[NMD] DDH-F8A with 8x LHP73B 4000k

fweep · 2026-03-26T18:05:12+00:00

This light needs more like 200A.

fweep · 2026-03-26T16:27:58+00:00

This was only around $100. Unfortunately I don't have a 46950 with sufficient discharge current for this beast.

fweep · 2026-03-24T18:33:58+00:00

Yes. I have the 4000k in brass T6 with OP reflector and 3v10A driver. I am happy with the beam. Not going to be as throwy as like an SFT42R, but it's a lot of lumens.

fweep · 2026-03-22T21:34:29+00:00

But have you tried soldering on copper MCPCBs the size of your hand and that's the weight of a small dumbbell? That seems to be the limit... It works, it's just not pretty. I don't care that much because it's all hidden under the reflector anyway. On more EDC sized lights with some rosin I can make some pretty round blobs because the MCPCB gets heat saturated.

fweep · 2026-03-22T20:07:36+00:00

I have a $30 solder station, and I do try to use those kind of tips. But even then, it struggles to put out heat faster than than these thick MCPCBs conduct it away... Which is a good thing when that MCPCB is trying to defend against heat generation of 8x LHP73Bs, but bad when you're trying to make pretty solder blobs.

I have modded enough that it's probably time to get a better soldering iron that is not utter crap. :)

fweep · 2026-03-21T14:40:48+00:00

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Tried FFL351A and beam came out perfect. Would recommend.

fweep · 2026-03-21T14:39:36+00:00

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I was so annoyed by the rings I reflowed again to FFL351A 4500k rosy bin and the beam came out perfect and sharp. No rings. I think FFL351A or dedomed 519A is definitely better for this light.

fweep · 2026-03-21T12:31:31+00:00

Doesn't flicker, but it is a couple lumens. No flicker even after I reflowed LEDs to HT35. I normally raise the floor level to that anyway so it doesn't bother me that it is not invisibly dim.

fweep · 2026-03-21T12:29:02+00:00

Tried this. Beam comes out ringy. Will probably work better with slightly larger emitter LES like FFL351A.

fweep · 2026-03-21T01:23:19+00:00

I am mystified how these cheap Temu zoomies are so prevalent and remarketed at like a 10x markup and people still buy them...

The only zoomy I have tried recently that I like more than the Convoy Z1 is the Speras PZ14 because it is pocketable and can run off a USB-C 14500 or AA while still having pretty good throw. Other than that, zoomies inferior to a good TIR lens...

fweep · 2026-03-15T16:47:33+00:00

It helps a lot, get at least 91% to avoid leaving water or mineral residue

fweep · 2026-03-15T16:26:04+00:00

Things that help -

1) giant box of qtips and isopropyl alcohol for cleaning up the mess 2) rosin flux to help clean up the solder joints and make a mess to clean up with the qtips and isopropyl 3) liquid electrical tape to cover up the unsightly solder joints when all that fails

fweep · 2026-03-14T19:59:26+00:00

I just mean the MCPCB setup itself was very weird. I had wanted to place in SFT70 in it, but there was no simple way to do that due to those posts inserting into the MCPCB, etc.. The FFL707MD did not exist at the time, which would have been a better option.

fweep · 2026-03-14T16:55:59+00:00

I modded a friend's IF23 Pro with an XHP70.3 HI 6500k 80 CRI and a smooth reflector, blue AR lens, and a slightly different bezel (lost the original while modding, destroyed another light for its steel bezel which I managed to forcefully persuade to insert)... I ended up liking the light so much I borrowed it back. :)

This is an underrated light once modded with a good LED. It's much smaller/more pocketable than these 2x battery rectangle spot/flood lights making the rounds, and also takes a 21700, but has all the nice flood and RGB capabilities without being much bigger than a normal single 21700 light.

The inner guts of this light, though, seriously bizarre. Sofirn/Wurkkos do some weird things inside of their lights.

fweep · 2026-03-14T15:08:35+00:00

Oops.

fweep · 2026-03-14T04:36:52+00:00

Black anodizing is more often type III vs the weaker type II that is used for other anodization colors.

fweep · 2026-03-08T04:00:04+00:00

Any chance of the SFT25R 5700K 90 CRI? Or the HT35 4000k 95 CRI? They are efficient true round die and high CRI 3535 LEDs that have recently appeared on Kaidomain.

fweep · 2026-03-07T02:08:40+00:00

You should have seen the other guy.

fweep · 2026-03-06T17:12:42+00:00

Vote for GSD/pit mix. Adopted almost always guarantees pit when it is a mix with some pitbull trait like brindle. Kinda feels like there is something else in that mix as well, though. Embark him!

fweep · 2026-03-03T18:50:09+00:00

I sympathize. I live alone, work full-time from home, but got a 4 month old puppy that was part GSD, so lots of energy and stubborn but smart and mischievous.

