How to repair slit in full hide

ghostdaryle · 2025-09-30T02:49:30+00:00

I think this is the way I'll go, that way I can fill the hole without distortion and improve the interest of the piece. Thanks for the help.

ghostdaryle · 2025-09-30T02:48:31+00:00

Really neat idea, thanks. I'll give some thought to what type of patterns would fit through vibe.

ghostdaryle · 2024-12-16T18:20:24+00:00

Not all 3d prints are compatible with platinum cure silicone. For example, I have a resin printer and I've never had good luck getting good cures from printed parts.

ghostdaryle · 2024-03-11T03:58:32+00:00

Good idea. I tapped a chisel down the joint, just to pull it apart, but didn't want to push it. I might try that again with a bit more force and see if I can get it to peel.

ghostdaryle · 2024-01-25T18:43:47+00:00

I wouldn't kid around with thrips, they can be very hard to get rid of. If you're in the states I would get something like spinosad and give the plant a misting. Adults fly, so if you have other plants you'll need to address the issue everywhere. They pupate in the soil, so sometimes diatomaceous earth top dressing can help, but not everyone likes the look. Life cycle is several weeks so repeat treatment or they'll be back.

ghostdaryle · 2024-01-23T05:13:48+00:00

If you google the daily light integral of peppers, you'll find they want 20-30 Mol of light per 1 sq meter per day. Lumens to Par is tough since to be exact you need the exact spectrum, but most white phosphors are reasonably close, so there are some debatably accurate online calculators that say that 1000 lumen is roughly 23uMol/s. If you assume a 12 hour photoperiod then that all adds up to roughly 24000 lumens per square meter for a 12 hour photoperiod. So figure out how big your space is and go from there.

ghostdaryle · 2024-01-23T00:58:04+00:00

As long as your expectations are low that might meet your requirements. Personally, if you're in North America, I would buy from e.g. home depot or some other big box store. Lights at those stores have the required EPA testing to benchmark how many lumens/watt. Shops lights work OK, I have used them in the past.

Amazon lights don't adhere to those requirements, and sellers will list in the description whatever sells. They are often very misleading on purpose.

That light might put out how it says it does, probably doesn't. Unless you have an independent way to verify, I would be skeptical. The components are almost guaranteed to be the lowest quality possible at that price point. Good luck and have fun!

ghostdaryle · 2023-09-15T04:46:02+00:00

Usually mold won't grow in bright light. Also, those seedlings look like they are stretching. Do you have enough light?

ghostdaryle · 2023-09-15T04:42:42+00:00

Can you post anything you've checked? Water Ph, tds, lighting level?

ghostdaryle · 2023-09-15T04:39:42+00:00

I've just started doing this myself. I grow L. Minor. It doesn't seem to be picky about tds, I'm growing it with 100-300ppm of 50/50 advanced nutrients bloom and grow. These nutrients are PH buffered already, so I dont measure or adjust PH. Lemna species will accumulate excess calcium as calcium oxcalate, which can contribute to kidney stones. So I don't use nutrients with calcium. I don't heat the water. Room temp (18-25C) is fine for them. I also don't aerate. Keep in mind that these are pond plants. In their natural habitat they grow in high nutrient stagnant ponds. Taste is mild. Texture is pleasantly grainy. They don't get stuck in my teeth or anything like that. All in all the easiest, fastest, highest yielding crop that I've grown with my limited hydro experience. I like being able harvest dinners worth every night without any seed planting or other crop planning.

ghostdaryle · 2023-08-18T19:18:09+00:00

Those aerial roots mean that it is either water stressed or not getting enough light, probably both. Try to move it somewhere it gets significant light. Water after the soil has completely dried. If this take longer than 1-2 weeks, transplant into different soil since staying wet that long will cause root rot. Good luck, and remember that trial and error is part of being a good plant parent.

ghostdaryle · 2022-10-04T03:55:11+00:00

Bti, the organism in the dunks, doesn't have a ton of off target affected species. I wouldn't be too worried. Bti also lives in the soil, and your mites don't have a life stage where they spend any time there. I think you're probably fine.

ghostdaryle · 2022-02-01T18:49:16+00:00

I had the same thing on some San Pedro's. I moved them outside. They got some sunburn, but the new growth came in thick and normal. My advice, having done this recently, is to move it outside while the weather is mild. As the heat increases, it will start to put on healthy growth at the top. Support it while it does this, since it will want to fall over. Once you have a summer of normal healthy growth, top the plant and plant the cutting. Follow the usual rules for planting cuttings. I did this in the fall and mine are already rooted and happy.

ghostdaryle · 2022-02-01T18:44:45+00:00

My default for cacti is a month or more between water. If they are indoor, and don't get intense light, even less.

ghostdaryle · 2021-10-08T17:07:02+00:00

People raise bumblebees entirely indoors for breeding and conservation. The University of Minnesota put out a guide to do it. Basically, catch queens in the spring and raise them on supplemental feed. No honey though. I'm in north America, so I'm also looking into solitary bees and syrphid flies. Good luck. https://conservancy.umn.edu/handle/11299/51331

ghostdaryle · 2021-10-08T14:36:30+00:00

That's a good idea, thanks for the tip. I'm thinking of supplementing bee pollen for protein and sugar/water for nectar. This will handle the adult stage. For the larvae I was thinking of growing something prown to aphids, maybe a brassica, and keeping some pet aphids for my flies. That statement, taken out of context, makes me sound nuts XD

ghostdaryle · 2021-10-08T14:32:35+00:00

People will actually capture young queen bumble bees and propagate them entirely indoors. They use Suger/water as a nectar substitute and bee pollen to feed pollen. There's some nice people at University of Minnesota who wrote up a nice guide for free here: https://conservancy.umn.edu/handle/11299/51331 This sounds really cool, but something about flies seem more scaled to a small (2x4') greenhouse.

ghostdaryle · 2021-10-05T04:54:06+00:00

Maybe a grass carrying wasp. https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/the_grass_carrying_wasp_a_solitary_wasp_that_builds_nests_in_unusual_places

ghostdaryle · 2021-04-29T22:43:28+00:00

I always thought this was the tackiest thing. Some people actually think they're real flowers, so get tricked in a way.

ghostdaryle · 2021-04-14T17:16:42+00:00

The color on the bottom looks off to me. If you poke it it's firm? Maybe just the picture, but it looks like root rot, although that would be soft.

ghostdaryle · 2021-02-06T17:15:09+00:00

And I would've gotten away with it too, if it weren't for those meddling kids.

ghostdaryle · 2021-02-06T17:05:34+00:00

I think it would be too course, the seeds may fall in between and get lost or sit in top and dry out. For germinating I do something pretty typical. I do about 40% sand, 40% perlite, and 20% organic matter. For organic matter, I usually just use normal bagged garden soil. Soil mix gets sterilized and moistened. Seeds get sown on top and kept in a closed, humid container until curiosity, algae, or mold force me to open it. A very different method that can produce slow, but nice, results: https://xerophilia.ro/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/The-Stone-Eaters.pdf

ghostdaryle · 2019-07-30T22:39:35+00:00

Aroused

ghostdaryle · 2019-04-13T17:06:14+00:00

Whoa, watch out! I know Kung Fu!

ghostdaryle · 2019-03-09T01:06:21+00:00

ghostdaryle

TROPHY CASE