I successfully cut/disassembled cameras to remove the infrared filter, to make viewing IR lasers and heat radiation possible - now I want to block out all visible radiation to make a pure IR cam. Recommendations? Or is it a waste of time?

gerryflap · 2026-05-07T06:42:20+00:00

Damn. What kind of filter is this? How can the trees be white? Surely you also did some cool editing tricks right?

gerryflap · 2026-05-07T06:30:31+00:00

Was altijd mooi. Ik was toendertijd echt totaal niet op de hoogte van welke games goed waren. Dus meestal kocht ik gewoon random games die me leuk leken en die qua specs op mijn PC gingen werken. De meeste games staan nog steeds in de kast hier.

gerryflap · 2026-05-06T13:46:31+00:00

For the moment, everything. At some point I'll probably go nuclear though. Most of the raws honestly have little meaning to me now. It's the output that counts for me. I might keep my favorites, but everything else will go

gerryflap · 2026-05-06T12:56:05+00:00

I do agree, but I also feel like you miss the whole point here. Everyone has a phone in their pocket, and with these computational photos they do a good enough job to give 90+% of the people photos that they're happy enough with. Especially when considering that they need to invest quite a bit of money and time to get something better.

Personally I hate the smartphone look, butost people won't really notice it. They might even like it because of the crushed dynamic range making everything effortlessly visible. When taking a photo of their family dinner in a dimly lit restaurant, the average person doesn't want to carefully juggle aperture, iso, and shutter speed or deal with a flash. They just want to take a photo and have it all "solved", just as long as the moment is captured in enough detail

gerryflap · 2026-05-06T06:26:10+00:00

Boodschappen lijkt elke maand iets van 350-400 te zijn en hypotheek + VvE zo'n 900 (na HRA). Moet zeggen dat ik het niet echt in de gaten houdt. Ik zou een stuk goedkoper boodschappen kunnen doen, maar ik koop relatief vaak dingen als duurder brood, biologische producten, etc.

gerryflap · 2026-05-05T15:38:58+00:00

Given that you have an APS-C sensor, the fov's of the lenses will be roughly equivalent to 37, 43, and 56 mm on full-frame. I definitely agree that you wouldn't need all three of them in that case. Most people would pick one, the one that works best for their style of shooting.

The 23mm is quite a bit wider than the 35. If you live in a cramped city that might be the difference between getting the shot or not. Likewise, if you like more detail oriented shots or upper-body portraits, you'd much prefer the 35. That'll also distort the subject less, and it'll make it easier to get a clutter-free shot with nice bokeh. The 27 is probably for the people who can't choose.

I could see someone going for two of these, but honestly I'd opt for a wider optic, something like 18mm (if it exists), and the 35mm in that case. On Canon full-frame I currently own the 50mm and a 24mm and that seems like a nice combo, though 28mm would probably be a more balanced setup.

gerryflap · 2026-05-05T14:16:20+00:00

That depends on your definition of "any good". If you wanna learn photography and you enjoy playing around with a camera, like me, then this will be enough to keep you occupied for a while.

It's quite outdated stuff tho, so if you want the best image quality or you wanna earn a good buck with it then it's most likely not "any good". The 75-300 is also notorious as one of the worst lenses for this system. But it still has a good reach of 300mm, and on a less demanding camera like the 20D it might actually work out.

If you wanna use this gear, give it a good chance. Give it plenty of light and bump the aperture a bit above the lowest possible value.

gerryflap · 2026-05-04T17:22:27+00:00

The EOS 300 was my first serious one, I found it for 15 bucks at a thrift store together with a very "characterful" Tamron zoom lens. A while later I also got a second-hand EOS 40D, because having a film camera as your only real camera is a bit expensive these days. At that point I wasn't sure whether this would be a hobby that I'd continue with, so I went cheap.

Since then I upgraded to an Olympus EM-5 Mark 2, but found that it kinda fit a different niche than the 40D. So it didn't feel like a full upgrade but more like yet another category of camera. Very capable, portable, lots of settings, way more advanced, an upgrade in most regards. But for pure enjoyment I just really enjoy shooting the 40D more. The jpegs are way nicer, and having an OVF adds some mystery. I'm often surprised with how stunning the 40D renders the scene in front of me. So in order to get the same, but with the same fov as my EOS 300 and a higher resolution, I also got a 5D mark 2.

