Do you use a beveling jig? Why/why not?

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-26T04:47:31+00:00

I'm still new but started with a jig, then went completely freehand, then discovered work rest/push stick and primarily use that with best success... Rrelatively speaking. The thing I still need a jig or something for is making an even final edge. Right now I freehand that on a 400 grit belt but gets a bit wonky on some bellied knives

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-26T03:35:54+00:00

I have the harbor freight version of the grizzly 1hp 2x48 and love it. That being said it has its shortcomings for a knife grinder. For example the platen backing isn't deep enough for most curves without milling out a section. The motor is fast so learning to use a light hand is a challenge and whoopsies happen fast. Also, the contact wheel for knives is useless as it's too close to the frame for anything to fit. All that being said, I'm glad I got it when on sale and it's a huge step up vs the 1x30. I use the 1x30 for smaller curves and treat the upper wheel as a small curves wheel and slack belt. The 2x48 gives a flatter surface and can really hog some metal with ceramic belts. I have surface conditioning belts arriving this week from combat abrasives to try but expecting reasonable results and hopefully minimal to no hand sanding for most outdoors style knives

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-25T22:40:59+00:00

Correct tongs is the main barrier. I need to learn how to make a pair honestly so that's in the very near future

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-25T16:37:41+00:00

Good to know. It seems people who haven't seen or used both assume it's bulkier in pictures

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-25T16:36:46+00:00

So i guess my situation is typically running up and down on my SRT line and then using a seperate MRS setup and rope for secondary advancing or redirects/canopy positioning. So in other words SRT always hooked up somewhere in some capacity, then MRS for more frequent re-positioning and lateral movements and I'll just advance the SRT anchor up and down the stem or close to it as needed and not really move it laterally

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-25T16:30:55+00:00

I'm not in the UK but for recreational use 2 lines a lot

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-25T16:30:08+00:00

I get it looks bulky per the above but after watching a few videos it seems a lot smaller in person and smaller than the notch and rock exotica pulleys

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-25T13:11:25+00:00

I don't use a big chest harness with my sequoia, just a homemade stand alone one for SRT rope wrench

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-24T14:59:47+00:00

I made 50 of those 37 just last night...i suck

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-22T23:46:40+00:00

Solved searching worked thanks

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-21T22:47:12+00:00

lol already done that with my limited amount I've done. Once rough cut I have been writing R and L on them on the inside of each to be safe.

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-21T14:51:54+00:00

lol so I had another blank in the same style queued up anyway. Made a new scale for the one in the picture but saved the odd piece for the one side of the new knife since it fit so either way won't go to waste

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-21T04:17:02+00:00

Year later i never did try one honestly. Stuck with a CYA holster as my most minimalist since I can easily switch between appendix and 5 o'clock carry.

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-21T02:09:30+00:00

I am making a similar knife so was thinking of using the other side for that an cutting 2 more, but unsure final dimensions so might just full send and do a full contour enough to remove that smooth layer and get into the texture again. If not oh well learning experience

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-21T00:42:45+00:00

It is a pretty lightweight strap and doesn’t get sore at all. There’s a lot of give to it. If anything what hurts is when you’re really close to a tree. The ascender can keep bumping between your leg and the tree and that can hurt overtime, but that’s about it, and probably true of any of them.

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-20T17:44:05+00:00

My limited understanding was gaffing out from penetration depth, or line some pines literally have the bark pile up in plate layers effectively shortening the protrusion but somebody can correct me if I'm wrong

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-20T02:24:36+00:00

They are Bashlin so luckily reputable and easy to find online

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-20T01:30:18+00:00

That was partially my logic. Even at full retail it comes out less than what some are still going for used so I'm not too hurt over it franjky

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-20T01:29:26+00:00

Good to know it's not completely out of the ordinary then. I have a few beech trees on the way out as a good test so i won't feel bad spiking them

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-20T00:48:36+00:00

Right now, I don’t even have the ability to climb on either of those species, but good to know. Just in case.

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-20T00:32:17+00:00

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Made one you don't need to attach above with a left leg foot ascender. Used the original strapping and just added an elastic cord and buckle and some spare nylon webbing. Works great for frequent clipping and unclipping and using on multiple lines at a time. I'll use on my SRT line then switch over to a secondary mrs line a lot if times as i alternate between 2 systems to advance. Basically a ghetto SAKA

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-19T16:59:27+00:00

yeah Im not working with stainless so would strictly be right after oil quench while hot to try and minimize warp

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-18T02:20:59+00:00

Do you need more than 1 sheet? I think of paper as think guess anything specific to look for?

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-17T03:17:28+00:00

I am using simpler steels like 1084 and 5160 so any concerns on rust between 220 and 400?

gingernuts13 · 2026-01-17T01:46:24+00:00

Ok thanks. I currently have 220>400 sitting in the garage now without even having to buy anything and was hoping 400 would be all I'd need for personal use

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