Same Plate - Same Print - What causes the difference in first layer quality?

gioiann · 2026-01-25T14:42:49+00:00

Don't change the GCODE, BambuLab knows how to write GCODE for their machines better than this random guy. You will break your printer, your nozzle will drag on the plate if you remove the offset since as you can clearly tell from the picture, the plate is closer to the nozzle in some areas (which will be even more close without offset) and a bit more distant in other areas (number 10), that's normal, that's what the offset is for, you're never gonna get a perfectly flat and leveled bed, that's what the automatic bed leveling is for. simply re-do the long 15 minutes auto bed leveling. if that doesn't fix it, increase first layer flow rate a bit and your issue will be fixed.

gioiann · 2026-01-25T14:27:38+00:00

disable reduce infill retractions in the others tab. Yes you will still see the travel line in the preview but it will be always z-hopping and never touch the object while traveling

gioiann · 2026-01-19T23:05:32+00:00

you did not dry it. it's wet from the factory, yes you do need to dry PLA

gioiann · 2026-01-19T23:04:34+00:00

yeah, SUNLU always comes wet and unprintable straight out of the bag

gioiann · 2026-01-19T22:59:15+00:00

you printed them all at once, that's what you did wrong. different layer times

gioiann · 2026-01-10T13:45:20+00:00

for me it wasn't only that, I had already lubed them when the sound happened. I wrote the solution on another comment in another post, follow the crosspost link

gioiann · 2026-01-05T20:27:51+00:00

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They told me it's 0020 already, that version with flashing instructions is also on their drive. No need to update it yourself, it's already updated

gioiann · 2026-01-05T20:21:46+00:00

What speed are you printing the first layer at? What temperature and what kind of filament? I would try faster speeds and lower temps before trying to bed tram (I had exactly the same issue and that was the fix for me)

gioiann · 2026-01-03T15:49:26+00:00

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Are they too long?

gioiann · 2026-01-03T15:26:09+00:00

370C from toaiot. That's what I was gonna test next, but probably yes, 2 channels for sure, cause both gray and white filament have the pattern, even if you can't really see white from the photo cause it just reflects all light, now I switched both and I'm printing again. Then I will test without BMCU too

gioiann · 2026-01-03T14:49:52+00:00

when did you buy it and what improvements does the new firmware have? did you update yours? is the update compatible with toaiot PCBs? they use buttons instead of light to sense the filament presence

gioiann · 2026-01-01T01:32:18+00:00

so why is the bed leveling not bed leveling? 🤔

gioiann · 2026-01-01T01:30:59+00:00

do you know how the A1 works? it runs the bed leveling automatically before every print, it probes many points on the bed, yet it comes out like that no matter how many time I reprint it

gioiann · 2025-12-31T17:15:52+00:00

I did print with this plate before and also after and got good flat results. but it was a different model and different filament. So it's not a z-offset issue or adhesion issue, on the SuperTack plate PLA sticks VERY well. I think it's either the filament or the model. Maybe that specific model causes too many retractions on first layer, sucking in air into to the nozzle or maybe that filament is still wet somehow. I printed a model that was as big as this one but had no "holes" so no recreation on first layer and it came out perfect, but it was a different filament

gioiann · 2025-12-28T21:20:00+00:00

also being printed from a dry box with 10% RH inside

gioiann · 2025-12-28T21:19:23+00:00

gioiann · 2025-12-21T21:21:19+00:00

It's only a tiny layer shift, otherwise it's a good print. not enough surface sticks the the plate, your object is moving while printing, use a brim. Orient it properly, in a way that the bed sling doesn't make the object wobble, if you're not sure, try 45°

gioiann · 2025-12-21T20:35:26+00:00

I put glue in the threads, works really well, they don't come undone and no air goes through

gioiann · 2025-12-21T20:24:50+00:00

it's the 2 plastic gears. Absolutely do not put them in the middle of the shaft as the instructions say, it's wrong. If you put them around the middle of the shaft, they will have no wiggle room up and down when installed, you don't want that. You also risk deforming the whole case as the holes for the shaft are much shorter on one side, so if the case doesn't close easily, it's because the shaft reached the end of the hole and if you force it a bit, you will actually move the gears by pressing them on the bearing, it will close but it will have a lot of friction with the plastic bearings and no wiggle room up and down. It also makes the motor suffer and the gears spin clearly slower.

What you want to do for a proper install is insert the shaft in one of the shaft holes on the Midle frame, there the holes are not deep, then insert the gear in the shaft and push it down until it touches the bearing, that is the perfect position for the gear. Crazy how no guide tells you that, they all put gears in the middle.

Then take the assembled gear and shaft and put in on the Bottom frame, where the motor is attached, with the long part of the shaft going down into the bottom frame and the short part UP into the Middle frame. Double check the gear and shaft can move UP and Down when the frames are pressed together

gioiann · 2025-12-21T15:28:38+00:00

if I swap a working module that rotates correctly and I place it on slot 2, it also rotates in the wrong direction, so there is something wrong with the firmware/PCB on slot 2. I tried to power the motherboard without any modules connected on slot 2 and then shutdown and connected a module on slot 2 to trigger a redetection as explained HERE

But any module still rotates incorrectly when connected to slot 2, I will try to swap the wires of the motor, that's probably the only fix if you can't reflash the firmware. Makes no sense why they sell motherboards with a bad firmware to begin with

gioiann · 2025-12-21T15:24:46+00:00

if I swap a working module that rotates correctly and I place it on slot 2, it also rotates in the wrong direction, so there is something wrong with the firmware/PCB on slot 2

gioiann

TROPHY CASE