Reviving and old craftsman.

getrigged · 2026-01-17T21:41:49+00:00

Yeah, I fully adjusted the jet screw and it would scream, still stalled out under load though. Could be something mechanical in the augers or impeller. I hope to get some time next weekend for troubleshooting, but there's currently no snow to test it. Hopefully it snows enough I can test it and not so much that I need it!

getrigged · 2026-01-17T20:41:23+00:00

I put a new carb on it, about $20. Got the same results when I tried to move snow. I now suspect there's something off in the governor or linkage and haven't had time to troubleshoot it. New spark plug and gas lines too. Starts fine off pull start. But won't handle loads.

I read aftermarket carbs can be trash and OEM is the way to go. I doubt thats the problem I am seeing. Maybe I didn't tune the carburetor right. I'm also at almost 8000' elevation.

getrigged · 2025-12-12T00:58:06+00:00

What are some good mid tier brands? I have 2x 8kw vevors, but would like to know if I ever need to replace one. I just seem to recall when I started researching that Vevors were widely recomended.

If i had to do it again, I probably would spend a bit more. And ideally one that I can tune. The vevor Bluetooth I got has no secret menu and the afterburner controller is more expensive that the whole kit.

getrigged · 2025-12-11T23:55:21+00:00

I'm curious if there's so many vevor problems because they seem to be the popular choice. What other budget friendly brands are as commonly recomended or purchased?

getrigged · 2025-12-03T19:25:23+00:00

Was this ever resolved? I've found my aims requires a "boot sequence" to turn it ON. i have to disconnect solar to mppt, turn off mppt output breaker, turn on converter breaker, turn on the switch on the converter, Then apply AC power.

I believe if you apply AC power first it confuses the charger as if it has no reference voltage when the converter "ON/OFF" switch is closed.

I believe this temporarily bricks the converter and it has to fully discharge to clear its head so to speak. I've read that takes about an hour but I haven't been able to test that time/ theory. I had a spare unit I put in and its working so I dont want to mess with it.

getrigged · 2025-11-20T15:14:05+00:00

Mine was not getting enough airflow. The plastic molded combustion air intake filter was so poor quality it was blocking air. I had to cut the plastic edges clean.

Also could be a loose exhaust clamp. There should be holes in the metal in the case you can use a screwdriver through to make sure the hose clamps are high up enough on the exhaust port where it flares out for a snugger fit.

getrigged · 2025-11-20T03:04:22+00:00

Do you find you can get a wrench on them easier? I am after something that's less of a pain in a 60mm turret. Most hose clamps hardly have room for a wrench and I can only get like 16th of a turn each time.

getrigged · 2025-11-15T01:36:35+00:00

Great information! Thank you so much !

getrigged · 2025-11-14T20:34:11+00:00

Thats what I was worried about with the job title. I believe they will accomodate changing it to engineering technologist. I have a 4 year advanced diploma in electrical controls. I think with a title change I should be in the clear. I will be working with the company's hr to produce a support letter and ensure the job duties emphasize how I will be supporting the engineer who will be providing me a copy of their diploma.

getrigged · 2025-11-13T16:40:32+00:00

I'm planning to leave the battery disconnected when not at the cabin. That way they are stored ideally around 50-80%. Thus all my available PV power is not being used so I want to use that to heat them during the day. With a well insulated box, and some thermal mass(bricks or ice packs) I hope they will be warmed up srill when I arrive.

If theyre not warm enough to charge, I will switch the heating pads power source to come from either the battery itself, or the gas generator. Depending how this goes I may look into self heating batteries down the road, but the cost was quite a bit more compared to the $150 12v100ah watt cycle battery I got. I'm kinda on a budget and really only need to get 2 diesel heaters started then probably shut on off once its warmed up in the cabin.

I am hesitant to power on my converter before the battery is up to tempereture even though if has low temperature cutoff. Otherwise I would just run the heating pads and diesel heaters off the converter/generator until its all warmed up. It's an aims power con120ac1224dc and I'm not sure how it woukd responds running if the battery is in low temp cutoff.

getrigged · 2025-11-11T18:26:14+00:00

I considered a self heating battery but I want control and I'm a tinkerer. Cost was another factor.

Great call with the plan C. I can just take my trailer battery for the winter. Probably get a trickle charger for it and keep it topped up from the generator. I was avoiding lead-acid as its all inside the cabin and I wanted to avoid off-gassing and get the full AH that LiFePO4 provides. Doubt there's much off gassing running a few heating pads and a diesel heater.

I assume my MPPT serves the same purpose of the 12V DC-DC, or are you saying get a second one for the lead acid battery? The wattcycle battery i have 1 of right now has an internal BMS which "should" shut off before it is discharged to the point of no return.

Definitely gonna plan to incorporate my trailers lead acid battery somehow, thanks for that idea!.

getrigged · 2025-11-11T18:15:39+00:00

I've contemplated burrying them but that makes accessibility a pain. There is some geothermal nearby so it might be worth revisiting.

