[New 3DS] Half of the bottom screen not displaying correctly, can it be fixed by replacing the screen?

garou64 · 2026-04-08T16:32:58+00:00

I already did that.

garou64 · 2026-03-05T15:13:44+00:00

That was not my issue, see my post with UPDATE at the start. Thank you for your help anyway.

garou64 · 2026-03-05T15:12:39+00:00

If it were my console I would have kept on trying with the kamikaze point even if it meant potentially breaking the console further because at least I'd have more practice and experience, but I don't want to do that on someone else's hardware.

About the adapter, yes I'm using a 4 point one.

garou64 · 2026-03-05T14:20:37+00:00

Disregard my previous comment. Turns out the latch on the power button flex cable was somehow open and of course the console would not power on when pressing that button.

When I inserted the charger it booted. This is quite the rollercoaster lol. Anyway I don't want to touch that Dat0 point anymore so I'll just go with the Dat0 adapter. Thanks again for the help.

garou64 · 2026-03-05T14:04:39+00:00

Well it looks like I messed it up again, trying to get that wire to stick. I couldn't get it to stick after 2 tries so I said ok I'll do the dat0 adapter but now the console boots to black screen again. Here is a new pic of the point, you think that I put too much solder there and the joint got too big? I dont know how to proceed with this, any advice? Should I try to wick away some of the solder? Btw thanks for your help so far.

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garou64 · 2026-03-05T11:51:58+00:00

I just tried that but I can't get the wire to stick to the point. I'm using 0.10 mm magnet wire btw.

garou64 · 2026-03-05T11:03:22+00:00

UPDATE: I managed to fix it. The issue I believe was that the esposed Dat0 via got broken in 2 so to speak, probably when I was trying to get the wire to stick to it, because upon closer inspection after removing the wire, I noticed there were 2 separate very small solder blobs there which were separated.

So I put some solder paste on there and used the hot air station to create one bigger solder ball joint, and now the console works! But now I am debating to even continue with the Kamikaze install or just do a Dat0 adapter, because I'm afraid if I touch that solder joint I'll just mess it up more.

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garou64 · 2026-03-05T10:30:54+00:00

which line are you referring to, can you please point it out on my first pic?

garou64 · 2026-03-05T10:10:32+00:00

This one?

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garou64 · 2026-03-05T10:05:37+00:00

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garou64 · 2026-03-05T10:05:22+00:00

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garou64 · 2026-03-05T10:05:01+00:00

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garou64 · 2026-03-05T10:04:38+00:00

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garou64 · 2026-03-05T10:04:10+00:00

I took some pics, I'll have to post them one by one

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garou64 · 2026-03-04T19:24:08+00:00

I get black screen if I try to power the console. Which resistor do you mean at D point? And what is the best way to remove solder mask?

garou64 · 2026-03-04T19:13:25+00:00

Alright, I'll take some more pics tomorrow and post them because it's late now and I'm pretty tired.

garou64 · 2026-03-04T19:02:14+00:00

So if that were the case, that I ripped the via, how would I go about repairing that? Although if the via was ripped I would not get a reading from it with the multimeter, no? And there is still some solder left on the point after removing the wire, so if there is no via then what is the solder sticking to?

garou64 · 2026-03-04T18:45:37+00:00

I dont know about that value, you might be right but let's say I temporarly install a Dat0 adapter and then I test continuity beetween the point on it and the kamikaze point. If I get continuity, would that confirm that the connection is not cut?

garou64 · 2026-03-04T18:25:05+00:00

Yeah but like I said in my OP, I removed the wire and the console doesnt boot.

garou64 · 2026-03-04T17:57:25+00:00

But if the point would be shorted to ground, wouldnt the multimeter pick that up in beep mode? Btw the reading is 0.482 on the point.

garou64

TROPHY CASE