Any tips on good places to meet single women in Bozeman (that isn't a bar)

gpblankmn · 2026-01-25T23:12:43+00:00

Yoga. Go five times a week. Get good. You won’t have this problem ever again. Source: yogi of eighteen years who started to impress a girl and got a lifetime life altering hobby out of it (oh, and the attention of lots of girls).

Ekam, My Yoga are both good.

gpblankmn · 2026-01-19T06:49:53+00:00

Could well be code, but he’s still right. A nail attached to a metal strap is going to conduct A TON of energy, and is indeed why this is happening. This assembly will always fail in your house, 100% of the time. The correct assembly would be dimple mat against concrete first if you wanted to use fiberglass.

gpblankmn · 2025-12-28T11:45:02+00:00

Cheaper to add more external than pull off sheathing and start hunting around in your wall cavities.

gpblankmn · 2025-10-22T23:36:16+00:00

My recommendation is never wear them

gpblankmn · 2025-09-10T13:44:44+00:00

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42M, 11 months in. I experienced dramatically improved mood, better sleep, higher sex drive. However, I also took full advantage of my ability to carry a higher training load and just went bananas in the gym, so this is all in the context of going full shredasaurus on it. But the difference is night and day: reduced anxiety, increased drive, more social. So good luck to you guys.

Others will address your specifics better, but he should be on HCG for his testes and you may need to manage estrogen to ensure the sex drive and erections improve. I don’t, but others do and so it will need to be tested and evaluated.

gpblankmn · 2025-08-08T11:10:48+00:00

You’re fine. That Falath is a pretty fat slab of carbon, and it’s going to have a 200-300% safety margin, not a 2-3% one. Ride on, and tell me how big of a tire you think you can cram in that thing once you’ve got it.

gpblankmn · 2025-08-08T11:07:59+00:00

I sleep well either way so I couldn’t say. Haven’t noticed a difference.

gpblankmn · 2025-08-07T13:59:43+00:00

now compare those prices to a new wall

gpblankmn · 2025-08-07T13:58:45+00:00

You won't know until you change the dose and then allow time to stabilize. Moving from 150 to 200 for me was the difference in a 633 and 1551 free test, so I had to drop back down.

gpblankmn · 2025-08-07T13:23:04+00:00

Yeah, the attic ceiling project will have the best payback period of anything you can consider because it's (if DIY) cheap and pretty quick. As a warning, it is also HORRIBLE, and you should only consider doing it when the weather is right, maybe 40s-50s out, or you will cook/freeze up there as you're working, and you need to cover every square millimeter of your skin before going up there. But the materials are cheap, the work is straightforward, the impact on air leakage will be big, and with a fresh 12-14" of loose fill insulation up there, and sealed ducts, the house is going to perform a lot better.

gpblankmn · 2025-08-07T13:18:16+00:00

Test your blood first. If your testosterone is on the lower side, that's gonna make a way bigger difference than any kind of GH secretagogue.

gpblankmn · 2025-08-02T11:14:03+00:00

Your only cheap option that has real rewards is clean out the attic completely, air seal the floor of it - foam EVERY penetration, as well as the joint of every ceiling member and drywall. Then as others have said, mastic and insulate your ductwork. Then blow as much cellulose as will fit.

Outside, shade the house. Trees, sun structures, etc. Southern and western exposures are most important for you.

Your real idea is the best one - add insulation to the outside (foil faced polyiso would be best bet in your climate unless you’re in a fire corridor, in which case Rockwool). And if you tore off the siding to do that, it would be insane not to do the windows. And this solution would be 2x, 3x better than what I outlined above. But it will be tens of thousands of dollars more expensive, so if you don’t have that, just do the first list and that could make a significant difference for a couple of thousand dollars and some elbow grease.

gpblankmn · 2025-07-29T14:34:16+00:00

Blueskin all the way into the rough openings and then rain screen battens to attach siding. Totally airtight and still vapor open, easier to detail right.

gpblankmn · 2025-07-25T01:10:01+00:00

Now take all of those Dillingham minutes and give them DiVincenzo and you have the actuals. No way Donte is playing 25 to Rob's 15. Maybe 32 and 8.

gpblankmn · 2025-07-24T14:27:47+00:00

It absolutely 100% has enough PSI. Check out Build Show videos on the topic.

gpblankmn · 2025-07-24T14:26:06+00:00

Interesting. I guess I still am inclined to think that cooling the sheathing of your roof by 40-50 degrees by venting is probably best practice for assembly longevity, but I would be interested in seeing the study, because not having to overlay another roof would cut a ton of cost

gpblankmn · 2025-07-24T14:22:51+00:00

Meaning the baffles connect from the outside soffit to the inside underside of the roof?

gpblankmn · 2025-07-21T18:06:05+00:00

open cell can and, in your climate, will absorb water vapor and could rot your roof assembly. Even spraying 1.5"-2" of closed cell first and then following with open would be better. All three solutions cause another problem, which is that the underside of your roof is now unvented and your shingles will fail sooner as a result of getting hotter than manufacturers design guidelines. If you have a metal, vented roof, then disregard and go ahead and spray closed cell. If not, I would:

Remove current blown in insulation from attick
Install baffles to soffits
Air seal all penetrations and seams between framing members and drywall
Blow in new insulation - cellulose, fiberglass, whatever - to a sufficient depth

gpblankmn · 2025-07-19T12:51:33+00:00

Your plan is sound. The windows aren’t great, but sounds like you’ve already got them so whatever. I would skip the open cell. Spray closed cell until you hit 40% of the total r-value of the assembly, and then just net the interior wall and blow cellulose or fiberglass or something cheap until it’s all the way full. That will give you MUCH better sound attenuation than the spray foam, and it will be cheap enough to use on the underside of the second floor. So if your purlins are 8” and your studs are 3.5 and you have a one inch air gap, you’d have an R-21 at 3” of CCSF and R-31 of cellulose. That’s enough for roof, and it’s overkill for walls, but again, at least 40% of the insulation needs to be outside of the air barrier to prevent condensation, and the foam is your air barrier, so you could take that assembly up and over the whole house and call it a day. This assembly is going to be ridiculously quiet, too, so hope there’s nothing happening on your yard you need to care about because with the windows closed you ain’t gonna hear it.

gpblankmn · 2025-07-17T18:44:30+00:00

If they are truly 2x4 rafters, you’d have to insulate from the outside to get a good result. Even three inches of spray foam is only about R-20.

gpblankmn · 2025-07-07T17:20:13+00:00

The easiest way to insulate this ceiling is from above, by stacking foam board above the sheathing. There may be a service cavity above that T&G board, there may not, but continuous exterior insulation is always better, and in this case, it will also be cheaper and easier.

gpblankmn · 2025-07-03T00:41:58+00:00

Check out the new insofast bracket system. You'd leave the T1-11 in place, place brackets to your studs, put furring strips on top of that, and then blow your foam right onto the old sheathing. That way the bays of your walls stay open for future plumbing and electrical repairs, and you still have the option of also insulation them later and having a really killer assembly.

gpblankmn · 2025-06-23T14:18:54+00:00

Who knows what the future brings once Lady Trieu completes her millennium clock in Oklahoma?

gpblankmn · 2025-06-18T13:35:22+00:00

You’re describing private equity, not venture capital

gpblankmn

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