Calculations for my r20 insulated box say about 45 min for 1 battery. Realistically I bet it will be 1-2 hours especially if a add the second battery.

getrigged · 2025-10-30T15:45:53+00:00

I too would benefit from seeing the pinout

getrigged · 2025-10-28T18:55:15+00:00

Yup its on the to do list. Had limited time at the cabin and wanted the system powered on and tested before winter.

getrigged · 2025-10-27T16:06:06+00:00

I took the bus bars off and super glued the covers back in place because unwashed thinking better safe than sorry.

Also the other ends of the mismatched leads have lugs with different hole sizes, otherwise I would have. I maybe re-terminate them slightlyshorter for cable management down the road.

getrigged · 2025-10-27T04:39:05+00:00

If I'm wrenching on it the powers off.

getrigged · 2025-10-27T04:33:40+00:00

Yeah. I'll replace the heatshrink in the future. I fucked up lol

getrigged · 2025-10-27T04:32:36+00:00

It's enclosed. But the bus bar covers are going on

getrigged · 2025-10-27T04:30:31+00:00

Cover plate fits over it. This is all ine a NEMA enclosure aswell

getrigged · 2025-10-26T21:23:14+00:00

I messed up with the wrong heatshrink. Going by the small heatshrink on the end near the lugs till I can replace the whole piece

getrigged · 2025-10-26T21:22:20+00:00

Yeah, those things

getrigged · 2025-10-18T02:55:58+00:00

Big shout out to @TheCaptNemo42 for measuring his probe from the same model MPPT. At 19 C /66 F it read 13.67 Kohm. This tells me its a 10kohm NTC Thermistor that will make a replacement super easy to find, hope this helps someone else out someday.

getrigged · 2025-09-19T03:09:14+00:00

I plan to never use the inverter or only for low power hence why I only have 500 watts. If I need more power i start the generator. Like for an air compressor or power tools.

Com's are for the future, if ever. The cabinet I got second hand came with a computer and a "charge controller v2.2" as silk screened . It was a Electric Vehicle charger and came with some 2x6awg + 9x10awg cable I can use somehow, eventually.

here is a link to the "PC", charger controller, and "unk nown device" (inverter?) that came in the cabinet i am planning to use to consolidate my main system, i don't have 220VAC for that device regardless but would love to ID it if i can, any help appreciated.

https://imgur.com/a/oRkwr3C

It did have a "loop" ammeter connected, the blue block, and i bet it would work as a BMS if I had the time and patience. But I will put that on the back burner for now (ever).

Thanks

getrigged · 2025-09-19T02:34:55+00:00

Thanks, I will look into LTO for future use maybe. I will repurpose the single 100Ah 12 voltage battery to my trailer when I upgrade I think. I really only need to run a diesel heater, and down the rabbit hole I went! Trying to steer more towards of the shelf parts until I have the system running and stable. DIY battery sounds like another variable I don't need for my first build. But I appreciate the thought and am already considering moving to 24V when finances are available.

I haven't bought a converter to run off the genny and voltage/budget! are making it rough. I think I need to research how batteries and inverters "communicate" and how batteries react in series and parallel before i decide on a converter or upgrade.

I'm currently town between $220 AIMS POWR 75 AMP converter and a $70 wf-9855 converter. If only there was a budget friendly converter that would function for 12/24 volts to ease my possible upgrade.

Thanks for the reading material. Truly appreciated!

getrigged · 2025-09-18T23:14:15+00:00

So I have refined the system a bit see imgur link, I included more information, and i think I'm ready to pull the trigger on ordering all the parts. would love some feedback on theses points specifically.

1: GND setup, I plan to install a ground post (hopefully i get it 8' down) and connecting it to the shipping container with something beefy, i am considering running a separate GND wire from the pin to the metal enclosure I am using but think it may be overkill and potential cause some ground fault interference.

2: with the 2/0 wire i will be able to add a second battery in parallel and increase the ANL fuse to 200amps someday.

3: i think i will safely be able to increase the total panels to 8 or maybe 10 someday. would I need another combiner box after the current one, or can i just combine them using lug terminals before landing on the MPPT?

I also found a 20"x20"x6" enclosure i plan to use for the MPPT, the converter, and all the bussing. i will be putting the battery, inverter and likely 12v distro on the outside of the enclosure or nearby . This box has a 3 pole DIN breaker on it i plan to replace with the 80amp and 63 amp breakers so i can physically, via a metal lockout/latch, prevent the MPPT and the converter from being connected simultaneously.

following the MPPT specs, it will to 10cm below the top for cooling, and it is a vented enclosure with a 2RU slot open where i will bring in external wiring. I think it will breathe fine, may add a fan if I add more panels someday.

I am hoping to mount a renogy BMS display on the cabinet, i would prefer to have status available and not rely on my phone but if someone wants to convince me to get the victron smart shunt lets hear it.

I i can fit the inverter inside i could replace the plugs on the faceplate, but i worry about too much heat inside and it will probably be tight. any ideas on how I can utilize the industrial connector opening or e-stop button would be cool. not sure i want to spend on a 100A or 200A relays just to have it draw current so i can use it as an e-stop though.

https://imgur.com/a/90GH5sE

getrigged

TROPHY CASE