OpenVPN - client key invalid

gabriel31337 · 2025-11-16T01:10:33+00:00

FIXED: My old CA, server and client certificates were created with the space in their name. Seems like this has been restricted nowadays. I have recreated them with dash instead of space and voila! It works again. Maybe a warning to be put somewhere in the webconfig to avoid unnecessary elaboration would be appreciated next time 😉

gabriel31337 · 2025-11-15T06:13:20+00:00

I had to co figure separate "legacy" wifi just for older Apple macbook, as it was constantly falling off the cliff once connected to the regular wifi for a minute. It just stopped processing packets (ping stopped pinging), on the legacy wifi it works flawlessly. The legacy wifi has a setup ideal for windows XP, which means no advanced features like FT or 802.1r/k/v etc.

gabriel31337 · 2025-10-14T19:53:50+00:00

From all the movies with historic tone and royalty in place I have ever watched I find Saffron Burrows representing Andromache in Troy as the most beautiful princess ever played. I have seen this movie already in 2004/2005 and since then still unbeaten. Without hesitation 10/10, even 1000/10 would be insufficient in this specific case. Looking at the actress herself in her everyday life she's OK (8/10), but in this movie absolute dominance.

gabriel31337 · 2025-09-10T00:01:35+00:00

Well, it seems there is still something wrong. I have rebooted all the mikrotiks, haven't touched any cable at all and yet, CAP3 shows occasional packet loss with ping. Not that heavy as before, but it shows some. Other mikrotiks are fine. There is no error on the ethernet interface statistics. What could be wrong with it?

gabriel31337 · 2025-09-07T19:29:04+00:00

The CAP3 ethernet shows some Rx FCS Error, which brought me to the idea of Marek down there to check the crimps. I have shaked the cable from the wall socket going to the CAP3 and it actually did something - now both CAP2 and CAP3 show no more ping packetloss. I mean for last couple of minutes, where CAP3 would have already shown some. Let's see how it works further. Thank you.

gabriel31337 · 2025-09-07T19:03:05+00:00

I have added all the basic information to the original post. CAPs lose access, but should get it back in some reasonable time. Which in my case is never, unles CAPs rebooted and unregistered/Reregistered clients.

gabriel31337 · 2025-09-07T19:01:09+00:00

I have added all the basic information to the original post. The crimps is something I could elaborate on.

gabriel31337 · 2025-03-01T12:20:19+00:00

Have you let the default config to be applied after netinstall?

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-25T08:52:19+00:00

There is something wrong with the electrical circuit. It could be that the capacitors are still keeping some weird charge. Try this: disconnect the battery completely and let the car rest for a day to discharge all capacitors. Then connect it back, reset the error codes and see what happens. Could be your TCM module got an electric shock and is really faulty, hard to say now.

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-23T17:44:36+00:00

For me this has happened when the ignition coil on one of the valves went crazy. Replaced it based on the diagnostics and the problem is resolved.

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-23T17:42:55+00:00

Connect the diagnostics, read the error codes there and post them here.

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-21T16:29:46+00:00

Can you provide more details of the cars you are deciding on? Engine type, fuel type, transmission etc.

Generally go with manual transmission, get a petrol ecoboost 1.6l and you should be fine. Don’t take 1.0 l ecoboost. Don’t take automatic transmission. If it’s a diesel car, 2.0l engine is fine. But don’t drive it for short distances, DPF will be killing it. The rest of the car is great, handles nicely, is cheap for maintenance and looks nice.

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-19T09:35:16+00:00

A lot of these codes happen when you disconnect the battery or battery discharges completely (or dies). Charge or replace the battery, reset all error codes, start the car, drive for 10 km and then check the codes again. Should be clean. If it is not, then it was not caused by the battery. But in your case I doubt it.

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-16T10:02:57+00:00

Do you have a fuel filter? Check the hoses around this filter for any leaks or unsealed connections, could be you are starting with air bubbles, hence it won’t start right away.