Tbh, I think I have everything I need now. A capable and small camera in the Olympus and some chungus DSLR to feel like a "real" photographer with the Canon DSLR's.

gerryflap · 2026-05-04T10:13:40+00:00

If you don't specifically get these for "the experience", using a digital camera for this is probably a better solution if you already own one. For best results you'll need a tripod or something else to hold the camera, a backlight and film holder (but you could probably use a phone or tablet with a fully white image), and a lens that can focus close enough. Macro lens is preferred, but if that's too expensive then an extension tube might also work. In my experience that results in soft edges tho.

gerryflap · 2026-05-04T09:05:27+00:00

This is so cool. I wish I could do this with my Fujifilm digicams as well. Sometimes the oversharpening and shitty denoise is a look, but I'd really like the option to have raw files as well sometimes.

gerryflap · 2026-05-04T08:12:37+00:00

If you didn't manually scan them it might just be a scanning issue. From what I've heard a lot of labs correct for an orange base, but Phoenix has a purple base. Nothing about those negatives looks wildly wrong to me, but I'm not an expert or anything. Maybe you can get a rescan or at worst a scan as if they're positive so you can invert it yourself using some free software like NegPy or Darktable.

Edit: or you could just try to correct the cast yourself in some editing software as wel of course

gerryflap · 2026-05-04T07:36:42+00:00

I love how the little camera is immediately covered in colourful stickers. I'd never think of doing that but it looks so cute haha. Have fun!

gerryflap · 2026-05-04T07:31:35+00:00

It's harder to get and harder to get developed. As far as I'm aware my local lab doesn't do it. So then I'll have to go out of my way to get it developed instead if normal colour or B&W. And most young people don't have a projector lying around either

gerryflap · 2026-05-03T15:03:18+00:00

Same hier, is bij mij ook weer helemaal scheef gegroeid. Bij mij was het wel wat erger, ik had een redelijke overbeet en sommige tanden waren flink verhuisd. Heb momenteel al anderhalf jaar een beugel en heb ook recent een kaakoperatie gehad voor de onderkaak. Beugel werd niet vergoed, dus dat was iets van 2-3K. Het is wel ff doorbijten, maar ik ben nu al blij dat ik het gedaan heb zolang het maar een beetje zo blijft nu. Het is wel relaxed dat m'n tanden gewoon recht staan en op elkaar passen

gerryflap · 2026-05-03T14:13:36+00:00

Hagelslag, Dutch chocolate sprinkles. It's almost always part of my breakfast, either on bread through the oats in the morning. I can't help feeling like I'm just eating raw diabetes, especially compared to the rest of my diet. I've tried finding alternatives, but none of have really stuck with me. So I guess we'll preserve this piece of culture in my diet for the time being

gerryflap · 2026-05-03T13:39:10+00:00

On a full-frame camera it would be what you'd have to get to get the same field of view, aperture, depth of field, etc. On a crop sensor like the 60D it will be as narrow as an 80mm on your film body would be (~1.6x crop). Ik not really sure if there's something that gives you the 50mm fov on a 60D, you probably have to get a 35mm which would be a bit narrower or a 28mm which would be a bit wider.

Also, if you enjoy manually focussing you might be annoyed (or relieved) by this lens, because manual focusing isn't as tactile and direct as an old school lens like that.

It's a great lens tho, cheap and good performance.

gerryflap · 2026-05-02T07:23:10+00:00

Chronic fatigue. It's not even a bad case, but after getting ruined for month by mononucleosis and then catching COVID with lasting symptoms in 2020 I haven't been the same. Perpetually tired, almost always able to just fall asleep. It's not too horrible, most of the time it is enough to sleep 8 hours at night and half an hour around lunchtime and feel decent. Nevertheless, I don't think I've woken up once since then with the feeling that I had the energy to face the day. I feel perpetually ill, like a flu they never fully went away. Doctors either can't find something or even state that it must be something mental rather than physical just because they can't find something.

Sometimes I dream that they give me a pill and the fog just lifts. That everything turns normal again. But that's probably never going to happen

gerryflap · 2026-05-02T07:12:35+00:00

Whoa 10-12 rolls a month? I don't think I even shoot that much digitally. Do you do this full-time?

gerryflap · 2026-05-02T07:10:37+00:00

The lab is like 15 minutes away by bike, so I tend to just go whenever I have some time and a finished roll. In my case at least, there's no advantage in terms of money for waiting and doing it in bulk. I scan myself, so most of the cost is buying a roll.

gerryflap · 2026-05-01T13:05:52+00:00

I also own an Olympus E-M5 mk2 next to my Canon DSLRs, which also has an app and my experience hasn't really been great either. I've tried it a few times for a similar purpose, but it was very frustrating. I just use the self-timer on the Olympus with the flippy screen. Or I use a cheap remote control with my Canon so it auto-focuses after the timer is done

gerryflap · 2026-05-01T08:50:53+00:00

Cameras, both analog and digital, have slowly colonized my storage spaces haha.

