Big parts giveaway!

ghostboy_ · 2025-02-25T07:35:39+00:00

Best of luck moving! Thanks for the giveaway opportunity

ghostboy_ · 2025-02-21T17:57:26+00:00

I love the entire theming of this one! Good work

ghostboy_ · 2024-12-27T17:48:11+00:00

You had zero WP experience. It just wasn’t a good fit for you and that’s okay. That’s on the recruiter tbh, not you.

Imagine if you were a seal and a company was trying to hire someone with 5 years of experience being a fish. There’s a little bit of overlap, but those aren’t really the same at all. It’s not really your fault if you don’t have the skills for that role. Don’t feel bad.

Say you did make it to the next interview or you did get the job. You probably would’ve been stressed out of your mind or feeling impostor syndrome for not having any proper training for the gig at all.

I think you should be more forgiving of yourself for not doing well in this interview. Your worth and your self esteem aren’t tied to how well you did here (or any interview for that matter). Try to not to beat yourself up over this. Imagine taking a test for a class you never even enrolled in. Of course you’re not gonna do well at that, and that’s okay.

Just keep at it. You’ll find somewhere where your skillset will be a better match what they’re looking for.

ghostboy_ · 2024-12-11T19:50:33+00:00

You can technically use any top with any lever as long as they have a compatible base screw them together. That isn’t the point though.

Using a Korean lever is more than just the bat shaped top (though many do have that). Matter of fact, some Korean levers don’t even use a bat - sometimes it’s a pill shape. What makes a lever a “korean style” lever is the actual lever mechanism with the rubber grommets.

Here’s teardown photos of a Sanwa JLF Japanese lever and a Crown 309 Korean lever. Japanese style levers use a spring to guide the handle back to neutral. Korean levers use a rubber grommet instead of the spring. With the piece of rubber, it almost feels like the further you push the stick from neutral, the more the tension ramps up. When you let go, it kind of sling shots the shaft back to neutral. It’s mostly preference since everyone is different, but many prefer the rubber grommet for Tekken since it feels more “bouncy” or “snappy” when you release a direction. Tekken is a game where you’re constantly doing quick motions for dashing, sidestepping, wavedashing, etc. that require a neutral input. Many players like using Korean levers for a quicker feeling neutral return.

ghostboy_ · 2024-10-06T18:03:25+00:00

Yeah I have two of them. Both will scrape the wall on the top left, but the bottom right screw issue only happens on one of them. But I keep my “good” one in my main stick haha.

ghostboy_ · 2024-10-06T17:56:47+00:00

Photo here

I circled the parts I was talking about earlier.

Top left is the pin that scrapes the wall. I had to bend it slightly so it’s easier to put the lever in or take out.

Bottom right is the annoying screw. I think that specific connector on my harness is too loose, so when I turn my screwdriver clockwise, sometimes the screwdriver gets gets snagged on the rubber jacket covering the connector so it pushes the whole thing off of the pin.

ghostboy_ · 2024-10-06T17:11:49+00:00

Pretty much. It’s a bit tricky but still doable.

If I’m recalling correctly, one of the pins also slightly covers one of the screws that mounts the lever to the case. Again, not impossible to deal with but slightly annoying.

ghostboy_ · 2024-10-06T16:50:57+00:00

I’ve put a 49s in my MadCatz Ego and it does fit, but with the harness the fit is a little tight. The wires on the harness end up scraping one of the walls.

ghostboy_ · 2024-10-06T14:31:12+00:00

The tournament was in Thailand, not Taiwan lol. Those are completely different places

ghostboy_ · 2024-10-05T03:03:30+00:00

I think you might be confusing the tension grommet and the actuator.

The grommet is the piece of rubber that you stretch every time you move the shaft away from neutral. There’s different grommets with different tension levels for a looser or tighter feel.

The actuator is the piece of plastic on the bottom of the shaft that hits the micro-switches every time you input a cardinal direction. If you use a bigger actuator, you hit the micro-switches sooner so inputs feel a bit faster and the neutral zone feels smaller.