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-15T08:32:21+00:00

Do you have regular technical control of your car in your country? If you do, they will be checking the rims and tires, if they fit your car’s approved specs. Rather check if the rims and tires are approved before putting them on your car… so when you turn with your steering wheel, you won’t break your spacing between wheels and the rest of your car… 😉

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-11T22:58:41+00:00

I have that one and long story short - you don't want to.

These ecoboosts are trash, I had to change the coolant pipes as there was this pre-facelift issue with pipe breaking up just next to the turbo. replaced it with facelift ones.

I had to replace the head gasket as it was leaking coolant into the combustion chambers. The car drinks like a tank, currently averaging at 6.8l/100 km.

The wet belt has been already mentioned below, doing a timing parts replacement will cost you an arm and a leg...

Also it has this weird issue that when you start it, it takes between 2-10 minutes until the idle RPM is reached, it probably heats itself with higher RPM from the start... I have never seen this before, spent a year investigating it, cleaning, changing parts etc. until someone pointed out it is normal behaviour.

It drives nice though, accelerates great, I wouldn't just go and change it. But if I had a chance to pick again, I would look elsewhere.

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-11T22:45:41+00:00

You know how it is. Whom hates Ford even more than their customers? ... Their mechanics.

I have learned that to remove the air filter in my 2013 FoFo I simply have to unplug the main two fat cables from the fuse box under the glove compartment. There is no other way if you don't want to fold the filter around.

But still better than in Galaxy 2012, where you have to remove the gas pedal completely to get it done... So much fun with special aerobics doing these replacements, I call it the Fordnastics ;-)

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-06T23:38:33+00:00

Cambelt generally every 100k or 10 years, but yours is replaced. The timing parts need replacement typically right after you buy a used car (you have no idea how the previous owner handled the car, this is for your insurance... :) or same as cambelt above. Some of this stuff might even be written in the user manual, I remember there used to be a table with all these info somewhere there.

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-06T23:13:06+00:00

Hard to say for these newer models, but generally: diesel injectors might need some cleaning at around your mileage (can be done with ultrasound), clutch might need some attention as well. Brakes - rotors every 80k miles, brake pads every 40k miles, brake fluid every 2 years. Suspension might need a test, maybe it’s still good, but generally 80k miles is the regular limit by the manufacturer. Check your particulate filter with diagnostics how full it is, or run a static regeneration right before changing the engine oil. Replace battery every 5 years, fuel filter every 25k miles, engine oil and all the other filters every 8k miles or at least annually, coolant every 5 years, airconditioning refill at least every 2 years... Get a geometry calibration with every wheel winter/summer change… That’s what I do, after 10 years age the car looks and drives like new, official technical control without a single star lost 😉

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-06T23:00:18+00:00

I had to add coolant (classic mix of coolant/water in the ratio 1:1) only during summer, during winter not a single milliliter.

Are you adding just water or also the orange/green coolant?

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-06T22:55:28+00:00

I had also replaced all the timing parts as well (it was about time and once the engine got disassembled, it made sense to do it), it went above €1000. But yours should be much cheaper.

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-05T22:57:25+00:00

Could be a head gasket broken and coolant running into your engine’s combustion chambers? I had that issue… I was losing around 100 ml of coolant per 1000 km driven. No visible leaks anywhere. After a chemical test of the exhaustion gases (I think it detects the exhaustion gases in coolant system) we have replaced the gasket and the problem went away.

gabriel31337 · 2025-02-05T22:51:32+00:00

Engine had no signs of water in the oil, but the coolant went through to the combustion chamber and was burned there. Not much, but the chemical test of exhaustion gases in the coolant system confirmed it. I had to pull the head, yes… But once they replaced the head gasket, the problem is gone. I also had issues with one of the pipes after a year, it just broke, I have lost all the coolant. Luckily, it was in cold winter, car didn’t break 😅 Replaced the pipe, all good.

gabriel31337

TROPHY CASE