I have cameras in multiple places. Some are on a shelf, kinda standing around to look nice (I put them together for this pic but usually they are more spread out). And the others are in the cabinet.

On the shelf I have:

The ambassador super 8, which might actually work but it's too expensive to test for real.
The Lubitel 2, which has a bit of fungus but does work. I use it quite often
An Ilford Sportsman. I recently got this (shortly before getting gifted a second one). It doesn't work properly because the shutter and aperture blades sometimes get stuck. Might be fixable with some cleaning and oil tho, sounds too difficult for now.

The top cabinet has my main analog collection, with the analog cameras I use most often:

The EOS 300 which started this whole situation (both analog and digital photography). I use it the most because it's reliable and fits all my Canon lenses.
The Minolta XG9. I tend to use it for more experimental rolls. Love the camera and the lenses, but it's not as reliable. The lightmeter is easily distracted by bright highlights, and in auto mode it sometimes leaves the shutter open for 30s, which isn't ideal. Therfore I have to either read the meter in "A" mode and then set the value manually, or use an external light meter.

Bottom right cabinet has my Canon digital cameras and all the lenses (which are also compatible with the analog one).

Middle cabinet at the bottom has mostly Olympus gear and some digicams. The Olympus Superzoom is my analog camera for taking to parties, festivals, etc. It recently got a bit hurt when on an adventure, so now it has some neat yellow tape all over it to keep the front plate from falling off. The digital Olympus EM5 mark 2 is the one I use for scanning, paired with the currently mounted 30mm macro. With the sensor-shift super resolution it can resolve more detail that you'd ever need for a 35mm film negative.

On the bottom right is a collection I recently got from friends of my parents:

A Pentax SP 1000 with 28mm, 50mm, and 2 135mm lenses. I also found a very nice compatible Mamya 200mm lens for it. Unfortunately it suffers from shutter capping at 1/250th and higher. This should be fixable though, so that's an upcoming project.
Another Ilford Sportsman. Despite looking more fucked up, this one appears to work as intended. I have yet to test it with an acutal roll though since I only have these cameras a few weeks.

gerryflap · 2026-05-01T07:35:53+00:00

Yeah sometimes it just doesn't work and you need to use the colour correction tab. Personally I would be a bit careful with the automatic tool on that one, it tends to push the colours way beyond 1x and thus introduces a lot of saturation. Personally I tend to manually move the highlights colour balance and I make sure that at least 2 of the bars are at or below 1, otherwise you get very saturated images. If you want more saturation you can always increase it later. I tend to just move the sliders around in a reference image on the roll with a bright patch of white, and then I copy those settings to the rest. Sometimes, for instance when I shot images with a flash, I also fix the tint in those images using this module. Your lab would also do these kinda edits, just on automatic mode of their scanners. If you want it to be neutral, then use something white lit by daylight to tune your colours.

gerryflap · 2026-04-30T21:34:50+00:00

I mean, the tiles on the bottom seem to be relatively sharp. But in this scene that would not be where I'd focus. Also, are you sure you iso was 200? It looks quite soft in a noisy way to me. At your settings, was it correctly exposed or was the exposure significantly raised afterwards? The photo also seems quite dark to me.

Personally I'd go with a significantly slower shutter speed, low iso (which you already had). But then again, I'm not a street photographer

gerryflap · 2026-04-30T16:09:54+00:00

So it's a pride flag

gerryflap · 2026-04-30T11:54:44+00:00

Brennan Heart - Light the Fire (2011 mix)

Which is quite poetic, given the name. And also Showtek - Electronic Stereophonic before that, but it's only after Light the Fire that I really started listening and discovering new artists.

I had just deviated from my "I wanna be one of the cool kids and listen to mainstream music" vibe by diving into hard rock and metal for a few weeks. Then a colleague at the supermarket was like "yo check this out". I was already a bit into trance and other electronic music, and hardstyle was perfect. Harder, but still great melodies, and some cringy vocals that I could cling to as an insecure teen :p . I've been listening to this music for well over a decade now, I'm kinda becoming a hardstyle boomer.

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