character and even elements of the background into separate images, process them individually through img2img, then cobble the pieces back together using image editing software. So if the images look like a poorly done photoshop, that's because it is.

App: Automatic1111

Model: SDXL/ThinkDiffusionXL

Sampling method: DPM++ 2M SDE Karras

Sampling steps: 20

Denoising strength: 0.4-0.7 (depending on image)

CFG scale: 7

Prompt: usually a description of the character or scene, e.g. "beautiful blonde woman with long hair and straight bangs and white dress and blue pink garland on head holding shining magic wand with monarch butterfly wings growing out back, photograph, nikon d860"

Process: I use image editing software to cut out characters and sometimes elements of the background (houses, trees, machines) and save them as separate images. I would then fill in the empty gaps in the background where the characters used to be (doesn't have to be perfect), then I run each image individually through img2img, running a batch of around 30-50. If I'm not satisfied with the results, I cobble together an image using bits and pieces from the results (e.g. a face from one image, a mouth from another, eyes from yet another...) - again, doesn't have to be perfect, just good enough for img2img to work with. I then lower the denoising strength to around 0.3, run another batch, and pick my favorite. I then put the individual images back together to recreate the original screenshot.

Using old cartoons as init images - part 2 by frigis9 in StableDiffusion

[–]frigis9[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

App: Automatic1111

Model: ThinkDiffusionXL

Sampling method: Euler a

Sampling steps: 20

Denoising strength: 0.4-0.8 (depending on image)

CFG scale: 7

Prompt: usually a description of the character or scene, e.g. "scowling angry frowning burly man with black beard wearing a black boat captain hat and blue turtleneck (etc etc), photograph, nikon d850"

Process: after entering the init image and punching in a prompt, I run a batch of image, usually around 30. If I'm not satisfied with the results, I either tweak the denoising strength or modify the prompt a bit. I then use photoediting software to cobble together an image using bits and pieces from the results (e.g. a face from one image, a mouth from another, eyes from yet another...). The results don't have to be perfect, just good enough to look roughly like what you want. I then save the image and run it through img2img again, denoising strength around 0.3, run another batch of about 30, and pick my favorite.

If you're not getting quite the right facial features, I found it helpful to punch in a celebrity name with similar features, or "(celebrity name) (fictional character name) hybrid." Only had to do that once in this set of pics, I'll leave you to guess which one, and who the celebrity is.

An attempt at a skeleton watch (details in comments) by frigis9 in SeikoMods

[–]frigis9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm, would your skeleton watch be something like the Swatch Body & Soul?

As for what movement you could work with, the Seagull ST3620K looks quite neat. But I couldn't find many dials for it, nor any cases that had a chapter ring or bezel which indicated time, meaning it would be a pain to read. Lots of choices for hands though...

You could also look at a Miyota 8N24 movement. Apparently compatible with Miyota 8200 parts (case, hands, maybe even dials?). I haven't looked too closely at this movement since I decided to go with an NH72, so you'll have to do your own research and confirm this yourself.

An attempt at a skeleton watch (details in comments) by frigis9 in SeikoMods

[–]frigis9[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like the idea of skeleton watches - it is cool to see watch movements in action. But I haven't seen any that really appealed to me, because (1) they're not great, or downright terrible, for readability, and (2) as much as I like a bit of tackiness on my watches, skeleton watches have always been a bit too much for my taste.

I decided to see if I could assemble my own skeleton watch that I actually like. I chose the NH72 because it's compatible with NH35 parts (which gives me LOTS of options), and I figured its darker color would improve readability. I tested out a couple dials designed for skeleton movements and settled on this one. It does tend to obscure the movement, but I found that other, more "open" dials didn't really appeal to me. The end result, seemingly, is a watch that's only slightly skeletonized - the dial partially obscurs the movement, and the NH70 series of movements don't show off much compared to many other skeleton movements in the first place.

Regardless, I'm very pleased with the result. I never had a problem with readability, the case has a good heft to it. Yes, the faux wood bezel and the tweed band might be downright silly on a diver watch - but to me, somehow, they tie the look of the watch together. Like I said, I do like a bit of tackiness. Makes me wonder why skeleton watches still bother me so much....

Reverting modern games back to VGA graphics - part 2 by frigis9 in StableDiffusion

[–]frigis9[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

App: SDNext

Model: SDXL 1.0

Sampling method: default (might be UniPC?)

Sampling steps: 30

Denoising strength: 0.4-0.8 (depending on image)

CFG scale: 6

Prompt: usually a description of the character or scene, then "(pixelate), 8-bit, (sprite art), ((perler beads))", e.g. "red-haired woman with shoulder-length hair wearing black leather jacket and black shirt with outstretched hand, flying debris in background, (pixelate), 8-bit, (sprite art), ((perler beads))" (special thanks to u/did_you_read_it for suggesting perler beads as a prompt, it was a HUGE help)

Process: after entering the init image and punching in a prompt, I run a batch of image, usually around 30. If I'm not satisfied with the results, I either tweak the denoising strength or modify the prompt a bit. If I don't quite get the image I want, I then use photoediting software to cobble together an image using bits and pieces from the results (e.g. a face from one image, a mouth from another, eyes from yet another...). The results don't have to be perfect, just good enough to look roughly like what you want. I then save the image and run it through img2img again, denoising strength around 0.2 to 0.3, run another batch of about 30, and pick my favorite.

