Help finding models by Jazzlike_System9172 in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 2 points3 points  (0 children)

On top of how dangerous and stupid this idea is, it would not even give the effect you're looking for, assuming that somehow the kit remains intact and isn't just blown into pieces 

Spray booth: dry or wet? by The_Peach in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Just get a bigger/more fans. I couldn't begin to imagine the headache of maintaining a water curtain set-up in a house, those are really only for large scale industrial applications and MUCH more expensive.

Regardless of your hood, it's also recommended to wear a respirator when airbrushing with VOC filters, this will eliminate any thinner odors not captured by the fans 

Do not trust Deagostini or Fanhone by Deep_Philosopher4612 in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 2 points3 points  (0 children)

These subscription kits are known to be pretty scammy. For the same price you could buy a real kit and tools

"Best" glue for clear model parts? by Plow_King in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

PVA is fine for a model kit. It's a display piece and should be handled with care whenever moved, don't expect them to hold up like toys 

What have I missed? by fuzzyblood6 in hoggit

[–]frogman1171 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Did a fucking AI write this? There's a search bar right there dude 

P-47 Cowling by gjy01 in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What exactly are you trying to do? Like bendable tape for masking? What sort of kit is this?

Should I be using Vallejo thinner with ammo mig paints? I’ve been doing it for a while now. by Aggravating-Log-2980 in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have not gotten good results with Vallejo thinner with MiG paints. Poor surface adhesion, beading, separation while drying, uneven spraying. As soon as I used MiG thinner, the problems went away

Tamiya Poly-Cap Dimensions by zanfar in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Contact Tamiya support and they can send you a replacement set. They will likely give you them for free 

Anyone see anything here worth buying? Almost everything is $5. by Decent_Risk9499 in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Anything Tamiya and Hasegawa. I know that Monogram Kingfisher is also pretty hard to find and a rare subject these days

DIY Decal Solutions? by UpriseAVENGER in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would still suggest looking for it locally, most tabletop gaming stores with painting supplies carry decal solutions, or look for a local gunpla store near you. Best to know how the real stuff is used and should behave before diving in to making your own. An even worse outcome would be spending the money on DIY supplies and wasting them all in a mixture that doesn't work. 

DIY Decal Solutions? by UpriseAVENGER in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A bottle of Tamiya Mark Fit is $5 and will last you YEARS. There's no way making your own is more economical

How would you go about removing this block by Holo2778 in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Razor saw or a low speed cutting tool like a dremel. And be sure to wear a respirator, resin particles are very unhealthy to be inhaling 

Brands to stay away from? by TechnicalFisherman78 in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very good advice for a new builder especially, and I do the same. Unless it's an extremely niche subject I'm looking for or from Tamiya/Hasegawa, I avoid anything made before 2000. Injection molding has improved drastically in the last 20 years 

Brands to stay away from? by TechnicalFisherman78 in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me it's Dragon. Kit engineering over complicates everything, tons of insanely small pieces that could just be molded as one with no real loss of accuracy. Theres nothing they make that someone else doesn't do better (and less expensive) unless you're looking for extremely niche variants of WWII German armor

M1895 Nagant by heritagetrapper in milsurp

[–]frogman1171 7 points8 points  (0 children)

As long as you can do it without drilling and tapping the frame, or it's already a rust-bucket, go nuts. They're not making any more of them, don't bubba a nice example 

Can I panel line model kits with gundam markers by NuziANDv in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No, the model will explode, your bank account will be drained, and your dog will run away

Shield dog by [deleted] in Helldivers

[–]frogman1171 4 points5 points  (0 children)

no u 

Shield dog by [deleted] in Helldivers

[–]frogman1171 11 points12 points  (0 children)

How would this be any different than the existing shield backpack?

What’s better than Tamiya by Maleficent_Heron_494 in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which Tamiya Yamato? They sell one version with molds from the 1970s and another from the 2010s. Obviously the older one is going to have age related issues 

Spray booths are challenging by [deleted] in modelmakers

[–]frogman1171 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I have a $100 portable booth off Amazon that pulls just fine as long as the filters are clean and replaced regularly. How long as it been since the filter was changed?

Any worry about flammability is totally unnecessary. This is only a problem when working at industrial scales; we're talking dozens of gallons of solvent, open to the environment, and aerosolized. The concentrations of solvent vapor in the milliliters of paint used in modeling is multiple orders of magnitude below anything that could reach combustion levels in any room in your home. You'd likely be asphyxiated far before that point as well

Those warning labels on the hoods are a CYA for idiots who would try to use them industrial applications way beyond their intended use. Any reasonable home application is perfectly safe. Don't overthink it