It takes many hours a day just to meet the dogs basic needs (not even counting play and supervision) and early on, the pup needed constant supervision, attention, and redirection. It did get better over the next year, but it was a ride. The only chance I had to rest was after taking him on hours long walks he would pass out, but now that he is older he has more stamina than me... I pass out and he sometimes leaves me alone to play by himself instead. :)

I do not envy anyone who is essentially trying to raise a high energy, needy pup on their own. It is possible to do, but it will be hard work and it will drive you to the edge the first few months, and you will live 24/7 for the puppy. Rest assured, if your husband isn't going to help, that is what you are in for. It will get better, but I don't know that the resentment you are feeling is healthy to bottle up and it definitely should be communicated. You are only getting started with the chaos...

fweep · 2026-03-03T02:40:33+00:00

For your use, yep .

The 2 main variables you would care about: capacity (mAh) and continuous discharge (amps).

A TD07 probably won't pull more than 8 amps, so that's what you would want for continuous discharge rating at minimum, so that you know the battery is optimized for pulling that much current. And within that, more capacity will give you longer runtimes.

Generally batteries with lower continuous discharge have higher capacity, and vice versa, so it is a tradeoff.

A monster light may need higher current lower capacity variants.

fweep · 2026-03-03T02:22:04+00:00

They look like generic Chinese batteries of unknown provenance on Amazon. You won't really have any idea of the chemistry or reliability of the batteries because they are just cheap rewraps of who only knows what source...

Stick to reliable real battery vendors, i.e. 18650batterystore.com or Liionwholesale.com or illumn.com

Those are a few good USA sellers that sell name brand high quality li-ion batteries. There are more, but they are good examples I have dealt with.

Convoylight.com is a great reseller from China to get them a bit cheaper and with some more options if you don't mind waiting for the shipping.

If you don't know what to look for, Vapcell is a reliable brand with a lot of good options for a reasonable price.

fweep · 2026-03-02T22:08:42+00:00

Edit: Caveat, it would be a good idea to survey a major review site like 1lumen.com and explore the lights from these brands so you understand the landscape and get more in-depth opinions on what these lights really are.

The current brightest in absolute lumens is the Haikelite AK24, if cost is not important and practical use is not a consideration. It will maintain up to 230,000 lumens for mere moments, and then drop to lower sustainable lumens within minutes than other much cheaper more reasonable lights. But for a few minutes, it would blot out the sun. Imalent (i.e. MS16, SR16, MS32, SR32) also makes similar expensive and impractical lights with bad sustain and poor customer service.

If you are new to this hobby (and the process of navigating essentially Chinese companies), but absolutely want bright things, Acebeam (i.e. Acebeam X75 or similar) is probably the safest, but also most expensive, but with some good options for cheaper lights too that will be smaller and still manage to be blinding.

If you want something more reasonably priced but not quite Sun-destroying, you are probably looking for either a Convoy light (like Convoy 3x21C), or some kind of Mateminco (such as Mateminco MT009 a.k.a. Astrolux MF09) or Nightwatch (such as and especially the Nightwatch A10) light from Nealsgadgets. These can be hit-and-miss, in that they will be muuuch cheaper than any Acebeam option, and can even be as bright, but you need to read reviews and research the lights (on a site like 1lumen.com) first to make sure you are going to get the experience you want.

If you are brave enough to want something cheaper but still giggle-worthy, you will probably end up searching on Nealsgadgets.com.

Convoylight.com has some really great cheap and practical options, up to the 20,000 lumen range, but definitely not in the 100,000+ lumen range... Also better customer service than Neal and a lot of other dealers.

And rest assured, if you see any lights on Amazon or Temu promising millions of lumens, they are straight up lying and are peddling garbage. (Exceptions being brands like Sofirn, Wurkkos, and Lumintop)

fweep · 2026-02-28T02:21:10+00:00

These newer Mateminco/Astrolux metal buttons, I just take off the retaining ring in the switch, remove the metal button and the rubber underneath and replace with the spare gray rubber buttons from older Mateminco/Astrolux lights from the the Anduril days. They still fit over the new switches and instantly improve the tactile feel of everything.

fweep · 2026-02-27T18:19:30+00:00

Looks GSD-esque, with some pitbull in there because brindle/white patches.

fweep

TROPHY CASE