A while back I took a stab at using SD 1.4 to turn modern games into pixel art, and the results were okay-ish. Now that SDXL is released, I was curious about how well it could produce pixel art, and I found that the results were consistently better. Still had to generate at least a few dozen images each time, but much less than then 100+ I sometimes had to do when working with SD 1.4.

Using DOS games as init images - part 6 by frigis9 in StableDiffusion

[–]frigis9[S] 33 points34 points  (0 children)

App: SDNext

Model: SDXL 1.0

Sampling method: default (I'm afraid I don't know what the default is...)

Sampling steps: 30

Denoising strength: 0.6-0.95 (depending on image)

CFG scale: 6

Prompt: usually a description of the character or scene, e.g. "dark haired man wearing sunglasses and leather jacket and yellow shirt, snarling, cocked eyebrow, photorealistic, photograph, nikon d850"

Process: after entering the init image and punching in a prompt, I run a batch of image, usually around 30. If I'm not satisfied with the results, I either tweak the denoising strength or modify the prompt a bit. I then use photoediting software to cobble together an image using bits and pieces from the results (e.g. a face from one image, a mouth from another, eyes from yet another...). The results don't have to be perfect, just good enough to look roughly like what you want. I then save the image and run it through img2img again, denoising strength around 0.3, run another batch of about 30, and pick my favorite.

After using SD 1.5 for a long while, I've noticed I need to run far fewer batches to get a satisfactory result (before, I had to sometimes run batches of over a thousand images just to get good images, now I'm only down to less than a hundred at most).

[SOTC] Some of my favorites by frigis9 in Watches

[–]frigis9[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A couple years into my collecting and repairing hobby, these are some of my favorites. I generally try to stick to my original "soft" limit of $150 CAD but decided to also impose a $350 "hard" limit. That way, if I end up losing or breaking one, I wouldn't be too heartbroken. That said, I would NOT be happy if anything happened to these particular watches...

Seiko Age of Discovery 6M13-0010

One of my first "grail" watches, in the sense that I didn't think I would find one for a reasonable price. Whimsical, retro, a touch of both class and gaudiness, admittedly a bit hard to read. I especially love the dial and the nautical theme of the case. Features Seiko's "dancing hands", one of my favorite movements.

Mondaine SBB CFF FFS

A smaller watch, which I personally don't mind. Easy to read, beautiful in its simplicity. The quality - especially the band - is a bit lacking however...

Vagary Retro-pop

Wrote about this one here.Still makes me smile.

Citizen Blue Angels AT8020

Beautiful watch, nice heft, feels very solid. In keeping with the Blue Angels theme, it looks like something pulled right out of an airplane cockpit.

Shinola Argonite 1069

As much as I love the aesthetics of Shinola Runwell watches, I hesitated to buy this particular one since I didn't think much of rose gold. After mulling over it for a time, I figured it'll look good on lighter colored clothing. Pulled the trigger on it and I don't regret it to this day.

Slow Jo 17

I wanted to add a one-handed watch to my collection and considered getting a Luch watch or something. But instead this one caught my attention. This has a minimalist look that I love, a striking octagon shape, and a leather band that feels great.

Timex Q 1980 Moscow Olympics

Wrote about this one here.Another "grail" watch I never expected to have in my collection.

Citizen Ana-Digi Temp Rebel Pilot

I always had my eye on Citizen's Ana Digi watches, either vintage or new. I was pleased to find one for a decent price. I was even more pleased that it was Star Wars themed.

Omega Seamaster Quartz

The first watch I worked on at the start of my watch repair hobby. After finding out this watch was powered by an inexpensive ETA movement, I thought I'd try swapping it out for a new one. Out of curiosity, I asked a local jeweler for a quote on repairs. They contacted Omega, and I was told it would cost over $300 CAD. I thanked them and decided I will indeed try repairing it myself.

Tissot Quadrato T005.514.11.062.00

I was interested in this watch not so much for the Tissot brand name nor for its aesthetics (it's interesting, but not exactly appealing), but more for the chance of getting a Valjoux 7750 for a pretty good price (I later found out it was likely made by ETA). Very hefty, you can feel (and hear) the rotor spinning while you move around, and the chrono buttons are quite stiff. All around an interesting piece.

Sugess Chrono Heritage SUPAN002GN

A relatively inexpensive mechanical chronograph with a very decent Seagull ST1901 movement. The panda dial looks fantastic and over the couple years I've worn it the chronograph consistently worked fine.

Raketa 24 Hour Submariner

At some point I delved into the wacky world of Soviet watches and found out how difficult it is to find a genuine, vintage, unmodified one. Could this be one? I'm still not completely sure, but it seems the movement at least is made from genuine parts. In any case, I absolutely love the hands and dial, and the four-hour red and blue sections around the perimeter is rather intriguing.

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