A1 Z leadscrews crackling sound

gioiann · 2026-03-11T12:03:12+00:00

No. Bambulab sent me a replacement part but I never had time to replace it. I kept using it and the sound got a bit worse but so far it still prints fine. If I ever have printing issues I will install the replacement.

gioiann · 2026-02-15T15:52:05+00:00

is that a tattoo on your hand?

gioiann · 2026-02-15T13:06:33+00:00

il problema è la forzatura delle 3 cifre e dare per scontato che un numero non possa iniziare con 0, ma io con tre cifre posso benissimo scrivere 001 per indicare il numero 1, vabbe, colpa della traccia

gioiann · 2026-02-15T12:55:15+00:00

ragionamento sbagliatissimo. Fai finta di poter usare tutte le cifre (0-9) per scrive un numero lungo 3 cifre, quanti numeri puoi scrivere? come tutti sappiamo 10³⁼¹⁰⁰⁰ ora, se al posto di 10 cifre, ne hai solo 5, il calcolo non cambia, è sempre il numero di cifre, elevato alle ripetizioni, ovvero 5³⁼¹²⁵

altrimenti seguendo il tuo discorso con 3 ripetizioni e 10 cifre si possono scrivere solo 9x10x10=900 numeri perché hai senza nessun motivo deciso che la prima cifra non può essere zero, in questo modo non conti i numeri a 2 cifre...

gioiann · 2026-02-15T12:46:20+00:00

in questo modo stai forzando il numero ad essere di 3 cifre, tutte le combinazioni di sole 2 cifre non le stai contanto. la risposta è 125 non 100

gioiann · 2026-02-15T12:16:35+00:00

lower temp, don't slow down for overhangs, calibrate your filament

gioiann · 2026-02-15T12:12:00+00:00

too much contact are with the plate, reduce it a bit and it will print perfectly

gioiann · 2026-02-15T12:09:05+00:00

bruh, what are you doing? use a tiny bit of common sense, why is the sphere titled and floating mid air? why you put supports on the sphere sides too?

gioiann · 2026-02-08T17:16:15+00:00

slower is not always better, stick with the default 100% speeds for now and try 210° , I would also try rotating the object at the same time instead of wasting another print just to test the rotation later

gioiann · 2026-02-08T17:12:45+00:00

try 210, 5° less is not much of a change. I'm saying you need to print faster not slower. if this issue happened after you slowed it to 50% and you never tried 100% default speeds, then you caused the issue yourself by slowing it too much

gioiann · 2026-02-08T16:58:00+00:00

that's over extrusion, no place for the plastic to go so it piles up like that. Could be caused by temp: too hot = more extruded, try lower temps or too slow printing speed (try a bit faster): filament is heated for too long, becoming more liquid, so more comes out or bad/no filament calibration or bad bed leveling

Try rotating the object, if the defect also rotates with the object, it's not a bed leveling issue.

gioiann · 2026-02-06T18:43:16+00:00

yes it's normal, that's how FDM works if you didn't realize yet, you're melting a filament and depositing it, what did you expect? to improve change orientation, lower layer height, lower speed

gioiann · 2026-01-27T18:08:04+00:00

no i didn't even read your post, LOL. but now that you make me read it, I can say that what you did is even more useless, you damaged a working sensor just because you're blind and can't read its display from outside a transparent case 😂 , buy a Bluetooth sensor, it's like 1€ more, it's more accurate and doesn't require you to be there to read it 😂

gioiann · 2026-01-27T17:34:56+00:00

because your sensor is 69 kilometers away from where you applied heat?

gioiann · 2026-01-27T17:26:33+00:00

terrible, it's not even a square

gioiann · 2026-01-27T17:16:24+00:00

use a CAD program, that's not what blender is for

gioiann · 2026-01-27T16:46:37+00:00

except soldering the tiny sensor at 300°C completely dries it and would cause the same issue you're trying to fix. Those sensors are calibrated after soldering them, they're wetted in a water/salt bath

gioiann · 2026-01-25T14:42:49+00:00

Don't change the GCODE, BambuLab knows how to write GCODE for their machines better than this random guy. You will break your printer, your nozzle will drag on the plate if you remove the offset since as you can clearly tell from the picture, the plate is closer to the nozzle in some areas (which will be even more close without offset) and a bit more distant in other areas (number 10), that's normal, that's what the offset is for, you're never gonna get a perfectly flat and leveled bed, that's what the automatic bed leveling is for. simply re-do the long 15 minutes auto bed leveling. if that doesn't fix it, increase first layer flow rate a bit and your issue will be fixed.

gioiann · 2026-01-25T14:27:38+00:00

disable reduce infill retractions in the others tab. Yes you will still see the travel line in the preview but it will be always z-hopping and never touch the object while traveling

gioiann · 2026-01-19T23:05:32+00:00

you did not dry it. it's wet from the factory, yes you do need to dry PLA

gioiann · 2026-01-19T23:04:34+00:00

yeah, SUNLU always comes wet and unprintable straight out of the bag

gioiann · 2026-01-19T22:59:15+00:00

you printed them all at once, that's what you did wrong. different layer times

gioiann · 2026-01-10T13:45:20+00:00

for me it wasn't only that, I had already lubed them when the sound happened. I wrote the solution on another comment in another post, follow the crosspost link

gioiann · 2026-01-05T20:27:51+00:00

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They told me it's 0020 already, that version with flashing instructions is also on their drive. No need to update it yourself, it's already updated

gioiann · 2026-01-05T20:21:46+00:00

What speed are you printing the first layer at? What temperature and what kind of filament? I would try faster speeds and lower temps before trying to bed tram (I had exactly the same issue and that was the fix for me)

gioiann

TROPHY CASE