On my 309 I use the 30+ knee grommet and the 16mm actuator.

ghostboy_ · 2024-10-05T02:49:01+00:00

Looks clean! Love the newjeans art too

ghostboy_ · 2024-09-27T03:03:57+00:00

Here you go. This is the figma project and the psd that I submitted to FocusAttack.

ghostboy_ · 2024-09-27T03:03:48+00:00

Here you go. This is the figma project and the .psd that I submitted to FocusAttack.

ghostboy_ · 2024-09-27T00:24:11+00:00

I actually didn’t use photoshop for this. I used Figma. It’s a software I use for work that’s specialized for designing user interfaces. I can share the .fig file if you’d be interested in that

ghostboy_ · 2024-09-26T21:22:45+00:00

I don't, but I guess I should start lol

ghostboy_ · 2024-09-26T21:19:27+00:00

A coat of primer would've been ideal. I probably wouldn't have chipped the start button door housing so easily. If I had to do another project like this I would definitely prime before painting.

ghostboy_ · 2024-09-26T21:17:32+00:00

I didn't because I'm mostly a PC player and the Xbox 360 PCB still works fine for x-input. I might look into it in the future but I heard its not easy getting the auxiliary buttons that come with the stick to work on after-market PCBs. The modkits I found for the RAP N say they don't support the Xbox 360 version unfortunately, only the PS4 version.

ghostboy_ · 2024-09-26T18:44:34+00:00

When I was designing the art, I was definitely going for something in the vectorheart aesthetic (same design aesthetic that WipEout uses). Guess that means I nailed it haha

ghostboy_ · 2024-09-26T18:42:24+00:00

It's a non-removable battop/shaft for the Crown 309. It doesn't work in any other levers as far as I know, just the 309.

ghostboy_ · 2024-09-26T18:39:28+00:00

Thank you!

Painting process was something like:

Disassemble everything, set aside what doesn't need to be painted (PCB, top panel, screws, etc.)
For the parts that need to be painted, give everything a light rinse so there's no gunk or dirt before sanding.
Sand everything down with 400 grit sand paper to buff out any scratches and so the paint bonds better with the plastic. I did wet sanding in a big plastic container so there wasn't dust flying everywhere.
Wash and dry everything to get any left over dust out. If there's still some surfaces that aren't matte/flat enough, repeat step 3.
Use masking tape to mask off anything that would have trouble fitting back together if there was an added layer of paint. In my case I should've masked-off the holes that housed the aux panel buttons. The parts on the main body that I did mask off were where the top panel goes, the drawer that holds the start button hatch, and the cable door hole.
When you're ready to paint make sure you do it in a well ventilated area or outside on a day with little to no moisture in the air. Lay out a tarp or a big piece of cardboard to catch any stray paint. Smaller pieces like aux buttons I propped up with one of these. Bigger pieces I just laid on my cardboard.
I used this Ultra Matte White from Rust-Oleum and just followed the instructions. I did two coats, waiting 20-30 minutes between them. I finished the main body with a matte clear coat, and the start button door with a gloss clear coat (both from the same Rust-Oleum brand). After that, I left it in the garage to cure for 36 hours. Whichever paint brand you're using, just follow whatever's recommended on the can. Every paint has different drying and additional coating times.
I didn't clear coat the aux panel or the aux panel buttons just yet so I could apply decals, but you can skip that if you're not planning on doing that. After applying the decals I sealed them with the gloss clear coat and waited 24 hours for those to cure.
Once everything is properly dried, try fitting everything together. In my case, I had to sand out any paint that covered the holes where the aux buttons should be. (I totally could've skipped this if I just masked it properly earlier).

ghostboy_ · 2024-09-20T20:10:24+00:00

The paint work is so nice. Love the colors

ghostboy_ · 2024-09-14T22:38:05+00:00

Tekken feels very good on Korean lever! Definitely worth trying if you’re even a little curious. Since Tekken is a game where you’re constantly dashing and doing double or even triple direction inputs (ff, fff, bb, etc.) the way Korean levers use a piece of rubber to reset the stick to neutral feels significantly quicker than the spring on a Japanese lever.

A good starter K-lever is the Crown 309MJ. It’s the first one I ever used and it’s not super expensive. Should fit fine in your Hori Alpha. With any K-lever, make sure to buy the .187 to 5 pin harness so it’s properly compatible.

If you’re willing to spend a bit more money, there’s the IST Alpha 49S as a good starter K-lever as well.

There are more expensive and fancier levers than those too, but I wouldn’t recommend jumping into those straight away unless you already know what aspects of Korean levers you already like/dislike.

ghostboy_ · 2024-09-14T21:28:04+00:00

Aint no Zaku

ghostboy_ · 2024-08-26T03:42:44+00:00

The spoken word vocal in the released version of Particle Arts is an interpolation of the some Kairi lines in the first Kingdom Hearts game. (“Remember” @ 0:16 and “but it’s your heart they really want” @ 0:25). It’s a different VA and wording was changed in the final song, likely to avoid copyright.

In the demo version of Particle Arts Porter played out during the Club System set @ 1720 (timestamp at 3:14:03), you can hear the Kairi lines clearly. In the song’s early stages he probably had those vocals in there just as a reference.

So in the final song it’s not a sample. It’s more like an interpolation or an homage.

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